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#29 | |
![]() Drives: 2012 2SS Victory Red convertible Join Date: May 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 260
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#30 | |
![]() Drives: 2012 Orange 2SS/RS Convertible Join Date: May 2016
Location: Saint Louis, Mo.
Posts: 227
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Quote:
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#31 |
![]() Drives: 2012 Orange 2SS/RS Convertible Join Date: May 2016
Location: Saint Louis, Mo.
Posts: 227
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Well aware that John and Bo are highly knowledgeable. Thank you sir. But even experts can miss a trick or a new product. Definitely listening to their advice though.
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#32 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 4,018
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#33 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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Quote:
That's a big step if on a budget.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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#34 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 4,018
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#35 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 IBM silver stipes Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: K.C. Kansas
Posts: 1,329
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I just ordered a set of 305 Mickey Thompson ET Street SS. If I didn't want a drag radial, then I would have gotten the Mickey Thompson Street Comp
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2010 Imperial Blue w/ Silver stripes 2SS/RS L99
Mods = Not enough.... |
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#36 |
![]() Drives: 2012 Orange 2SS/RS Convertible Join Date: May 2016
Location: Saint Louis, Mo.
Posts: 227
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#37 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2011 2SS/ RS INFERNO ORANGE L99 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Alliston Ontario Canada
Posts: 9,057
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#38 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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Don't do that. The larger diameter will reduce your gear ratio.
Unless you are going for top speed. A lot of people think rotational mass = rotational mass. But they fail to realize the farther from the center of rotation the mass is, the more energy it takes to rotate that mass and the slower it is to respond. Acceleration or braking. You want the 315/35 to match the OEM diameter. It's still more mass than the 275/40 but at least it is as close to the center as the OEMs.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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#39 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 72
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#40 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 M6 Camaro SS (RIP) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,684
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They'll spin if I go full clutch dump but do you mean like rolling into WOT once in gear in the street? If so then yes they hook just fine from a roll in first gear
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Speed engineering 1 7/8 LTs, CAI inc Cold Air Intake, offroad connectors, Solo performance axle back with J pipes, tune, and in need of a driver mod LOL
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#41 |
![]() Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 598
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There's always the P ZERO TROFEO R. Designed for the z28.
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#42 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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You have done most likely what to the suspension? NADA, you need better trailing arms and toes at least to limit the wheel hop, you have a l99 with not so much for low end torque believe me....so you think the weaker than fe4 suspension helps on a vert? I used to have a 11 vert l99 it was weaker by far on launch than a stock manual. I think you should look to the suspension.
'I load my suspension just slightly by not just hammering it and letting the first 1/2 second go ahead and be a transition or I would always burn out, I can do rolling burnouts banging gears hard and get fishy and I always drive with traction control and stabillitrac. Now you may or may not be tuned? and then if turned well the torque management will not rob power killing your desire to burn rubber, but still at your power level even with spray down the road your not going to be using it 24/7 like I have with a stick and 400+ ft lbs at idle to the rear. Driving a automatic your not most likely having a real problem other than wheel hop if you manage to get traction to loosen with a automatic as planting the tires the rear trailing and toes are stamped cheap and with rubber bushings just a problem waiting to happen. No trans braking , no higher than normal torque converter /aftermarket more expensive trans yours tune may help with getting power to the ground but your not so high at your mods a better exhaust and CAI to really worry about tires like everything has to be a drag race. My advice look to the suspension, I run Toyo proxes 4+ with about a 50k life supposedly compared to crap wear rating of 220 of the stock P zero a rating of over 500 and better rain handling here where I daily drive in rain all the time would be my advice. A couple BMR pieces from Phastek and you may just find you never had a problem, yes no matter what if you have a rear wheel drive the engine torques down and the car squats on the right rear first, people tune struts and whole suspension systems to counter this, or you can learn to drive just a little bit differently to not just intentionally try to burn rubber. Sure a Vert does have softer than FE-4 , it used to be softer than FE-3, it a little more reinforced because of its body flex and it needs it with a strut tower brace and such but hey even the zl1 and 1le suspensions are easily improved apon with aftermarket parts. BTW I never floor it from a stop I may break a axle like a kid and a tootsie pop, you want to torture your rear you may want to get used to shopping for some suspension upgrades. Good Luck..... the wheel was invented long ago, Proxes 4 + have about exactly the same speed and grip rating as the stock p-zero also BTW and are a all season performance radial as some of us have to daily drive. And with 5 cats and 5 dogs and one that loves to sit on top my car the vert. had to go as I knew building it would cost more, I did treat the top repeatedly with Sunbrella to make it water proof, but cleaning up white car hair on a triple black car sucked. Now if your one of these yahoos who think its great to drive all the time with traction control off..I give up.
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