Finally...twin turbos for my LFX

[alice]

You know better as to the possible cause. For sure, the PCV system needs to be correct. I would spend the necessary time to nail down the problems so you won't be guessing. You are doing a great job on this build and I am impressed. I spend more time thinking things out than actually doing them. It certainly pays off in the end. I highly recommend the Turbowerx Exa pump for oil return. I have used them and they seem to be one of the best on the market. Just a suggestion. A bit expensive but on a job like yours, justified. I dumped the return oil back into the drivers valve cover at the rear where the factory fitting is located. Works great. There is a very cheap way to monitor the pump voltage. Get a 12 volt LED, mount it somewhere on the dash and wire one side to ground, the +12 volt side of the LED would run all the way to the pumps +12volt input. (right at the pump body, after the fuse and all the pump wiring. This will tell you that you have 12 volts at the pump and the fuse and upstream wiring is OK. It will not, however, verify that the pump is running or pumping oil but this will give you a very cheap way of knowing voltage is at the pump. There are other, more involved ways, to actually verifying oil is pumping back to the engine but obviously, more money and work.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

When you are all finished getting the engine back together i will pm u my shipping address..will make a nice xmas gift...thanks, very generous of you!!

LOL maybe I can patch this old one up for you. You gotta pay the shipping though.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by alice

You know better as to the possible cause. For sure, the PCV system needs to be correct. I would spend the necessary time to nail down the problems so you won't be guessing. You are doing a great job on this build and I am impressed. I spend more time thinking things out than actually doing them. It certainly pays off in the end. I highly recommend the Turbowerx Exa pump for oil return. I have used them and they seem to be one of the best on the market. Just a suggestion. A bit expensive but on a job like yours, justified. I dumped the return oil back into the drivers valve cover at the rear where the factory fitting is located. Works great. There is a very cheap way to monitor the pump voltage. Get a 12 volt LED, mount it somewhere on the dash and wire one side to ground, the +12 volt side of the LED would run all the way to the pumps +12volt input. (right at the pump body, after the fuse and all the pump wiring. This will tell you that you have 12 volts at the pump and the fuse and upstream wiring is OK. It will not, however, verify that the pump is running or pumping oil but this will give you a very cheap way of knowing voltage is at the pump. There are other, more involved ways, to actually verifying oil is pumping back to the engine but obviously, more money and work.

I worry more about the pump failing than the wiring going to it. But either would ultimately cause the pump to quit. I've heard about using a hobbs pressure switch in line hooked up to a light inside. I need to look into that some more.

[alice]

Yes, that is a good way to verify oil is actually pumping back to the engine. It works well. Probably would be well worth the little bit of extra work to install this feature.

[JantzenOKC]

So yesterday I called Gerald Brand to take my block and rods over to him now that I have this new engine tore down. Must have got a lot busier because he said it would be into January now before he could even look at it. So I called Mike Henson at Henson Racing Engines which was the other name on the list of two guys that Daddy Dave's shop recommended to me. Mike was a really cool guy and said he did have a lot of work backed up too and it's just that time of year everyone wants motors built. I explained to him that I need my rotating assembly balanced but that I have to get custom pistons made and that will take at least a couple weeks and that I need the block honed or at least know what it will hone to before I can even order the pistons. He was like well come on over and we can look at it. So went to his shop(next door to his house) and let him look at it. He measured my bores and told me what they will hone to and what diameter to make the pistons.

He also measured one of Jason's rods for me from center to center. Measured out to 6.003" which is right on from what Jason said. Stock rods are 152.4mm(6.000") and these rods are supposed to be 152.5mm which is like 6.0039". So they match up pretty well, they are longer by 3-4 thousandths of an inch. Basically the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper.

We also weighed the forged rod with bolts compared to the factory rod with bolts. Surprisingly they weren't that much heavier, only 6 grams difference. Mike was impressed that they didn't weigh more than they did, he said they were undercut quite a bit on the sides which is probably where they saved the weight. The less weight he has to add to the crankshaft counterweights the better.

Factory rod: 608.5 grams
H-beam rod: 614.5 grams

[Jason@JacFab]

Well that's good news... The less heavy metal (typically mallory metal) added to the crank the better. That $#17 is expensive!

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

Well that's good news... The less heavy metal (typically mallory metal) added to the crank the better. That $#17 is expensive!

So I'm hearing.

Balancing the rotating assembly is 200 or 250 I can't remember and goes up depending on how much metal he has to add. Sizing the rods shouldn't be that much, and I'm not sure on the honing yet. I'm figuring around 500 at the machine shop. But who knows I could be light on that.

[JantzenOKC]

My BMR suspension parts came in today, well most of them anyway. For some reason the subframe bushings didn't ship. I'll have to call and see why tomorrow. Got trailing arms with outer bushing, adjustable toe rods, upper control arm bushings, cradle bushings, camber bolts, driveshaft hoop, tunnel brace, and a tube of synthetic grease. All the bushings are polyurethane except the upper control arm bushings which are delrin. I bought the tunnel brace just for looks and because it was only $50 shipped with the black Friday sale, I don't really expect anything out of it performance wise.

I decided to go with red on everything, I figured it would match the red brembos and look good on a white car.

[IPF Tuning]

Very nice I'm excited to see the results keep me posted

best regards

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

So I'm hearing.

Balancing the rotating assembly is 200 or 250 I can't remember and goes up depending on how much metal he has to add. Sizing the rods shouldn't be that much, and I'm not sure on the honing yet. I'm figuring around 500 at the machine shop. But who knows I could be light on that.

Sounds about on par for what they charge around here for the balancing, as long as too much heavy metal doesn't have to be added. Rods should be cheap, as well has honing. In my mind you should be well under your $500 number.

[JantzenOKC]

The transmission cooler isn't going to fit where I was planning so looks like I'm going to have to mount it in between the condenser and intercooler. Fits pretty nice in there and has at least half of the core above the intercooler so should still work well. I'm not crazy about the erector set looking bars so I might see if I can find something a little better looking.

[etmx183]

Looking good, great to see things coming together.

[JantzenOKC]

I ordered a rear diff today. From a '14 SS Auto with 1,000 miles on it. It was pretty cheap so I figured I would just go this route and buy 1LE axles and hubs brand new from the dealer. Diff was 280, hubs are 110 each, axles are 198 each. $900 All together with new dealer parts, not bad. I decided to just stay with 3.27 for the ratio, it's working well for me now and a lot of reading I do about turbo cars say they love high gears(numerically lower). I can always do a gear swap later if I really need to.

[MagnumForceGB]

You may want to get the diff unit itself built up if you plan on serious power and traction. Ask ETMX what happened to his SS unit.