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#15 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2ss RS. White (RIP) 2012 LS3 Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 484
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2ss RS. White (RIP) 2012 LS3 Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 484
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I'm just gunna go on ramps and lower the Trans with my floor jack. I just really don't wanna screw anything up. You guys use a torque wrench to re torque the cross member bolts?
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 M6 Camaro SS (RIP) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,684
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Yes, torque on the crossmember bolts were 84 ft-lbs if I recall correctly
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#18 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: South GA
Posts: 104
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I'm in exactly the same position as you. I want to do it to my 2010 2SS but an fearing the trans lowering part despite ripping into my other cars without issue.
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__________________
Quote:
1994 Mazda Miata |
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#19 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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I'm not sure what everyone is afraid of. If you have a floorjack, put a block of wood on it, put it under the trans and support it. Remove the (4) bolts holding the crossmember to the frame. You can leave the two nuts alone that connect the trans to the crossmember. Lower the back end of the trans with the floor jack until it gives you enough room to get your hands up in there. That is all there is to it.
If you follow the MGW video instructions, the truly hardest part is removing the two locking pieces with the allen wrench and getting the rubber boot on. I've done it a couple of times now and it gets easier everytime. |
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