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#15 |
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H-Town Camaro Club
Drives: 2013 Dusk Edition 2SS/M6/Sun/NPP Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,234
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Check the photos again;
Dynamat the !#@$ out of the doors (do not lower the windows), put the silicone skin back on, then Dynaliner on top of that skin. Used remaining Dynaliner from under both front seats all the way back under rear seat. Come to think of it, I have 2 unopened boxes still....lol, when the weather gets cooler I'll line the trunk with it as well. I had no fitment issues with the the 1/4" stuff, but I am sure that the 1/2" would have worked just fine or better. Forgot to mention in the beginning, be sure to sound deaden your trunk lid. |
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#16 | |
![]() Drives: 2013 1LS, 2013 Ram 1500 Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Minneapolis, mn
Posts: 645
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Quote:
most DIY'ers see a price and run thinking i can do this cheaper. yes you can, but what is your time worth? at my job (non audio related) my company bills me out at $125 an hour. |
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#17 | |
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H-Town Camaro Club
Drives: 2013 Dusk Edition 2SS/M6/Sun/NPP Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,234
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Quote:
Car Audio installation work is worthless, which is why reputable shops charge nothing because they are making 100% profit on your equipment. Dealer cost on anything you see in any retail shop is 50% of MSRP, if they are a volume dealer there are bonus and rebates but for the most part their business model is built on 100% markup. If you try and bring in your own equipment or ask for them to create artwork out of an trunk installation, they point to a sign and expect you to pay them what amounts to $150k-200k+/yr salary. Most shops these days (not just the audio industry) are charging $100/hr and claiming top notch quality and customer service with bragging rights. But know up front you are getting price gouged. If you want something done right, it will cost you either time or money and these days the money side is exploding. Why? Because people are paying it. |
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#18 |
![]() Drives: 2009 Z06 Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41
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Check out B-Quiet sound dampner. They are located in Alberta and make an excellent product that is priced very well. I've used their Extreme and Ultimate on quite a few installs.
It's nice to be able to get it by the roll as well. I pair that up with a peal and stick closed cell foam product called ensolite and it has great results. Really is a noticeable difference inside the cars. PM me if you want links to the products that I used. Good luck! It's a big job, but pays off when you are finished. Hope that helps. Brad
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2009 Z06 - Black with some Carbon Fiber goodies!
2015 1LT RS - Black ..... Is there any other colour? ![]() |
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#19 |
![]() Drives: grey Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: socal
Posts: 6
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How big of a difference was the stereo before and after dynamat? Not sure what type of lining is in camaros right now, is it just bare metal and then pad/carpet?
And how about just daily driving? Super quiet? Looking like about min $500 of dynamat for just the interior and not including trunk space |
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#20 | |
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H-Town Camaro Club
Drives: 2013 Dusk Edition 2SS/M6/Sun/NPP Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,234
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Quote:
There is zero sound deadening in the Camaro; it is bare sheet metal, the lining in the trunk, the seats and carpet in the cabin area. I'm not counting the 3 pieces (4?) of 6" x 6" 1/16" thick sticky pads, what a joke. 3 boxes will get your trunk, both rear wheel wells, rear trunk lid, rear deck top and bottom, back seats, front seats, partially into front floorboard, and two+ layers in each door. Add 2 to 4 boxes of Dynaliner and your done. Some will argue head liner is worth it, do your research if you have an interest in it (I did not). I also bought the hood liner package/kit. Total cost of materials was right at $600. |
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#21 |
![]() Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Homestead
Posts: 54
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worth every penny. With a quality stereo the sound quality gets better than before. The Sound difference of closing a door between an insulated door and un-insulated door is huge! The car sounds solid and no longer hollow.
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"ah hell you can always make more money!" - dad
" its no fun going slow!" '13 2SS 1LE NAV, LT, CAI, Tune with 447RWHP before new lungs, Billy Boat exhaust 3" Fusion. |
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#22 |
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Keeper of the Gold Acorn
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 177
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Snoman is a friend of mine and I have heard how well his car has been quieted. I only did my trunk, rear deck and partial doors. His doors FEEL heavier and sound solid as hell. Whatever he recommends, I say go with. Great sounding system and you can t hear it outside of the car unless its cranked up and you're close.
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2011 RJT 2SS/RS - Kooks 1-7/8 Long Tubes, High Flow Cats, Corsa Cat Back Exhaust, MTI Short Throw Shifter, Vmax Ported Throttle Body, Fasster Billet Fuel Rails & Custom Braided Vapor and Fuel Lines, CAI Cold Air Intake, RX Catch Can, Nitto Invos, Hawk HPS, BMR Trailing Arms, 2x Zapco ST4x-SQ amps, ST850x-II Sub amp, Morel Tempo 6 componenets, Morel Maximo 6x9, Morel 124 Primo Sub, Zapco DSP8Z Processor... More to Come.
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#23 |
![]() Drives: 2011 2SS Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 341
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Use a heat lamp and get the stuff hot! It lays down really well and sticks much better. Infrared heat lamp and a heat gun will make it conform to any curve.
I use sound deadener alot for work, I've also done both doors and some stratigic areas to kill any bass rattles. |
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#24 | ||
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H-Town Camaro Club
Drives: 2013 Dusk Edition 2SS/M6/Sun/NPP Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,234
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Quote:
Quote:
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#25 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2ss/rs Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,431
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Why did they make it so you have to remove the whip dash assembly to remove carpet properly, which involves removing windshield
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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