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Old 03-19-2015, 12:12 AM   #15
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oh nice. But now i'm just wonder if the Audio Control LC6i is gonna work with the 2015 non BA system...
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:22 AM   #16
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oh nice. But now i'm just wonder if the Audio Control LC6i is gonna work with the 2015 non BA system...
It should. Because the only purpose of an audio processor is to convert speaker wires into RCA and pre-amp the lines.

It electronically makes sense to me now, but if you are still concerned wait until Friday when I do the install and post the write up on it.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:42 AM   #17
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Livewire195 glad you made this post today because i was just about to ask the same questions relating to the non-BA amplifier and adding the other 2 amps. What amps are you gonna be installing ?
There's no amp on non-BA systems. For the BA premium system equipped camaros, the amp is located in the trunk by the driver's side tail light. All the wiring from the head unit is routed back there for the amp. Not sure if the wiring would still be routed back there for the non-BA systems. You may have to do all your wiring at the head unit.
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:41 PM   #18
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The night before the audio storm...



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Old 03-21-2015, 06:31 PM   #19
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So I ended up not amping my speakers, because I did not want to cut my factory wire harness.

I used the rear speaker lines to input into the AudioControl LC6i and used the RCA outputs to give the sub sound. For the remote line, I tapped into the center console cigarette lighter, and ran that to the back of the car.

All in all, everything came out pretty clean after all the work.

Final Note: Do not buy the Crutchfield speaker adapters, they do not fit in the 2014 stock wiring.








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Old 03-21-2015, 09:16 PM   #20
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Thanks for this, I plan to use the LC6i as well, plus speaker upgrades and my 2 ARC Audio amps on my Z, so this was a timely thread. I know you decided not to cut the factory harness, but can you tell me if the wires are easily accessible once the head unit is out?

One other question, any reason why you didn't use the remote output of the LC6i? It auto senses power based on the speaker input and activates the remote output for you, I believe.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:07 PM   #21
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Thanks for this, I plan to use the LC6i as well, plus speaker upgrades and my 2 ARC Audio amps on my Z, so this was a timely thread. I know you decided not to cut the factory harness, but can you tell me if the wires are easily accessible once the head unit is out?
I watched a few videos with the head unit removal, and didn't take mine out only because it appears in the videos you have a good eight to ten inches max to splice into. Knowing myself, I will put a dash kit in, and will need to use the factory lines to plug into. That being said, knowing the lines would be slightly altered, and possible audio connection being weakened I opted not to do it.

When I get the dash kit, I'm going to run wires from the back of the car to the new wire harness which I'll cut, and solder the connection leaving the factory harness unaffected.

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One other question, any reason why you didn't use the remote output of the LC6i? It auto senses power based on the speaker input and activates the remote output for you, I believe.
Are you referring to using plugging in speaker input from Channel 2 on the unit and plugging the RCAs into Channel 3 Output?
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:18 AM   #22
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Are you referring to using plugging in speaker input from Channel 2 on the unit and plugging the RCAs into Channel 3 Output?
No, on the plug where the power and ground go, there is a Remote Out. I'm wondering why you didn't use that to turn on the sub amp instead of running a wire to the cigarette wire in front.

Which dash kit are you getting by the way?
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Old 03-22-2015, 01:37 PM   #23
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No, on the plug where the power and ground go, there is a Remote Out. I'm wondering why you didn't use that to turn on the sub amp instead of running a wire to the cigarette wire in front.

You still need a remote in for the LC6i to turn on. Think of it as another amp in your car. It is off by default, and turns on once your accessory line is live.

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Which dash kit are you getting by the way?
I'm thinking I'm going to go with the Scoche. I like the LCD screen, and only thing I see wrong with them is the Key Fob distance shorten.
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Old 03-22-2015, 01:47 PM   #24
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You still need a remote in for the LC6i to turn on. Think of it as another amp in your car. It is off by default, and turns on once your accessory line is live.
Oh wait, I see what your saying now. Hmmm well could of saved myself the headache running that line under the carpet / seats haha.

Guess I'm set for when i have a third party headunit then! haha
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:31 AM   #25
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2 amps running off the stock head unit? That's crazy talk!

Sorry I missed this thread earlier.

If you want to power the door speakers, without cutting the factory harness (great idea!), do what I did. Either buy a scosche harness that is already wired, or buy scosche GM19B and 021GM19RB plugs, and solder them together yourself.

The harness plugs into the back of the radio, and sends the front speaker signals down the passenger side of the car to both amps. This is a high-level signal; and my amps take this without problems. If your amps require low-level, then use a LOC to convert the signal.

The front speaker output then goes up the center of the car, and plugs into the factory harness, where it then goes out to the door speakers. Use the blue wire with white stripe to turn on the amp with the radio. I run a separate turn-on wire, through a switch to the trunk sub. This way I can choose to have music with or without the sub, and it also allows me to turn off the sub before turning off the car; which prevents a huge pop from the sub.
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:47 AM   #26
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Audiocontrol products rock
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:17 PM   #27
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Audiocontrol products rock
Yeah man. I never heard of the company before, but I recommend them. The processor saved my cars life. So happy with bass now!
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