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Old 03-12-2011, 04:49 PM   #1
jasycz28
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Stock motor and 18" Drag radials equals bogggg.

STREET TIRES:
I ran a best of 13.3 with a 2.2 spinning 60ft. Stock

DRAG RADIALS:
I ran a best of 13.4 with a 2.1 bogging 60ft. Stock

Do some mods before you get drag radials.

I was hoping to get into the 12's with sticky tires but I ended up going slower. I was even doing 5k launchs and bogging. I guess I need more power now.
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:13 PM   #2
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Thats your driving man not the car! Sorry not bashing you, once you figure out how to launch with the new tires you will be in the 12s easy. A good driver should easy run mid 12s in a stocker with tires.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:21 PM   #3
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Thats your driving man not the car! Sorry not bashing you, once you figure out how to launch with the new tires you will be in the 12s easy. A good driver should easy run mid 12s in a stocker with tires.
5K side stepping the clutch and I bog, 5K slipping the clutch and I bog. What can I be doing wrong? Now the clutch did stick to the floor twice but after waiting for a while it seemed fine. So please tell me, I hope I am doing something wrong so I can fix it but I don't think so. I had 1.6-1.7 60ft's in my 99 camaro all day. Would not having TPMS in the rears tires affect anything other than just having the warning light?
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:38 PM   #4
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The only time mine bogged is when I left the traction control and stabilitrac ON.
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:02 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by jasycz28 View Post
5K side stepping the clutch and I bog, 5K slipping the clutch and I bog. What can I be doing wrong? Now the clutch did stick to the floor twice but after waiting for a while it seemed fine. So please tell me, I hope I am doing something wrong so I can fix it but I don't think so. I had 1.6-1.7 60ft's in my 99 camaro all day. Would not having TPMS in the rears tires affect anything other than just having the warning light?
I would suggest a 3K slip, then once the car gets rolling dump it. If you're bogging at a 5K side step then you need to lower the RPM's and slip a little more. It's a very fine science. We're talking about tenths of seconds here. It will take practice to find what works for you.
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:14 AM   #6
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The only time mine bogged is when I left the traction control and stabilitrac ON.
All traction controls were off.
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:14 AM   #7
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I would suggest a 3K slip, then once the car gets rolling dump it. If you're bogging at a 5K side step then you need to lower the RPM's and slip a little more. It's a very fine science. We're talking about tenths of seconds here. It will take practice to find what works for you.
I guess its back to the track next weekend to see what happens. FML
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Old 03-13-2011, 01:10 AM   #8
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What size tires? What were your traps between the two. You pulled a better 60 on the dr's but ran slower so it's not the tires, unless there to big or something.
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Old 03-13-2011, 05:30 AM   #9
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How many miles on the car and have you ever done the fuel map fuse pull?
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:57 AM   #10
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Most likely it is either your clutch (half way up pedal) that is causing your problem or could also be clutch packs in the rear. What are the full times of your runs ie 60' 1/8 mi 1/4 mile trap speed. Mine did the same thing after racing it many times. Check for one wheel burn outs (clutch packs in rear) or weak burn outs. If the pedal keeps coming half way up I would change the clutch. You can try and change the fluid in the hydraulic system completely (at a shop) then after every few runs drain the reservoir with a syringe and refill, this may fix your problem. Hope it helps.
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:11 AM   #11
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Although I am in an A6, quite a few guys at the shop had the exact same issue with the clutch slicking. Andy at ADM Performance has has a fix for this - it's some kinda second spring setup. You can call ADM (214-228-8782) to find out more about it.
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:54 AM   #12
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No need. New clutch and rear. I would never use a "fix" like that. The clutch is designed improperly and the spring will just make things worse in my opinion. The key is clean fluid and not forcing the clutch to return.
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:13 PM   #13
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No need. New clutch and rear. I would never use a "fix" like that. The clutch is designed improperly and the spring will just make things worse in my opinion. The key is clean fluid and not forcing the clutch to return.
Like a said, I have an A6 so I don't know a lot about the subject. I just know the several that have installed the spring kit have not had anymore problems/issues for over a year now. The only time people are going to a new clutch is when they go above 600rwhp, then they drop in a ZR1 clutch.
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