'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build [COTW 11/17/14]

[AG1LE]

Did you find a synthetic oil that works with the diff, or just stick with the Eaton recommended dino oil?

[X25]

Originally Posted by AG1LE

Did you find a synthetic oil that works with the diff, or just stick with the Eaton recommended dino oil?

I'm using Redline 75W90 NS (no friction modifier). I use it on both Miata (Quaife helical) and 1LE (Eaton Helical). The fact that Eaton has discouraged use of synthetic fluids, and the statement of "we just never tried it; we didn't need it" is laughable. They have finally changed their wording, and they now recommend synthetic (with no additives) if the car manufacturer also recommends.

[X25]

From last week's track day... There is another one coming up next weeekend. Here is hoping weather fares better this time!

[X25]

There were a few parts that I was not happy with on my car. I still had polyurethane bushings as rear subframe bushings and on the rear knuckle. I ended up getting delrin bushings for the knuckle side, and while at it, also got their aluminum solid subframe bushings and the camber plates for a package deal. Their parts look to be similar to Pfadt design, so the camber plates will not increase ride height. Looking forward to trying them all out; I'll soon have no polyurethane bushing left on my car

Delrin bushings:
http://pegasuscnc.com/5th-GEN-CAMARO...gs-Delrin.html


Camber plates:
http://pegasuscnc.com/5th-GEN-CAMARO...-Aluminum.html



Solid subframe bushings:
http://pegasuscnc.com/5th-GEN-CAMARO...-Aluminum.html

[X25]

Updated the mods list (kept up to date on page 1, post 2) with post references! I will soon add:
Pegasus CNC (F.M.T.) Solid rear subframe bushings
Pegasus CNC (F.M.T.) Delrin rear trail arm bushing at the knuckle
Pegasus CNC (F.M.T.) Camber plates
SRP race pedals

Hopefully I won't need anything else for a while : )

Legend: Planned | Procured | Installed

• Engine / Powertrain
  • TSP 304 LT Headers with custom 3" X Pipe (TSP's own x-pipe did not fit perfect). 20, 76
  • Improved Racing oil pan baffle.
  • DEI coil boots.
  • 2000 degrees F matte-gray header coating. 20
  • Diablosport Intune w/ custom tune from FSP - $489 shipped.
  • DeWitts radiator - $575 shipped. 12, 30
  • Improved Racing oil cooler with Setrab Series 6 / 48 rows. how-to, 39, 314, 335, 343, 472
  • Improved Racing oil sensor manifold (ENV-150).
  • Tick remote clutch bleeder. 460, 477
  • Detroit Truetrac 912A686 Helical differential - $511 after rebate. 403
  • Z/28 rear differential cooler (23216684) - $530 + shipping (use coupon code to get 5% off total). 415, 477
• Interior
  • OEM Recaro seats. 214(manual), 227, 268(powered)
  • Custom harness bar with tank plates. 435, 499
  • Schroth Racing Profi II ASM. 435
  • Auto Meter 5286 Direct-fit Gauge Pod. 135
  • Auto Meter 6348 Oil Temp Gauge. 135
  • Auto Meter 6327 Oil Pressure Gauge. 135
  • Auto Meter 9114 Dimmer For LED Gauges.
• Handling
  • Z/28 suspension package . $3449 shipped. 58, 104
    
    • Front/Rear DSSV struts,
    • Front/Rear sway bars with end links ,
    • Front control arms,
    • Rear upper and lower arms.
  • Z/28 full aero. 181, 182, 285
  • ZL1Addons see-through wicker bill. 367
  • Tires
    • Hankook Ventus R-S3 305/30/19 for daily driving. 89, 137
    • Pirelli Trofeo R 305/30/19. 179
    • Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 305/30/19. 193, 204
  • Wheels
    • APEX ARC-8 19"x10.5" +22 spin forged wheels for daily driving / rain. 56, 89, 130, 137
    • OEM Z/28 Wheels 19"x11" +11 fronts, 19"x11.5" +26 rears. 184, 204
• Brakes
  • Quantum - Competition Brake Cooling Kit - $239.95. how-to
    • NACA ducts: $20.
  • StopTech ST60 Front BBK 15” red (83.193.6800.71). 114, 121
  • Stock rear rotor (92245929) - $85.31 shipped x2.
  • Pads
    • Raybestos ST47 R2600.18 Front pads for StopTech ST60 caliper. 121
    • Cobalt Friction XR2 Rear (CRB-XR2-D592-15.0MM-R).
• Fluids
  • Engine oil: Mobil1 5W-30.
  • Differential oil: Redline 75W-90NS (no friction modifier for helical Eaton TrueTrac diff).
  • Transmission oil: Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF.
  • Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600.
  • Coolant: GM DexCool @30%.
  • Suspension grease: Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2.
• Other
  • HSA elimination - $80 shipped.
  • Wheel comparison: 48, 117
  • Brake systems/comparison: 58, 79, 93, 117
  • Dyno: 155

[Mgizzle]

X, can you commemt on BMR engine mounts? What are you running now for engine mounts?

[X25]

Originally Posted by Mgizzle

X, can you commemt on BMR engine mounts? What are you running now for engine mounts?

In short: if you intend to use your car for (road course) track duty, I would stay away.

Longer version:
I don't think polyurethane is appropriate for most of the suspension, including the engine mounts. I learned the hard way that, especially when it's not encapsulated, polyurethane loses its shape. This is emphasized even more when the material is subjected to heat like the engine mounts.

When I first got these mounts, my thinking was that it would help me shift smoother. I knew that it helped quite a bit on my Miata since less flex between transmission casing and the engine (due to less movement allowed by stiffer engine mounts) helps preserve the transmission and let the shift forks do their job more precisely. Anyhow, I think the engine mounts were initially stiff enough, but after a few track days, I started hearing a banging noise as I got on/off throttle. It took me a week to realize what's going on: the bushings were malformed, and left a slack, which meant that they were beaten the crap out of as the engine hammered the bushings after every hard shift. Thanks to BMR, I got the bushings replaced for free, and tightened them a lot more this time, hoping this would not happen again. Well, they did not get hammered or completely destroyed like before, but they were still very much malformed.

The first set of bushings on the engine mount after 3 track days:


This is the condition of the second set of bushings after 5-6 track days:



I would highly recommend staying away from any engine mount with polyurethane bushings, especially if the bushings are put on like a washer, as on BMR mounts. If they are in a casing, they might have a better chance of survival, but after what I've been through, I'd only use rubber. The same advice goes for most of the other suspension bushings, too. I am very glad that I got to replace most of the remaining bushings with the Z/28 suspension package.

I have since reverted back to OEM 1LE (same as SS?) engine mounts. I thought they were same as ZL1 mounts, but apparently they're not. If I knew during the time, I'd just put on Z/28 (if it's different part number) or ZL1 mounts. I have to say, though, the OEM mounts seem to be doing a pretty decent job. I've never had issues shifting with this car when the car is in stress, except those times when my body was in stress itself, making the shift very hard to do : ) Hopefully my new harness bar and Profi II ASM race harness with Recaros will prevent that next season.

[L99CAMA2011]

Originally Posted by X25

In short: if you intend to use your car for (road course) track duty, I would stay away.

Longer version:
I don't think polyurethane is appropriate for most of the suspension, including the engine mounts. I learned the hard way that, especially when it's not encapsulated, polyurethane loses its shape. This is emphasized even more when the material is subjected to heat like the engine mounts.

When I first got these mounts, my thinking was that it would help me shift smoother. I knew that it helped quite a bit on my Miata since less flex between transmission casing and the engine (due to less movement allowed by stiffer engine mounts) helps preserve the transmission and let the shift forks due their job more precisely. Anyhow, I think the engine mounts were initially stiff enough, but after a few track days, I started hearing a banging noise as I got on/off throttle. It took me a week to realize what's going on: the bushings were malformed, and left a slack, which meant that they were beaten the crap out of as the engine hammered the bushings after every hard shift. Thanks to BMR, I got the bushings replaced for free, and tightened them a lot more this time, hoping this would not happen again. Well, they did not got hammered and completely destroyed like before, but they were still very much malformed.

The first set of bushings on the engine mount after 3 track days:


This is the condition of the second set of bushings after 5-6 track days:



I would highly recommend staying away from any engine mount with polyurethane bushings, especially if the bushings are put on like a washer, as on BMR mounts. If they are in a casing, they might have a better chance of survival, but after what I've been through, I'd only use rubber. The same advice goes for most of the other suspension bushings, too. I am very glad that I got to replace most of the remaining bushings with the Z/28 suspension package.

I have since reverted back to OEM 1LE (same as SS?) engine mounts. I thought they were same as ZL1 mounts, but apparently they're not. If I knew during the time, I'd just put on Z/28 (if it's different part number) or ZL1 mounts. I have to say, though, the OEM mounts seem to be doing a pretty decent job. I've never had issues shifting with this car when the car is in stress, except those times when my body was in stress itself, making the shift very hard to do : ) Hopefully my new harness bar and Profi II ASM race harness with Recaros will prevent that next season.

BMR bushings seem to be of low quality even in the suspension dept. I wonder how Prothane engine mounts are holding up.

[Synner]

My torque solutions have held up very well despite the proximity of 2" primaries. I'm switching to a 1-7/8" ceramic coated setup now to help even more with heat and clearance.

[Synner]

Originally Posted by X25

Since I've installed the tick remote bleeder and the Z/28 diff cooler, I've been hearing the transmission much like observed by this member when the engine is very cold:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430158

I'd normally assume I do have an issue with that bearing as pointed out by the members, but another member, yenkostyle also had the exact same issue when he got Z/28 diff cooler installed, and his car was brand new when it was installed by the dealer, so I don't think his throwout bearing is gone:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...14#post8716514

I'll keep an eye on this issue. Here is hoping I indeed don't have a real problem.

Did you install the system, run the transmission for a while, then refill the fluid? Only reason why it would make noise is what I assume would be cavitation. I "drove" it on jack stands and refilled it, no noise.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Synner

Did you install the system, run the transmission for a while, then refill the fluid? Only reason why it would make noise is what I assume would be cavitation. I "drove" it on jack stands and refilled it, no noise.

Yep, I did refill. I don't know what is different than yours, but I've found two other members since then with the kit, and they all have the noise. Thankfully it disappears once the transmission warms up.

[FKNGRSY]

Are those solid subframe bushings also subframe risers? This is my favourite build on C5 by the way. Love the diy attitude and learning through trial and error.

[X25]

Originally Posted by FKNGRSY

Are those solid subframe bushings also subframe risers? This is my favourite build on C5 by the way. Love the diy attitude and learning through trial and error.

Thanks! There has definitely been quite a bit of error along the way : )

They don't rise the subframe. The origjnal bushing is pretty beefy, and the solid pieces are tall to match it. The awkward shape seems to be due to an attempt to keep weight of the parts low. These are modeled after Pfadt pieces, and are 10% lighter due to additional holes drilled throughout. Here is hoping they don't break due to those holes. I haven't heard of anyone's bushings failing, so they're likely strong enough.

[Mgizzle]

Tx for th clear write up X on the engine mounts. I do have issues with third gear due to engine moving around too much, did see detroit.speed sells some nice mounts but they all look solid, no bushings at all. I drove a friends SS with Pfadt solid mounts and lots of NVH during start in first.