IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[John_C]

Originally Posted by hammdo

OK, this is a bit of a long one, so I'll break each up into their own sections

Coil Harness

ABS/StabiliTrak

VVT Delete

This is the coil harness.

One of the harness came in today -- big difference. Wire length is longer and, you had to pay attention to how the harness is installed - remember, these are on the 'back' of a coil bracket, so, looking @ this:



Now arranged:



You can see how much longer the new ones are and, the connector differences.

NOTE:

We need to setup the harness backwards (I believe these are directional). so, when I removed the harness cover, I flipped the harness and now #2 connector is to the right -- I then 'dotted' them so I know which one went where.

Here is the part #:



Routed the coil harness where the previous one was -- worked perfect and, lot more wire to route correctly. This did solve the 'miss' @ idle but, did not solve the StabiliTrak/ABS error. Also, the % of Alcohol has not blipped yet, -- have to wait until the ABS is taken care of..

-Don

Is that PN# for the coil harness good for a 2010 SS L99, too?

I'm doing a DOD/AFM delete but keeping VVT.

[ABADZL1]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w0cv6LwCDjg

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by John_C

How do you remove the cap to expose the pins (#40 for flex) on the pcm harness?

BigMatt shows this:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497750

Its very detailed...

ABADZL1 set this video to help (I just embedded it -- IT IS NOT a DIY for Flex Fuel, just info on the connector and how to insert a pin):



-Don

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by John_C

Is that PN# for the coil harness good for a 2010 SS L99, too?

I'm doing a DOD/AFM delete but keeping VVT.

Yep, its the 'upgrade' set.

Appears those years ('10, '11) had heat issues with the connector -- you'll see the wires are longer and, the connectors are totally different.

-Don

[hammdo]

Updated my wiper blades and the radiator cap -- noticed a big difference on the radiator cap -- went on easier and fit much better...



Part numbers shown above...

-Don

[ABADZL1]

Did you get the "Low Drag" wipers? For better high speed cornering.

[hammdo]

Factory with the winglets/scoops on them ;o)

-Don

[hammdo]

Well, it took a while, but I finally got the bigger trans cooler in place.

I basically had to put the bigger trans cooler out front, then the oil cooler behind it. While doing all of that, I had to re-tighten all the cooler and coolant clamps/fittings again -- its a yearly thing now.

I didn't do the an fittings -- anfittings.com had an issue with their site so I stuck with the fittings in the kit and, some 1/2 NPT to 3/8 barb so I would be able to use the existing ADM hoses - worked just fine.

Here are the series of pics:

Test Fitting:









Custom bracket for the trans cooler:





Hose routing and clearance.
NOTE the trim 'edge' to prevent 'chaffing':





All in place:





I wanted to paint the cooler black, but no-one had the radiator paint and I was not going to wait -- I'll buy it and have it on hand the next time I remove the bumper -- then I'll make it 'stealth' ;o)

I did have to trim up the upper grill so it would fit and not bind with the trans cooler -- worked fine -- that took longer than the trans cooler install ;o)

I'll get some pics of that later...

After all of that, here are my temps:

63° Ambient @ 77 MPH (in a 75 MPH zone) @ 3 AM (little traffic at that time ;o)

IAT2: 87°
Coolant: 174°
Oil: 219°

Trans: 114° -- yep, I call that a success! Highest the trans temps got was 132° after shutdown, restart, then idle (after filling up with E85) -- once I got moving 'city driving' now, got down to 124°

So this BIG trans cooler works -- now, I know 114° is low, but I don't normally drive it when its cold. What I really liked was virtually NO temp increase on IAT2s, Coolant, or Oil -- again, that is @ 63°, the real test will be when it gets in the 100's...

BTW, the trans cooler IS mounted @ the bottom of the bumper -- it is NOT flexing around ;o). I used the brackets included with the trans kit -- nice I didn't have to 'make' some...

Overall, this will help when road racing for sure!

I'll eventually use an fittings/hoses, but for now, it will suffice!

-Don

[hammdo]

Here are some pics where I 'routed' the grill to fit the cooler:









Fitment was perfect -- and, lots of directed air (FlowTie really helps here!)

-Don

[ABADZL1]

Surprised you haven't done an interchiller yet. You probably don't have much room left anywhere tho. Lol

[hammdo]

Not trackable. Only reason I haven't done one. Not worth it if ac is off while road racing. Normal driving I'm not to concerned with the IAT2 temps. You're right, where the heck would I put it ;o)

If I dragged raced, heck yeah. I'd also would do the electric water pump to drag.

Those days are done for me. I enjoy the road racing much more ;o)...

-Don

[ABADZL1]

The one for the zl1 can run just the chiller. Or both. It's advertised to not drip water during chiller only selection

[hammdo]

True, but they said for drag only when I asked. With me staying in the 5k rpm range it would only be helping in turns and not for very long as you gas it out of the turns.

It's the old adage, how much horsepower and for how long ;o) would love it, but at least he was honest with me about road course work...

-Don

[ABADZL1]

Yeah not the best for road course