Finally...twin turbos for my LFX

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

Not to change the subject, but that sucks about ricks diff. I put a low mile 3.27 SS rear end in my g8 a few months back and it's been nothing but a piece of shit for me. Luckily I have a spare as carrier from v6 experiments, I've been thinking of doing the jre posi mod and slamming it in there.

Well I'm supposed to get my low miles 3.27 SS diff today. What kind of problems are you having with yours? Also how much power are you making in your G8? Have you modded it much?

[JantzenOKC]

Working on cleaning all the valves today. I started with the worst ones(#1 cylinder) and it turned out pretty good. Probably not as good as walnut blasting but I didn't feel like investing in that stuff. If I was having to do this with the heads still on the vehicle I might go that route but I just used our BG intake cleaner spray and brushes from a gun cleaning kit that was $20 from Wal-Mart. It definitely took some time, that burnt oil and carbon doesn't just come right off. But I'm happy how it turned out.

Here is before:

[JantzenOKC]

And here is after:

[JantzenOKC]

2 down, 4 to go.

[Tajefe Couple]

Those look nice.
They used Seafoam and throttle body cleaner on the valves in the attached cleaning procedure. Wonder if the Seafoam helps breaks up the tough stuff you had to scrub on any better?
These instructions are for when the engine is still in the car. Seem a little dangerous but wouldn't know why it wouldn't work as long as a person was very careful.

[JantzenOKC]

I don't think there's anything out there that would dissolve that junk without scrubbing. The BG stuff is pretty effective.

[Tajefe Couple]

I can only imagine how much fun that is. They where using a BG cleaner along with Seafoam. They had just used towels soaked in Seafoam to lay on them and saturate the valve for a few hours to soften things up. Seemed logical to soak and soften up with the product lots of people use in the PCV system to break up carbon and clean their valves. I can only imagine how tough it is though, was just wondering if anyone had tried it or if it would make removal easier. I wouldn't want to scrub that hard on valves with a brush.
I believe the BMW people coined this method until they started walnut blasting them with the shop vac attachment.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by tajefe

I can only imagine how much fun that is. They where using a BG cleaner along with Seafoam. They had just used towels soaked in Seafoam to lay on them and saturate the valve for a few hours to soften things up. Seemed logical to soak and soften up with the product lots of people use in the PCV system to break up carbon and clean their valves. I can only imagine how tough it is though, was just wondering if anyone had tried it or if it would make removal easier. I wouldn't want to scrub that hard on valves with a brush.
I believe the BMW people coined this method until they started walnut blasting them with the shop vac attachment.

I didn't use soaked towels I just sprayed enough cleaner in with the valves closed to cover all the crud and let it sit and walk by and spray a little in there every now and then. But I have the heads on a bench so I don't have to worry about things dropping in the cylinder. And a lot of the cleaning I did from the bottom with the valves open, it would be hard to clean them this way only from the top with the heads on the car.

Also the valves were definitely leaking at the seats. Before cleaning with the valves closed it would leak cleaner past the valves but after cleaning it would hold forever never leak a drop. Pieces of that buildup break off and dirty the seats and get into the cylinders to scar up the walls.

And as far as not wanting to use brushes on the valves, the gun brushes are brass and also used brass and nylon tooth brushes, they don't scratch the valves. They don't even scratch the aluminum as I used them on the bottoms of the heads to clean the combustion chambers.

[Tajefe Couple]

No you misunderstand I just meant I wouldn't want to have to scrub each one like you did. A.K.A to lazy.
Wow though leaking already at 5k. When I had mine off they where easily twice as bad as yours but with over 30k. That is when I put on a catch can. I wasn't brave enough to try cleaning them the way they did though. Like you mentioned to scared to get carbon down there and scar the walls or my luck break rings.
Would like to have them blasted while closed and hooked to a vacuum system.

[JantzenOKC]

3.27 LSD rear diff made it in today. They sent me an auto v6 diff first and had to resend the right one, so I got to snap a pic of the two diffs side by side. It doesn't look that much bigger but the SS diff feels about twice as heavy as the auto v6 one! I've heard people say that their v6 driveshaft bolted right up to the bigger diff but mine doesn't. The bolt pattern is bigger on the SS diff yoke.

So now I need to figure out how I want to proceed. I could either run this diff as is, or do the JRE posi mod, or go all out and do the truetrac. I should probably just run it as is because I may want to do a gear change later on I won't really know until I run it down the track a few times.

Also need to decide if I want to go ahead and order a DSS aluminum one piece driveshaft or just buy a used SS driveshaft to use the back half of. I really worry about vibrations with the one piece driveshaft. Plus I hate to do TOO many things all at once in case I have noises or vibrations to chase. But also DSS told me 2-3 weeks lead time to make me a shaft so now would be a good time to do it. Decisions decisions....

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

Well I'm supposed to get my low miles 3.27 SS diff today. What kind of problems are you having with yours? Also how much power are you making in your G8? Have you modded it much?

If I remember correctly, my diff came out of a 2011 with about 30k on it. I put it in, used diff fluid and friction modifier from the dealer. Did one good burnout, and that was that. It only does one wheel peels at the track now. But sometimes it acts like it's locked up (like a spool) going around corners. I need to pull it back out and assess the situation. I may get lucky and be able to just pull the ring gear and carrier out, put the ring gear on the other carrier I have after I fully inspect and/or rebuilt it and install the posi mod. I can't see going Tru-Track on the G8, it's just a fun comfortable daily driver, not a track monster.

It's only got a cam and DOD delete, home made 3" axle back w/ muffler delete, and a tune I've been fighting for months. It's probably in the 390-400 crank hp range right now.

So did you get your diff from LKQ? If so, how much was it?

*EDIT* Nevermind about the price, I went back and found that you only paid $280 for it? That's dirt cheap! LKQ?

[JantzenOKC]

LKQ! But they wanted like 130 each for used axles so I just got the diff. Suppose to be one with 9k.

[Jason@JacFab]

Man it's a shame their shipping is so expensive (looks like diffs ship freight only, $175 for commercial delivery, $280 for residential)... There is a diff I would buy on there right now if it weren't for the shipping charge! It only cost me $70 bucks to ship the diff in my G8 via UPS ground.

[JantzenOKC]

Yeah this I ordered through our local rep. It came from a yard in Texas. The LKQ online seems to be different somehow than the local yards. I don't fully understand it but i know my rep gets irritated when I mention the online stuff. The online parts have extra shipping but don't have core charges, and the local LKQ has free shipping but charges core charges.