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Old 04-21-2017, 07:34 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
I mocked up "wider wheels" with my OE 1LE wheels. I spaced them out 20mm to duplicate the theoretical change of going with a 19x11 ET13 and ET33.
Poke at front:
Attachment 866898

Poke at rear:
Attachment 866894

Damn, pics went sideways
This is with the 20s though right. That isnt bad at all. So with those specs on a 19x11 would we have any clearance issues at all on the inside?

I see that with et 13 it is 8mm closer than the stock ss wheel

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Old 04-21-2017, 09:29 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
We can use my 1LE wheels/tires for example.

I am running 2.4* of front camber (no camber plate) and have about 7mm of clearance from the tire to the strut. Justice Pete has always stated a #2 pencil as a good gauge for clearance. Knowing this we don't want to get any closer to the strut with the max camber. So we have to push all extra width out to the fender.

I use this page for wheel comparisons:
http://rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
It takes into account the role of the tire in any clearance issues. Some calculators do not do this. And remember some tires actually are wider for any given size, so that variable comes into play. But do not discount the wheel's role, as on the Gen 6's, the wheel may be the first object to cause an issue. So while this calculator is great, it is not a be all end all on dead nuts fitment.

A 19x11 with an offset of ET13 will get real close to matching the 1LE front tire to strut clearance, but sticks out about 20mm. 20mm will poke just a tiny bit with -2.4* camber. I've seen bits of info on custom 19x11's coming in at about 17 to 20 mm offsets. That's not to say they are not using other offsets, that is just what I have found listed here on the forums and elsewhere. Most if not all vendors who sell Forgelines will not divulge the offset info, and I understand that. They did the homework on proper offsets.

If we use a camber plate, we can get most of our camber via the plate and we rely less on the OE point of adjustment at the spindle/strut. This helps the tire to strut clearance because it forces us to pull the spindle (and tire)away from the strut. So we could get a wheel with an offset like 20mm, which on paper puts the tire 7mm closer to the strut, and only 13mm at the fender (less poke). This only works if the use of a camber plates creates atleast 7mm more clearance.

I've added longer studs in case I need to use small spacers for fine tuning. An offset of 20mm may work for me since I could use a 7mm spacer effectively making the wheel a 13mm offset. But If I reinstall my camber plates I could fine tune using thinner spacers if needed, causing the tire to sit into the wheelhouse better with less poke.

Take the above info and apply it to the rear. An offset on the rear of about 40mm on the 19x11 wheel/305 tire also pulls the wheel out by about 13mm at the fender (similar to the front offset of 20mm). Inner clearance is not as big a problem in the rear, but with the ET40 offset we are safe since we know the ZL1 uses a 305 tire on a 11" wide wheel with a 43 mm offset. Very similar.

If we had to use a 7mm spacer up front for good strut clearance, we would also use a 7mm spacer at the rear making the effective rear offset of 33mm, this would push the rear tire towards the fender lip. Compared to the OE 1LE rear wheel/tire combo, the poke is 20mm.


Realistically we want to match the front's track/tread width, which is the outside of the left tire measuring over to the outside of the right tire. This is not a huge deal but the front to rear balance could slightly change. I do not have any experience on how much difference of the front and rear matters.
Alot of great info in this
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:42 AM   #17
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Using the calculator you had in the earlier post. I found that a 19x11 et17 would be 12mm (1/2 in) closer on the inside than a stock ss wheel and stick out 48mm (1.9 in) farther than the stock ss front

I am going to look and do some measuring when i get home
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:52 PM   #18
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How much camber are you running? How far do they stick out? Thanks for the picture
I run varying amounts of camber but the photo I uploaded was around -2.5 camber. The tire at the top is actually flush with the top of the fenders if looking straight down. It's when you look at the bottom that you notice the poke. IMO a little poke isn't too bad unless you don't like the aggressive look.

You do realize that when you get the RE71s that they can only be rotated front to rear without dismounting them and flipping. So if you run different ET front to rear then you are screwed. I run the same offset (+23) on all four corners and use a custom billet 5mm spacer on the front to push out the front tires away from the struts. I run a totally square setup (exact same tracking width front to rear) that actually makes decent front grip but it jumps into oversteer easily if you lead foot it too much. I may go with 315s in the rears later this summer to see if it helps the oversteer.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLEE View Post
This is with the 20s though right. That isnt bad at all. So with those specs on a 19x11 would we have any clearance issues at all on the inside?

I see that with et 13 it is 8mm closer than the stock ss wheel
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLEE View Post
Using the calculator you had in the earlier post. I found that a 19x11 et17 would be 12mm (1/2 in) closer on the inside than a stock ss wheel and stick out 48mm (1.9 in) farther than the stock ss front

I am going to look and do some measuring when i get home
Yes, the pics were with my OE 1LE 20"s.
Well, with an ET17 front, on my 1LE, the 19x11 would be about 4mm closer to the strut compared to my OE tire/wheel. But If I used my camber plates, then there would be no problem as I could attain my camber at the plate and not the spindle. I just like the fact of an offset that allows me to fine tune depending on which hard parts are used.

I don't know your current wheel/tire specs, so I can't comment on what the clearance comparisons, but you could first compare your wheels/tires to my OE 1LE, 20x10 ET23/20x11 ET43, 285/35 all around. I'm curious as to how our combos compare at the strut clearance. I am guessing the OE 1LE setup is closer to the strut than yours, even with a conservative factory alignment. Since I am currently right to the max on camber, for which I cannot get any closer to the strut, this is a good data point on what we can get away with on the offsets. Remember I mentioned the variable of different brands of tires, and how, given the same size spec, that some will actually size wider or narrower. My OE Goodyear F1 SuperCar tires have a rim protector and that takes away from the clearance, while other brands may not have that protector.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie killer View Post
I run varying amounts of camber but the photo I uploaded was around -2.5 camber. The tire at the top is actually flush with the top of the fenders if looking straight down. It's when you look at the bottom that you notice the poke. IMO a little poke isn't too bad unless you don't like the aggressive look.

You do realize that when you get the RE71s that they can only be rotated front to rear without dismounting them and flipping. So if you run different ET front to rear then you are screwed. I run the same offset (+23) on all four corners and use a custom billet 5mm spacer on the front to push out the front tires away from the struts. I run a totally square setup (exact same tracking width front to rear) that actually makes decent front grip but it jumps into oversteer easily if you lead foot it too much. I may go with 315s in the rears later this summer to see if it helps the oversteer.
Good info Zombie and your car looks good. Thank You. So with your 5mm spacer, you have an effective front offset of ET18, damn good match to the ET17 we talked about.
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:53 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
Yes, the pics were with my OE 1LE 20"s.
Well, with an ET17 front, on my 1LE, the 19x11 would be about 4mm closer to the strut compared to my OE tire/wheel. But If I used my camber plates, then there would be no problem as I could attain my camber at the plate and not the spindle. I just like the fact of an offset that allows me to fine tune depending on which hard parts are used.

I don't know your current wheel/tire specs, so I can't comment on what the clearance comparisons, but you could first compare your wheels/tires to my OE 1LE, 20x10 ET23/20x11 ET43, 285/35 all around. I'm curious as to how our combos compare at the strut clearance. I am guessing the OE 1LE setup is closer to the strut than yours, even with a conservative factory alignment. Since I am currently right to the max on camber, for which I cannot get any closer to the strut, this is a good data point on what we can get away with on the offsets. Remember I mentioned the variable of different brands of tires, and how, given the same size spec, that some will actually size wider or narrower. My OE Goodyear F1 SuperCar tires have a rim protector and that takes away from the clearance, while other brands may not have that protector.
My oe are 20x8 et 35 245 45, 20x9 et 40 275 45. Im pretty sure. Ill post more as soon as i get in from work

Profile actually might be 35 i forget

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Old 04-22-2017, 07:45 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Zombie killer View Post
I run varying amounts of camber but the photo I uploaded was around -2.5 camber. The tire at the top is actually flush with the top of the fenders if looking straight down. It's when you look at the bottom that you notice the poke. IMO a little poke isn't too bad unless you don't like the aggressive look.

You do realize that when you get the RE71s that they can only be rotated front to rear without dismounting them and flipping. So if you run different ET front to rear then you are screwed. I run the same offset (+23) on all four corners and use a custom billet 5mm spacer on the front to push out the front tires away from the struts. I run a totally square setup (exact same tracking width front to rear) that actually makes decent front grip but it jumps into oversteer easily if you lead foot it too much. I may go with 315s in the rears later this summer to see if it helps the oversteer.
Does the rear stick out any with that offset?
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Old 04-22-2017, 10:02 AM   #23
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Does the rear stick out any with that offset?
The tire is flush with top of the fender but the overall look appears to stick out. If that is your concern, then your best bet is to drop back to a 285 tire and reduce the required rim width to accommodate a tuck. The 305s are not going to fit on the front without a proper ET fit. I run the 285s too and they tuck quite nicely.
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:01 PM   #24
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The tire is flush with top of the fender but the overall look appears to stick out. If that is your concern, then your best bet is to drop back to a 285 tire and reduce the required rim width to accommodate a tuck. The 305s are not going to fit on the front without a proper ET fit. I run the 285s too and they tuck quite nicely.
Would your offsets fit with stock struts? With you mentioning front and rear being flush with fenders really has me wanting this, its exactly what im looking for. Are those f14s, if so are they deep or super deep concave
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:30 PM   #25
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Would your offsets fit with stock struts? With you mentioning front and rear being flush with fenders really has me wanting this, its exactly what im looking for. Are those f14s, if so are they deep or super deep concave
I am still running my original factory struts at 30k miles so yes the offsets do work. My black rims are F14 in the deep concave.
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Old 04-22-2017, 10:10 PM   #26
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I am still running my original factory struts at 30k miles so yes the offsets do work. My black rims are F14 in the deep concave.
Thanks for all this great info. Where is your spacer from? Knowing you have the setup i want and knowing it works is awesome. We now know 19x11 are definitely doable in the front with the top flush with the fender without too much work, plus it is a fully rotatable setup. Im guessing too that you are running 0 camber in the rear just to clear that up?
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Old 04-22-2017, 10:31 PM   #27
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Thanks for all this great info. Where is your spacer from? Knowing you have the setup i want and knowing it works is awesome. We now know 19x11 are definitely doable in the front with the top flush with the fender without too much work, plus it is a fully rotatable setup. Im guessing too that you are running 0 camber in the rear just to clear that up?
No, I run -1 degree or less camber in the rear.
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:05 AM   #28
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Comparison of your OE tires/wheels to my OE 1LE:
Front
Name:  Untitled.jpg
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Size:  103.2 KB
Rear
Name:  Untitled2.jpg
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Size:  102.5 KB

Now your OE to 305/30/19
Front- ET18 Just like ZombieKiller's (ET23 w/ 5mm spacer)
Name:  Untitled3.jpg
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Rear ET23
Name:  Untitled4.jpg
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Size:  102.5 KB

Since we know that with max camber (via the spindle) on my 1LE, I cannot get any closer to the strut. A 19x11/30 with an effective offset of ET18 is even closer by about 5mm. This may also apply to you.
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