Finally...twin turbos for my LFX - Page 10 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Can't_C_Me · 12-29-2014, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HP Turbine

To sum it up quickly RX died. They made some hack cars. Lot's of money issues.

+1 and their cans aren't built properly. After a few boost pulls they begin to rattle internally causing check valve failure and blow by.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fabberge

i don't mind revising the kit to include a different catch can setup but i am not sure of options and what's out there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sycraft

Call mightymouse

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Yeah take Sycraft advice many of us switched to the MM PVC can (for boost applications) and are HAPPY!
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Size: 104.9 KB

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JantzenOKC · 12-29-2014, 08:20 PM

Got it all pretty much buttoned up today and downloaded the new tune for it. I think I did it right but it would be nice to know it has the new calibration for sure. Is there a way to verify that it took the new tune and that I did everything right? This is my first time using hptuner.

I haven't switched out the plugs yet so I just wanted to start it and make sure everything was working right. I let it run for about one minute and noticed the scavenge pump wasn't working and it blew a pretty good cloud of smoke out. I never drove it or revved it, just let it idle.. for a minute no more than two minutes and shut it off. The problem was I was missing a fuse in their wire jumper for the fuse block. It only had one fuse in it but apparently you have to put the one you removed back in it. I didn't know.

So I got the pump working(which I should have made sure was working before starting!) and started it back up and no more smoke and I can hear it working. But dripping some oil out of the aluminum gaskets at downpipe/turbo connections. I heard an exhaust leak there too I think. Obviously theres oil in there but I don't think it was that much. Should I just take the filters off and make sure it looks ok in there? I know the scavenge pumps working its pumping oil up to the valve cover.

*SSE 4 2SS* · 12-29-2014, 08:49 PM

FYI on the oil scavenge block like are on my car...

TTI, George has them available for purchase, they are billet items. Very nice pieces... Mine are pre-billet offerings... With a drilled and welded piece rather than a complete billet piece..

Fabberge · 12-29-2014, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Can't_C_Me

Yeah take Sycraft advice many of us switched to the MM PVC can (for boost applications) and are HAPPY!
Attachment 683542

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i'll call him. my biggest thing is that it needs to be a bolt-on solution

sycraft · 12-29-2014, 09:36 PM

It is. His name is David Childress get a boost can and a breather

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JantzenOKC · 12-29-2014, 09:48 PM

Hey Fabberge, what gap do you recommend for the NGK plugs that came with the kit?

JantzenOKC · 12-29-2014, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

FYI on the oil scavenge block like are on my car...

TTI, George has them available for purchase, they are billet items. Very nice pieces... Mine are pre-billet offerings... With a drilled and welded piece rather than a complete billet piece..

I bet those are nice, I'll have to check them out. I do want to upgrade to the turbowerx pump someday. I just think I would be able to trust it alot more. I need to slow down on my spending though... my autos are loving it but my bank account is not!

HP Turbine · 12-30-2014, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

Hey Fabberge, what gap do you recommend for the NGK plugs that came with the kit?

I need to write down my gap. I keep forgetting. But I had quite a large gap when I got the car back. On the highway under peak boost I would get Misfires. I think the NGK plugs come at .044 or .045. I would start at around .032 and work your way down if needed. I think I have mine way down there.

sycraft · 12-30-2014, 11:58 AM

I am at .032 as well

JantzenOKC · 12-30-2014, 02:06 PM

I went ahead and gapped them at .030.. fighting a couple little oil leaks nothing major. The turbos have a little clicky sound to them. Not sure if it's an exhaust leak or just the way the turbos sound. Never had a turbo car before. I can hear it out of the tailpipe too so I'm sure it's normal.

JantzenOKC · 12-30-2014, 08:13 PM

My AFR gauge came in today so I cut a hole in the downpipe and got the bung welded in. Need to shoot some high heat paint on it in the morning.

Still waiting on the tru-boost was hoping it would come today but no luck. Also have oil leaking at the distribution block so need to take that back apart and redo all those connections. Teflon tape this time instead of the liquid thread sealer I used. I can't wait to drive this thing!! Just need more time to spend on it. Ive been keeping track of my time and I've spent about 18 hours on it total so far. Could have worked faster but trying to make it nice.

JantzenOKC · 12-30-2014, 08:20 PM

Also, when I was changing my plugs I noticed some oil in one of the tubes. The tube seal was all dry and the electrode part of the plug was dry so must be getting in where the tube goes into the head? Only 32K on the motor so I cleaned it up and I'll check on it again later.

MagnumForceGB · 12-30-2014, 08:43 PM

That is crankcase pressure getting in through the valve cover seals. If you ever took the valve covers off they have gaskets on them around the spark plug tubes. If the crankcase isn't evac'd or vacuumed it will leak into there.

Mine used to do that until I put my crankcase under a vacuum.

sycraft · 12-30-2014, 08:51 PM

Yep. Where is that wide band at.. shouldn't it be after the turbos?. I am not a turbo guy so I may be wrong. Need to have good vacuum or at least a free vent out when needed. The oil cap one you have does not flow much especially if it has a pcv valve. Get the 1le separator or mightymouse oil cap breather asap

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12-29-2014, 08:20 PM	#128
JantzenOKC Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 3,073	Got it all pretty much buttoned up today and downloaded the new tune for it. I think I did it right but it would be nice to know it has the new calibration for sure. Is there a way to verify that it took the new tune and that I did everything right? This is my first time using hptuner. I haven't switched out the plugs yet so I just wanted to start it and make sure everything was working right. I let it run for about one minute and noticed the scavenge pump wasn't working and it blew a pretty good cloud of smoke out. I never drove it or revved it, just let it idle.. for a minute no more than two minutes and shut it off. The problem was I was missing a fuse in their wire jumper for the fuse block. It only had one fuse in it but apparently you have to put the one you removed back in it. I didn't know. So I got the pump working(which I should have made sure was working before starting!) and started it back up and no more smoke and I can hear it working. But dripping some oil out of the aluminum gaskets at downpipe/turbo connections. I heard an exhaust leak there too I think. Obviously theres oil in there but I don't think it was that much. Should I just take the filters off and make sure it looks ok in there? I know the scavenge pumps working its pumping oil up to the valve cover. __________________ 3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph

12-29-2014, 08:49 PM	#129
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,799	FYI on the oil scavenge block like are on my car... TTI, George has them available for purchase, they are billet items. Very nice pieces... Mine are pre-billet offerings... With a drilled and welded piece rather than a complete billet piece.. __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

12-29-2014, 09:36 PM	#131
sycraft COTW 5/06/2013 Drives: 2017 Corvette Grand Sport-Ho-Vette Join Date: May 2012 Location: Milford, Michigan Posts: 3,201 View My Garage	It is. His name is David Childress get a boost can and a breather Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk __________________ 2017 Grand Sport, Borla X Pipe.....Enough Said

12-29-2014, 09:48 PM	#132
JantzenOKC Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 3,073	Hey Fabberge, what gap do you recommend for the NGK plugs that came with the kit? __________________ 3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph

12-30-2014, 11:58 AM	#135
sycraft COTW 5/06/2013 Drives: 2017 Corvette Grand Sport-Ho-Vette Join Date: May 2012 Location: Milford, Michigan Posts: 3,201 View My Garage	I am at .032 as well __________________ 2017 Grand Sport, Borla X Pipe.....Enough Said

12-30-2014, 02:06 PM	#136
JantzenOKC Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 3,073	I went ahead and gapped them at .030.. fighting a couple little oil leaks nothing major. The turbos have a little clicky sound to them. Not sure if it's an exhaust leak or just the way the turbos sound. Never had a turbo car before. I can hear it out of the tailpipe too so I'm sure it's normal. __________________ 3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph

12-30-2014, 08:13 PM	#137
JantzenOKC Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 3,073	My AFR gauge came in today so I cut a hole in the downpipe and got the bung welded in. Need to shoot some high heat paint on it in the morning. Still waiting on the tru-boost was hoping it would come today but no luck. Also have oil leaking at the distribution block so need to take that back apart and redo all those connections. Teflon tape this time instead of the liquid thread sealer I used. I can't wait to drive this thing!! Just need more time to spend on it. Ive been keeping track of my time and I've spent about 18 hours on it total so far. Could have worked faster but trying to make it nice. Attached Images __________________ 3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph

12-30-2014, 08:20 PM	#138
JantzenOKC Drives: '13 2LT/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 3,073	Also, when I was changing my plugs I noticed some oil in one of the tubes. The tube seal was all dry and the electrode part of the plug was dry so must be getting in where the tube goes into the head? Only 32K on the motor so I cleaned it up and I'll check on it again later. Attached Images __________________ 3.6L Twin Turbo V6 Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension 10.75 @ 131mph

12-30-2014, 08:43 PM	#139
MagnumForceGB Drives: Fastest 2010 Camaro V6 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Newcastle, OK Posts: 3,571 View My Garage	That is crankcase pressure getting in through the valve cover seals. If you ever took the valve covers off they have gaskets on them around the spark plug tubes. If the crankcase isn't evac'd or vacuumed it will leak into there. Mine used to do that until I put my crankcase under a vacuum. __________________ Camaro V6 = 11.268 @ 120.11

12-30-2014, 08:51 PM	#140
sycraft COTW 5/06/2013 Drives: 2017 Corvette Grand Sport-Ho-Vette Join Date: May 2012 Location: Milford, Michigan Posts: 3,201 View My Garage	Yep. Where is that wide band at.. shouldn't it be after the turbos?. I am not a turbo guy so I may be wrong. Need to have good vacuum or at least a free vent out when needed. The oil cap one you have does not flow much especially if it has a pcv valve. Get the 1le separator or mightymouse oil cap breather asap Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk __________________ 2017 Grand Sport, Borla X Pipe.....Enough Said Last edited by sycraft; 12-30-2014 at 09:06 PM.