Power upgrade questions - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Nor Cal ZL1 · 04-02-2015, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drbormd

You gotta check out Josh Starkweather. He is in Turlock. He can answer any questions you have. He was just asked by a player on the San Fransisco 49ers to build a ZL1. He knows everything there is about these cars.. His shop is putting out some bad ass cars.

Josh Starkweather (209) 985-5603

Hey J, I see your car has passed through there. How do you like your new cam?
Some good builds are passing through Starkweathers shop.

JANNETTYRACING · 04-02-2015, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by angryBits

Thank you Ted, that is very helpful!

Will the Chevy Tech's know the difference between the ARP crank balancer bolt and the GM bolt or do they look identical? Just covering my bases

Your very welcome.

Maybe maybe not depends on they're experience.

If you put it back to stock for any reason you would use a GM bolt.

Ted.

hognutz · 04-02-2015, 12:39 PM

my .02 is save you stock bolt if you want to but it back to stock to the dealer.

The stock bolt is black many of the OE cranck bolts you buy are not. a good tech would catch this a nomal tech would not know.

The work is pretty easy you need a 3 jaw puller to remove which you can rent or ~$50 to buy. you can buy a installer tool to put it on or in pinch for $8 you can buy a longer bot from napa. you also could use allthread and nut and washer.

buy the ARP bolt IMO. I did the oe bolt on mine and the torque to yeild just blows IMO. on my buddies I did the arp much easier gig. you just torque to value and are done.

ZO6 Bryan · 04-02-2015, 01:57 PM

Stock bolt is silver in color, not black, and is not to be reused. You'll have to buy a new GM bolt. But don't throw the old one away. You use the old bolt to seat the damper, then remove it and torque the new bolt in place.

69ZLover · 04-02-2015, 02:27 PM

I asked about upgrades and the ramifications when I got mine. I was told an out of dealership computer tune voids you outright. No tune upgrades only affects the part it is bolted onto example is a CAI voids the mass airflow a pulley voids the belt. Yes it sounds odd to me but I will hit them up and get better clarification unless someone here knows the answer. A SC pulley change is attached to the SC! If someone over driven his SC and blew it up I would say NO warranty on the SC not the belt! Headers are attached to the heads etc etc. Once again I was told it only affects what it is attached too and was given those 2 examples.

Let's face it; in writing it says something along the lines of if it can be determined that the part caused a failure the warranty is no good. And we all know that every part in an engine has an effect on the engine and when one thing goes it has a negative affect on everything so it's all in the English of the cause. So you better go to the dealership to have your spark plugs changed or your transmission will be void "Sarcasm"

Personally if you do things right and stay within physics of the components you should have a very good running car with years of fun ahead of you. Chevy built a great engine that does have expansion room in it. Piss poor planning and abuse on the owners side is not Chevy's problem!

69ZLover · 04-02-2015, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan

Stock bolt is silver in color, not black, and is not to be reused. You'll have to buy a new GM bolt. But don't throw the old one away. You use the old bolt to seat the damper, then remove it and torque the new bolt in place.

Good advice!

angryBits · 04-02-2015, 04:05 PM

I have read that burden of proof falls on GM. In other words, if there is a failure, GM must prove that the failure was caused by the owner's modification.

While this may be true, I'm sure GM lawyers have this down to a science.

My preference is to avoid a tune if I can. This way I can revert everything back to stock and they will have that much more trouble proving what was done.

However I'm concerned that the computer will log boost levels. If the logs indicate the car was pulling more than spec level boost, then that may be irrefutable and unavoidable evidence that the car was tampered with.

If that is the case, then:
A) Don't touch anything but intake and exhaust.
OR
B) Don't expect to get your engine covered.

Having said that -- My 2011 Mustang GT had a tune and shortly after selling it, the next owner told me the engine blew up and Ford replaced the engine.

I think most car manufacturers these days will own up to a known issue, even if there were mods. As long as the mods didn't greatly exaggerate it I suppose :/

cal45 · 04-02-2015, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Our ZL-625 package is meant for those not ready to tune and allows you to upgrade down the road when you're ready, without having to replace the parts you already bought.

Our ZL-625 package basically includes a Roto-Fab intake system, VMAX Throttle body, 160* thermostat and an ATI balancer with 5% OD pulley along with an ARP balancer bolt. This kit does not require any fuel accelerant and can be used with regular pump gas.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call, PM or email me anytime!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Tyler - I already have the Roto-Fab, not looking for the VMAX TB or thermostat but am interested in the ATI balancer with 5% OD pulley along with an ARP balancer bolt. Can you PM me a price for those pls. Thx

Also, would this net me around 40RWHP w/o a tune?

04-02-2015, 12:39 PM	#17
hognutz Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: tangent or Posts: 2,985	my .02 is save you stock bolt if you want to but it back to stock to the dealer. The stock bolt is black many of the OE cranck bolts you buy are not. a good tech would catch this a nomal tech would not know. The work is pretty easy you need a 3 jaw puller to remove which you can rent or ~$50 to buy. you can buy a installer tool to put it on or in pinch for $8 you can buy a longer bot from napa. you also could use allthread and nut and washer. buy the ARP bolt IMO. I did the oe bolt on mine and the torque to yeild just blows IMO. on my buddies I did the arp much easier gig. you just torque to value and are done. __________________ 2016 2SS 2020 super duty on 37's

04-02-2015, 01:57 PM	#18
ZO6 Bryan Drives: 02 Z06, 95 Trans Am, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Southeast Posts: 1,838 View My Garage	Stock bolt is silver in color, not black, and is not to be reused. You'll have to buy a new GM bolt. But don't throw the old one away. You use the old bolt to seat the damper, then remove it and torque the new bolt in place. __________________ Bryan 2018 ZL1 M6

04-02-2015, 04:05 PM	#21
angryBits Drives: ZL1 1LE A10 Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: CA Posts: 1,093	I have read that burden of proof falls on GM. In other words, if there is a failure, GM must prove that the failure was caused by the owner's modification. While this may be true, I'm sure GM lawyers have this down to a science. My preference is to avoid a tune if I can. This way I can revert everything back to stock and they will have that much more trouble proving what was done. However I'm concerned that the computer will log boost levels. If the logs indicate the car was pulling more than spec level boost, then that may be irrefutable and unavoidable evidence that the car was tampered with. If that is the case, then: A) Don't touch anything but intake and exhaust. OR B) Don't expect to get your engine covered. Having said that -- My 2011 Mustang GT had a tune and shortly after selling it, the next owner told me the engine blew up and Ford replaced the engine. I think most car manufacturers these days will own up to a known issue, even if there were mods. As long as the mods didn't greatly exaggerate it I suppose :/ __________________ Current: 2019 ZL1 1LE A10 Mods: MPS4s Tires \| Borla Atak \| CF Steering Wheel Previous: 2018 ZL1 1LE M6 \| 2017 Z06 Z07 M7 \| 2017 GS A8 \| 2015 ZL1 M6 \| 2013 GT500

04-02-2015, 02:27 PM	#19
69ZLover Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Oregon Posts: 55	I asked about upgrades and the ramifications when I got mine. I was told an out of dealership computer tune voids you outright. No tune upgrades only affects the part it is bolted onto example is a CAI voids the mass airflow a pulley voids the belt. Yes it sounds odd to me but I will hit them up and get better clarification unless someone here knows the answer. A SC pulley change is attached to the SC! If someone over driven his SC and blew it up I would say NO warranty on the SC not the belt! Headers are attached to the heads etc etc. Once again I was told it only affects what it is attached too and was given those 2 examples. Let's face it; in writing it says something along the lines of if it can be determined that the part caused a failure the warranty is no good. And we all know that every part in an engine has an effect on the engine and when one thing goes it has a negative affect on everything so it's all in the English of the cause. So you better go to the dealership to have your spark plugs changed or your transmission will be void "Sarcasm" Personally if you do things right and stay within physics of the components you should have a very good running car with years of fun ahead of you. Chevy built a great engine that does have expansion room in it. Piss poor planning and abuse on the owners side is not Chevy's problem!