Really Confused after driving SS Hot wheels and ZL1

[2012InfernoSS]

Originally Posted by ItsBroke

I think numbers on paper should be taken with a grain of salt. What you're reading are specs, not real world. The best way to know what the real HP numbers are is to look in the Dyno threads: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36676 & http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114824

Look for posts from members who've dyno'ed their stock trims.

Dyno dont tell much either, all dynos are different, they are a tool used to tune.. But you can see what your mods have added if you get a base dyno then an after mod dyno from the same place..

Go to a used lot and testdrive an SS but still they put low oct. fuel in it so its still not going to be %100 but atleast it will be broke in.

If you need more power add cam/ blower or w/e you feel you got to have to get it to were you wanna be. Added a ECS kit to mine and looking to do heads and cam with a fuel upgrade next and I think ill be happy

[carman II]

Originally Posted by JoshBobGuptaMarley

Lag is the first thing you upgrade and correct if you've done your homework on this site.

I'd be willing to bet 75% of the issue with the new SS is the DBW calibration (driven by fuel mileage, drivetrain warranty and other requirements). Many ways to deal with this issue and replicate the more instantaneous throttle response experienced in earlier muscle cars.

[cvp33]

I wrestled with another dilemma. Choice #1 (no particular order) was to get a 1LE SS and mod the hell out of it up to 650rwhp, Choice #2 was to get a ZL1 and stick to cosmetic mods...surprisingly expensive. After going through mod hell with my CTS-V I decided on #2. Very happy.

[Jims Mongoose]

You all make good points. That is why we talk.
That is exactly my issue cvp33. I am not sure which way to go but GM would make it alot easier and not void warrantee if they would just horsepower. Sling shot has a good point with the Vette problem. Can't have a Camaro outperform a Vette. But a ZL1 will already outperform standard vette I believe.

I have feeling that the new Z06 and ZR1 will also have horsepower bumps and with the lighter chassis will still outperform Camaro in a straight line and certainly in handling in stock form.

Please weigh in more on horsepower suggestions. Maybe someone at GM is listening.

How sweet would a Lingenfelter Z28 LS7 be. Oh my god

Jim

[Firefighter]

All I know is that my 2013 2SS/1LE with NPP runs like the proverbial "Scalded Ass Ape" ... break it in right, keep premium fuel in it and she will keep you happy. If I were to get a ZL1 I would only buy a manual.

Sent from my friggin Droid by two thumbs using Tapatalk 2 or whatever the ish it's called....

[cvp33]

Not sure about the Z06 and ZR1 upgrades. CAFE restrictions are going to get stupid. The other premium performance cars are getting it done with less cubes and more technology, i.e. twin turbos and AWD help the S8's and AMG's putting down sub 3.5 0-60 times. I suspect you've seen the last of the ZL1-like performance recipe. Big power in a very heavy car that's super thirsty.

I like the total package of the ZL1 and anything from Lingenfelter, SLP and others would just feel like a tuner version......well because it is. That plus the mod-hell stories and really you only have one choice if you want to preserve a warranty.

[cvp33]

Originally Posted by Comrando

At least GM allows you to tune. Chrysler ECUs are all encrypted now.

The drivetrain is designed to handle a specific amount of power. The 1LE and ZL1 have different transmissions, driveshafts, axles, etc. than an SS.
So if you want to buy a Camaro to mod start with a 1LE.

Not anymore. Diablo has cracked or has been given the encryption code for Chrysler ECU's. Edelbrock is working on a 300c SRT8 with tuning and carb approval. Early word is 600+ HP with upgraded injectors.

[Jims Mongoose]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

All I know is that my 2013 2SS/1LE with NPP runs like the proverbial "Scalded Ass Ape" ... break it in right, keep premium fuel in it and she will keep you happy. If I were to get a ZL1 I would only buy a manual.

Sent from my friggin Droid by two thumbs using Tapatalk 2 or whatever the ish it's called....

I bet it does. Also With the points that Comrando made about the drive train. I am better off going with the 1LE or ZL1 in a manual as you say.

cvp33, what does it mean when you say the Lingenfelter just feels like a tuner version. Is that a bad thing? Are there really alot of nightmare stories about these modified cars from Lingen or Hennessey, SLP etc?

Also isn't it true that if you stick to the 750HP version from Hennessey that he warantees the power train.

I'm so confused. Okay just order me a Z28 with the LS7 bored out 100 over and prepared by whomever Grumpy Jenkins protege is.

Jim

[cvp33]

I've driven SLP and Lingenfelter cars vs their GM counter parts. To me they look and feel like a tuner car. A group of parts put together to try and mimick a Z06, ZR1 or ZL1. I'd rather have the real thing to be honest. You can still bring your Z-car to Lingenfelter and get the power add-ons and the warranty and still have a real Z-car. My $.02.

[TDevilsG]

You'll see sluggish performance come up significantly in threads around here...there is definitely a break in period. I'm about 4500 miles in and the car feels faster everytime I drive it. I'm expecting the Zl1 to be the same. And by the way, the car is deceptively fast...its just a heavy car. You don't really realize how fast you are going until you look at the speedometer. It may not be as nimble off the line as the mustang is but I think the overall ride is smoother.

[Jims Mongoose]

Originally Posted by cvp33

I've driven SLP and Lingenfelter cars vs their GM counter parts. To me they look and feel like a tuner car. A group of parts put together to try and mimick a Z06, ZR1 or ZL1. I'd rather have the real thing to be honest. You can still bring your Z-car to Lingenfelter and get the power add-ons and the warranty and still have a real Z-car. My $.02.

Now I think I understand about the tuner car thing. I guess the closer you stay to the original GM Car the better off you are. That is a ZL1 with fairly minor upgrades to blower pulleys, heads and stuff gives you the 750 hp while still maintaining the original design. Going crazy to 1000 hp with twin turbos will give you the tuner car feel. I like the 750 HP option.

I think a bored out LS7 without supercharger, but with Cam, headers etc will get me close to early muscle car feel. Ahh a black Z28. Come back grumpy we need you.

Tdevilsg also makes good points about the weight and break in.
Another point is that my Ram Air IV Gto had the stock polyglass tires so it was easy to break them loose. Which helps with the responsive feel.

Scary to think that those CAFE stds could be our demise.

Better put in a preorder for that Z28.

Jim

[2cnd chance]

Originally Posted by Jims Mongoose

I bet it does. Also With the points that Comrando made about the drive train. I am better off going with the 1LE or ZL1 in a manual as you say.

cvp33, what does it mean when you say the Lingenfelter just feels like a tuner version. Is that a bad thing? Are there really alot of nightmare stories about these modified cars from Lingen or Hennessey, SLP etc?

Also isn't it true that if you stick to the 750HP version from Hennessey that he warantees the power train.

I'm so confused. Okay just order me a Z28 with the LS7 bored out 100 over and prepared by whomever Grumpy Jenkins protege is.

Jim

I don't believe your gonna wanna bore out an LS7, but you can do a number of things to raise its HP/TQ.

[cvp33]

I'd rather take my ZL1 to Lingenfelter and move the power up a good hundred to 600+ at the wheels. Injectors, pulley, cam and done. The ZL1 already has the handling, just needs a few more ponies to overcome its heft. I'm not willing to give up A/C, sound deadening, etc. to pick up a few ticks on a road course.

[CamaroJim56]

As others have said.

I had a 2011 2LT RS, and was way underwhelmed when I test drove the 2SS, did not seem to be that much more powerful. Now that it has 1700 miles on it, I cannot say that. You really do need to break it in and loosen it up. Also as others have said, you stomp on it and when you look at the speedometer you realize it does fly.

Good luck.

Jim