Finally...twin turbos for my LFX

[JantzenOKC]

Thanks Monty! That sounds like a pretty slick setup.

I was thinking about just keeping it simple and putting the 50 shot on a button and just spray it at the launch for a couple seconds to get her going then all turbo. Maybe not the safest... Although I will be forged. I'll wait though. I'd like to see how we can get it to sixty foot without nitrous and then add it later if I need/want to. I don't think I'd ever use it on the street so this would be ONLY for my 1/4 runs.

[JantzenOKC]

My Camaro parts room.

[JantzenOKC]

So I took advantage of BMR's black friday special today and ordered all my suspension parts for when I get the SS cradle. I was originally going to order non adjustable toe rods but T.C. with BMR said that a lot of customers end up needing the adjustable ones later on especially on lowered cars. I have my doubts if I really needed them or not but I went ahead and got the adjustable ones. Also got a driveshaft loop and some camber bolts. Wasn't planning on spending that much but I did save over $200. With shipping was going to be almost $950. Thanksgiving price... $703 shipped! I feel like I got a good deal.

[alice]

If you purchase the ZEX NOS kit for the Camaro V-6, the controller can be set to activate the NOS at WOT or any percentage of TPS opening, so that would be automatic, then all you need to do is get a small pressure switch, (SPDT contacts) and put it in series with the wire that comes out of the ZEX controller, using the NC contacts, then you can set the pressure anywhere you want and the entire process is automatic and very, very safe. When you nail the throttle, the NOS would come on and when the boost level rises to your pre-set level, it would go off. Manually operating NOS with FI can be difficult to anticipate due to lightening speed rise in boost levels and could possibly destroy your expensive and beautiful build only because you couldn't get off the button fast enough. Remember, 1st gear is a very low numerical gear and things happen fast. I found that out and that is why I added the pressure switch. For only $30.00, you wouldn't have to worry about it and you might save your motor. Just a cautionary suggestion.

Nice garage! Love all the parts on the shelf. That's how my shop looks. All Camaro! Take your time, dot the i's and cross the t's and this build should turn out awesome and perform even better.

[Pathogen]

Thought I would share: all I have left to do is wire the scavenge pump and install the tune!!!!

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by Pathogen

Thought I would share: all I have left to do is wire the scavenge pump and install the tune!!!!

Sounds like you got it all figured out. Hopefully all goes smooth!

[JantzenOKC]

That sounds like a good way to do the nitrous Monty. If I end up with a nitrous kit I'll look into the controllers a lot more. I'm really hoping I can build some boost and cut a good 60ft without it but I won't be surprised if I can't. These LFX's have the hardest time getting out of the hole. Whatever the throttle problem is. Nitrous seems to be a way around it.

[alice]

Trust me, my Camaro JUMPS off the line. I pull .75 G's of inline acceleration from a standing start. The high stall converter is key and if you can put some taller gears in the rear, it will be a beast. My buddy has a modified 11.5 second Vette and we street race all the time. I actually pull him out of the hole to 30MPH and then maintain that advantage up to 80-90MPH, then he starts working on me. Even he is amazed when we run.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by alice

Trust me, my Camaro JUMPS off the line. I pull .75 G's of inline acceleration from a standing start. The high stall converter is key and if you can put some taller gears in the rear, it will be a beast. My buddy has a modified 11.5 second Vette and we street race all the time. I actually pull him out of the hole to 30MPH and then maintain that advantage up to 80-90MPH, then he starts working on me. Even he is amazed when we run.

Out of everything I'm doing, the stall converter is what I'm most exited about. No more waiting for the rpms to rise. Can't wait!

[JantzenOKC]

So now that I have this new motor apart, I think all the rods in my blown motor were slightly bent. I need to dig them back out and start measuring them all.

Before with my bad motor, test fitting Jason's rods would put the tops of the pistons at zero deck height while the factory rods had the pistons around .020 - .030 in the hole. So I assumed the new rods were longer. No doubt they were longer, you could see it when I hung both rods from the same wrist pin.

Well when I pulled the heads off this '15 motor I was surprised to see all the piston tops even with the deck. EXACTLY like with Jason's rods before. So I hung one of these '15 rods on a wrist pin next to Jason's rod and they match up. So unbelievable to me, ALL the old rods had to be bent. #6 was definitely bent you can see from the pics I posted a few pages back.

So I've pretty much come to the conclusion that my engine failed from compressing oil and trying to hydrolock at 7000rpm. Oil that was collected in the intercooler. Because when I pulled the boost tube and intercooler there was tons of oil in them. Too much oil to have been puked out when the failure happened. The intercooler had oil up to the bottom of the silicone couplers. I was getting oil going into my air filter at WOT, I didn't think it was that much but it might have been more than I thought. Just collecting in the intercooler. #1 was the cylinder that failed and #1 is the first cylinder to be reached by liquid. Just makes sense, the ONLY way rods get bent like my #6 rod is compressing a liquid. #1 prob got some of that oil at full boost and rod gave. Just my theory but no doubt rods were bent.

Here's pics of this '15 engine and the pistons being flush with the deck.

[JantzenOKC]

More pics

[etmx183]

I see the parts list growing, this thing should be a beast when done. Looking good.

[alice]

You are correct in your evaluation of this engine failure. I have built turbo motors all my life and on everyone of them, in order to avoid the issue of the intercooler collecting oil and/or condensed water, you simply drill a .040/.050 diameter hole in the lowest point of the intercooler and as close to the outlet as possible. This will completely eliminate a slug of anything getting into the intake. Never had a problem in the many, many builds I have done over the years. And don't believe anyone who says you will loose any significant amount of boost because you won't. Yes, theoretically but you couldn't measure it without extremely sensitive instruments. All condensation of any oil/water will automatically be expelled out of that tiny hole as it accumulates. I have seen so many blown motors due to this one small oversite.

And to address your complaint about throttle response, one absolute solution to this issue is to purchase a Vitessee throttle controller. When I installed this unit on my LLT, it was like a differnt car!!!!! The throttle response was unbelievable. I swear by these units. Silly simple install and adjustable throttle response on the fly. A MUST!

[Pathogen]

How long did it take for the burning smell to go away?