Elite Catch Can Installation (LFX)

[Kenny Camaro]

Originally Posted by bdd8401

Ok i am all confused i thought it was a oil pump failure, the ls3's were having oil pump failures, so it was a fuel pump that grenaded his engine and not the oil pump. I haven't seen any other tread but the one Mr Stacy started the petition about. I need to start paying closer attention to the threads since i have decided to start modding my car finally but i don't want to lose my warranty since i got the extended one.

My bad, yes the oil pump.

[bdd8401]

Ok thanks i was just checking to see if i had missed something, not sure how many people have posted about bei g denied warranty, concerns me now that i am starting to mod my car.

[Elite Engineering]

The only instance even close was the one thread, and the tech in that case misdiagnosed it all. The engine was fine as the owner shut it down as soon as the DIC oil pressure warning came on, and he had it towed to the dealer. He was lucky the tech did not damage the engine running it with no oil pressure as it turned out to be only the oil pump, one of the most common failures of the LS engines. Other than that case, which the tech and dealer were as incompetent as any ever, never been blamed, and that is the ONLY case we have ever seen documented in all the years, and 10's of thousands of the cans in use. There actually are very few dealers that will cause trouble as more become educated on the Elite cans functions and retaining a closed system that could not have any impact actually, or legally (if the person ever facing such, which we doubt or there would have been more cases of denial, pursued it with help from the FTC and a Mag.Moss act law firm.) . There are more and more dealers signing up to become Elite dealers all the time.


It is amazing how blown out of proportion and how the story has changed and morphed when you read other forums on the one case, and even here, where it was all documented and followed by MrStacey, the actual outcome seems to have been lost.


Final end of the story was the engine turned out to be fine. The owner that endured all the hassle from his dealer and GM (That dealer I would not trust to change my oil personally if the tech misdiagnosed and tried to sell him a new motor) ended up changing, or having help changing the oil pump himself and all was fine. Can still run on his car.


That said, there are many cans out there that due break the closed system, reduce or defeat some or most of the functions of the PCV system that would be grounds for voiding, and will cause damage or shortened engine life over time.


ALL Elite Engineering USA cans retain or actual improve all functions of the factory PCV system and are designed to be in compliance of emissions reg's. CA has the CARB cert that we do not have though.


Anyone with any technical questions on any of this, just ask and were happy to explain all in detail. The PCV system is so misunderstood, and there is not much accurate info available for the consumer to learn.

[killercamaro23]

I just purchased an oil from Elite Engineering and was wondering for the people that already installed 1. what tool did you use to cut the original hose ? it felt like a tough plastic and I don't wanna crack it. list a couple tools that would make it an easy cut. thanks

[sixtyseven]

Originally Posted by killercamaro23

I just purchased an oil from Elite Engineering and was wondering for the people that already installed 1. what tool did you use to cut the original hose ? it felt like a tough plastic and I don't wanna crack it. list a couple tools that would make it an easy cut. thanks

At first I tried a small pipe cutter. That just flattened the plastic tube and wasn't working very well. Large pair of sharp scissors cut it perfectly. Or you can use a razor knife too.

[gringo]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

The only instance even close was the one thread, and the tech in that case misdiagnosed it all. The engine was fine as the owner shut it down as soon as the DIC oil pressure warning came on, and he had it towed to the dealer. He was lucky the tech did not damage the engine running it with no oil pressure as it turned out to be only the oil pump, one of the most common failures of the LS engines. Other than that case, which the tech and dealer were as incompetent as any ever, never been blamed, and that is the ONLY case we have ever seen documented in all the years, and 10's of thousands of the cans in use. There actually are very few dealers that will cause trouble as more become educated on the Elite cans functions and retaining a closed system that could not have any impact actually, or legally (if the person ever facing such, which we doubt or there would have been more cases of denial, pursued it with help from the FTC and a Mag.Moss act law firm.) . There are more and more dealers signing up to become Elite dealers all the time.


It is amazing how blown out of proportion and how the story has changed and morphed when you read other forums on the one case, and even here, where it was all documented and followed by MrStacey, the actual outcome seems to have been lost.


Final end of the story was the engine turned out to be fine. The owner that endured all the hassle from his dealer and GM (That dealer I would not trust to change my oil personally if the tech misdiagnosed and tried to sell him a new motor) ended up changing, or having help changing the oil pump himself and all was fine. Can still run on his car.


That said, there are many cans out there that due break the closed system, reduce or defeat some or most of the functions of the PCV system that would be grounds for voiding, and will cause damage or shortened engine life over time.


ALL Elite Engineering USA cans retain or actual improve all functions of the factory PCV system and are designed to be in compliance of emissions reg's. CA has the CARB cert that we do not have though.


Anyone with any technical questions on any of this, just ask and were happy to explain all in detail. The PCV system is so misunderstood, and there is not much accurate info available for the consumer to learn.

Can you explain the purpose and benefits of the additional exit port on the new (two exit port) E2X catch can compared to the original (one exit port) E2 catch can? Also, are the billet check valves that you now offer beneficial on a N/A application?

According to the RX catch can installation video on Youtube, the second exit port is designed to go into a hole drilled into the intake just before the TB and the check valve is installed on the vacuum line leading to the port on top of the intake manifold.

Since I have the original (one exit port) E2 catch can with clean-side separator, would upgrading to the new (two exit port) E2X with check valves be beneficial for a N/A LFX?

[Elite Engineering]

Yes. A NA engine relies on intake manifold vacuum for evacuation of the damaging compounds that enter the crankcase as blow-by (all engines have some) and when you accelerate, or run at WOT, there is no vacuum present due to the reversion pulses traveling back up the runners from cam lobe overlap.



So the second outlet (were talking NA engines here, FI is a bit different) is used to provide a secondary evacuation suction source, and that is the area just upstream of the throttle body as the reversion does not reach past the TB until well over 8k RPM.


The check valves (almost all new engines today now come with them from the factory in the stock PCV valve assy) prevent any back flow that could bring the separated compounds back in, and also prevent any pressure entering through this path.



The 2 check valves go in the outlet side lines (Exit) and will automatically open and close as needed to default to the strongest suction source providing full time evacuation of the contaminates. Why is this good? During any stagnant periods (and the vents, breathers, and "tanks" were seeing people use allow far more, or most all to remain in the crankcase contaminating the engine oil, etc. if used greatly increasing internal wear, etc. and allowing pressure to be present so you always want to pull suction VS letting pressure build and vent) the abrasive and damaging compounds all engines have entering has a chance to settle and mix with the oil, and once there, most is there to stay.



So yes, the benefits are many with our latest designs, and a must with and direct injection engine.

[gringo]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Yes. A NA engine relies on intake manifold vacuum for evacuation of the damaging compounds that enter the crankcase as blow-by (all engines have some) and when you accelerate, or run at WOT, there is no vacuum present due to the reversion pulses traveling back up the runners from cam lobe overlap.



So the second outlet (were talking NA engines here, FI is a bit different) is used to provide a secondary evacuation suction source, and that is the area just upstream of the throttle body as the reversion does not reach past the TB until well over 8k RPM.


The check valves (almost all new engines today now come with them from the factory in the stock PCV valve assy) prevent any back flow that could bring the separated compounds back in, and also prevent any pressure entering through this path.



The 2 check valves go in the outlet side lines (Exit) and will automatically open and close as needed to default to the strongest suction source providing full time evacuation of the contaminates. Why is this good? During any stagnant periods (and the vents, breathers, and "tanks" were seeing people use allow far more, or most all to remain in the crankcase contaminating the engine oil, etc. if used greatly increasing internal wear, etc. and allowing pressure to be present so you always want to pull suction VS letting pressure build and vent) the abrasive and damaging compounds all engines have entering has a chance to settle and mix with the oil, and once there, most is there to stay.



So yes, the benefits are many with our latest designs, and a must with and direct injection engine.

Okay, I was afraid of that. So...in order to fully protect my engine like I wanted with the original E2, I have to now upgrade to the E2x to get full complete protection. I wish I knew this beforehand because I would have waited for the E2x instead of buying the original E2 catch can.

Whenever I inquired about this second exit port on the E2x with optional check valves, I was told this was primarily for FI applications, not N/A. Now, I being told this is also good for N/A providing even better protection against coking compared to the original E2 catch can.

Is there any way to upgrade the E2 to provide the same benefit of the E2x? You know, like perhaps running a splitter on the exit port with a second hose line to the TB to provide an additional source of vacuum under high reversion situations? If not, then I think it would be a good idea to offer some kind of core/credit replacement program for those who originally bought the E2 catch but now want to upgrade to the more effective E2x.

[KillboyPowerhead]

I could be wrong - can't remember what the inside of the catch can looks like - but if the contents (filter media, inner walls, etc.) of the can are symmetrical, could you just drill and tap a second port yourself, 180°/across from the original exit port?

[1Coopgt]

Originally Posted by gringo

Okay, I was afraid of that. So...in order to fully protect my engine like I wanted with the original E2, I have to now upgrade to the E2x to get full complete protection. I wish I knew this beforehand because I would have waited for the E2x instead of buying the original E2 catch can.

Whenever I inquired about this second exit port on the E2x with optional check valves, I was told this was primarily for FI applications, not N/A. Now, I being told this is also good for N/A providing even better protection against coking compared to the original E2 catch can.

Is there any way to upgrade the E2 to provide the same benefit of the E2x? You know, like perhaps running a splitter on the exit port with a second hose line to the TB to provide an additional source of vacuum under high reversion situations? If not, then I think it would be a good idea to offer some kind of core/credit replacement program for those who originally bought the E2 catch but now want to upgrade to the more effective E2x.

This is a great question. Elite should make a Upgrade kit for the E2 or as you say have some sort of replacement program for those of us that bought the E2 just as the E2x came out. When I picked up the E2 I was under the same impressions . It annoys the hell out of me and makes me feel like I was lied to .

[gringo]

Originally Posted by 1Coopgt

This is a great question. Elite should make a Upgrade kit for the E2 or as you say have some sort of replacement program for those of us that bought the E2 just as the E2x came out. When I picked up the E2 I was under the same impressions . It annoys the hell out of me and makes me feel like I was lied to .

Well, they do offer a $48 adapter kit for FI applications on the one exit port E2 catch can. However, there are no directions on how to install the second exit port. I guess you would have to drill the catch can to install the second exit port.

Also, where do you mount the vacuum hose pre TB into the intake? I wouldn't want to drill a hole into the stock intake tube for fear of ever having to take the car into the dealer while still under warranty. Is there an existing factory port you could use to splice into?

Hopefully, the Elite Engineering market rep will come back into this thread and help us answer these questions.

[gringo]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

The only instance even close was the one thread, and the tech in that case misdiagnosed it all. The engine was fine as the owner shut it down as soon as the DIC oil pressure warning came on, and he had it towed to the dealer. He was lucky the tech did not damage the engine running it with no oil pressure as it turned out to be only the oil pump, one of the most common failures of the LS engines. Other than that case, which the tech and dealer were as incompetent as any ever, never been blamed, and that is the ONLY case we have ever seen documented in all the years, and 10's of thousands of the cans in use. There actually are very few dealers that will cause trouble as more become educated on the Elite cans functions and retaining a closed system that could not have any impact actually, or legally (if the person ever facing such, which we doubt or there would have been more cases of denial, pursued it with help from the FTC and a Mag.Moss act law firm.) . There are more and more dealers signing up to become Elite dealers all the time.


It is amazing how blown out of proportion and how the story has changed and morphed when you read other forums on the one case, and even here, where it was all documented and followed by MrStacey, the actual outcome seems to have been lost.


Final end of the story was the engine turned out to be fine. The owner that endured all the hassle from his dealer and GM (That dealer I would not trust to change my oil personally if the tech misdiagnosed and tried to sell him a new motor) ended up changing, or having help changing the oil pump himself and all was fine. Can still run on his car.


That said, there are many cans out there that due break the closed system, reduce or defeat some or most of the functions of the PCV system that would be grounds for voiding, and will cause damage or shortened engine life over time.


ALL Elite Engineering USA cans retain or actual improve all functions of the factory PCV system and are designed to be in compliance of emissions reg's. CA has the CARB cert that we do not have though.


Anyone with any technical questions on any of this, just ask and were happy to explain all in detail. The PCV system is so misunderstood, and there is not much accurate info available for the consumer to learn.

I keep asking....

[KillboyPowerhead]

Anyone know a part number for the tube (with connectors) that you need to cut? Would like to get this catch can on but also want to be able to "reverse it" if needed as I'm still under warranty. Couldn't find the part at all on gmpartsdirect website.

[gringo]

GM #12638437. It's pretty cheap too.