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#15 | ||
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: South GA
Posts: 104
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I agree - I check my oil level every few months - nothing out of the norm. I was totally shocked when I checked the catch can today - definitely a first time having it that full.
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1994 Mazda Miata |
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2010 ss/rs Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: southern colorado
Posts: 91
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I agree I just emptied mine and at 6000 miles there was only maybe a 1/2 inch of oil tops in the can.
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2010 2ss/rs ls3 dynatech longtubes/exhaust, CAI intake, mgw short throw, pfadt coils, ds i1000 tuned by dynosteve, taylor 409 race wires, elite catch can, bfg comp 2 tires,
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#17 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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Mobil1 recommends no more than 12 months on the oil, regardless of mileage.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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#18 | ||
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: South GA
Posts: 104
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It gets used on several road trips trips throughout the year that are quite lengthy, and I have a 85 mile commute to work so it gets used every so often for that as well. No hard at all.
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#19 | ||
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: South GA
Posts: 104
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This is the first time I've seen this much in the can , and this is definitely the longest I've gone without checking it, unfortunately. My driving style hasn't changed - I'm lost as to what could have changed.
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#20 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Black L99 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,862
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Anytime you start a thread with "Catch can"
At least 3 pages are guaranteed |
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#21 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 ss Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: E-TX
Posts: 764
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Dayum. I would probably have that much if i waited 10k.
I try to check mine every 3-4 weeks and I'm always amazed how much oil gets captured. |
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#22 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 camaro Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: central VA
Posts: 3,199
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I change my oil at about 15% on the OLM, which usually works out to 6500-7000 miles. never uses a drop. some of you guys must run the dog poop out of yours.
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#23 |
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100% Chevy & Harley Man
Drives: 2010 2SS: Blown LSX 376-B15 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Eldersburg,MD
Posts: 2,211
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My catch can is bone dry.
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LSX 376-B15, TVS2300 SC, Harland Sharp Rockers w/ Trunion Bearings, ATI Balancer/keyed, AR LT Headers/Borla Catback Exhaust, DSS 1400 HP Axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, 3.70, Hotchkis Springs/Sway bars, Forgeline SO3P Aluminum Wheels (20x9.5 F/20x11 R)w/ Hidden Titanium Hardware, Nitto NT05 Tires (27540ZR20 F/31535ZR20 R), Billet LPE brake/gas pedals, Escort 9500ci Radar Detector Laser Jammer, Roto Fab CAI with Ice Silver box, Carbon fiber tube/MAF Housing Assy, LPE Aluminum coil covers, SS9 Sleeper Fiber Glass Hood (ACS), Carbotech 1521 ceramic brake pads, Elite catch can.
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#24 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 ss Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: E-TX
Posts: 764
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That's crazy to hear. I've had four catch cans on four separate ls motors. Never had one not capturing oil. Guess I'm just hard on my cars.
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#25 | |
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Didn't they revise the valve cover design after the early years so the pcv didn't pick up as much oil splashing around? My car is a 2010 and it catches a lot, I'd say about 1oz per 1,000 miles. |
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#26 |
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old school chevy rodder
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I would agree, my engine with over 10k miles on it produced about 1/2 ounce in 3k emptied it yesterday; when considering the volume of your can you display about ten times my collection, makes you wonder.
For a 10K oil change many do not do that mileage in a year, for full synthetics the 5k mark is used, conventional oils are 3k ,( in engines other than ours), the dexos 50/50 blend is 5k. Now using amsoil you could do 10k changes according to them, you could also run with a very dirty filter for 100k if you really want and see if it totally affects the flow of oil to the low oiling LS top end until it grenades. You save on oil so you can do black stone reports.....which costs 28? And then you can check to see if anything is falling apart yet, what happens when Mr.Blackstone says welcome to the 'Jungle" and you've eaten something pressing every last bit of the usage out of the oils ZDDP, or it anti foaming ability, or its sheer ability, or its viscosity, etc, etc. SO yes you don't want to see brass or this or that but it does not measure so many other aspects of oil to consider and is a report on the oil in the engine and what has been floating in it and its condition, but yes a guy could have great reports then suddenly.....hey the cams eating itself to death, or so much contamination suddenly its bearings being chewed from a failure and rebuild is required practically. The point being I have seen people use the reports over time and then yup, it goes south they can pick up on it early enough to avoid major failure, but that's after they are starting to eat a cam from a stuck lifter or two or the core goes bad etc..... Changing the oil is for most a no brainer as what the oil manufacturer recommends is modified heavily by driving a car in race conditions or/ hard driving and yes you always need plenty of ZDDP in your oil and the right viscosity as it says in our manual 5 w 30 and that's what our oil system is made for and needed to oil the top end. Increased oiling needs for a modified engine, oils made specifically for the engine in a specific application is what the world is going too along with CAFE standards this coming year so are oil standards changing. SO be very wary or picking the wrong oils in the future people as some will have like zero ZDDP in it. I myself use driven racing LS30 oil and read their bulletins and tech articles and break in with br30 and oil is a cost I do not skimp on just as I would not use low octane fuel or cheaper tires or cheap parts because stuff happens and it does not need any help. Oil does condense in the mix water from water vapor in more temperate climates /wet, here in Oregon its generally a condition where its recommended to do oil change every year even if its only got a lot more to go on the oils life the condensation will from and make a nice white film under valve covers and in the pans above the oil on a average Small block Chevy. And the amount of the oil in the catch can....makes one wonder if the hoses are routed right, if the oil lost its viscosity, if the rings/bore are well worn from high mileage etc..... http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/.../testimonials/ I recommend reading the interesting bulletins/ articles on high temperature sheer, the LS engine oil problems, European standards oiling problems, the new oil standard articles. Good Luck to you all. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on a combination of factors which include engine revolutions, engine temperature, and miles driven. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes on. See Engine Oil Messages on page 5‑36. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 1000km (600mi). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might indicate that an oil change is not necessary for up to a year. The engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and, at this time, the system must be reset. Your dealer has trained service people who will perform this work and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly over the course of an oil drain interval and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 5000km (3,000mi) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. ..from the manual, I agree with the last post the 2010 being the initial year you may get a lot more than other years as it seems that way from posts over time.........
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data,Red Carbon Interior, Nav, RotoFab Big Gulp , Elite x2ultra, Borla ATAK, Driveshaft shop, BMR susp, Speed covers, intercoolers, ATI , 2650 MAG, DSX lid, 103 NW, TSP Longtubes & cats, LPE, 1le mods, ,LME cover, Katech pump and chain, Trunnions, BTR stage 2, LPE boostapump, Gforce, Speed eng , Granetteli, etc etc
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#27 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro RS Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Union ,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4
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You push the button or pump the gas pedal to reset to oil life system, don't need a trained dealer technician to handle that. Have you ever seen who actually does the oil changes at your precious dealer,a bunch of young kids that don't know what they are doing. That whole dealer maintained thing is not as great as a lot of people seem to think. I know lots of people, including my daughter ,who have worked at a Chevy or Ford dealer doing oil/tire changes,and believe me ,some pretty good stories of what goes on.
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#28 | ||
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: South GA
Posts: 104
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I didn't mean to start a sh*t storm from a thread. I'm not a frequent poster so I didn't know that catch can posts were so polarizing. Lesson learned!
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