Need advice on amp

[a1cmatt]

Right now I have a Diesel Audio ns-1000 with the following stats.
Maximum power output @ 2 ohms 500W x 2CH=1000W
Total channel output power:
200W x 2CH @ 2 ohms (400W) less than 0.5% THD.
150W x 2CH @ 4 ohms (300W) less than 0.3% THD.
Bridged 400W x 1 CH @ 4 ohms.

I'm thinking that it might not be enough to power for my kenwoods 12's
2 Kenwood 1200w kfc-w3013ps
Power Handling Peak: 1200 Watts
Power Handling RMS: 400 Watts
Frequency Response: 34Hz - 300Hz

Should I try bridging it first and seeing if it pushes the 12's or just get the amp i been looking at on amazon for 105
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

or maybe this boss one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

Any suggestions on which of the 3 i should use.

[kiteman]

Originally Posted by a1cmatt

Right now I have a Diesel Audio ns-1000 with the following stats.
Maximum power output @ 2 ohms 500W x 2CH=1000W
Total channel output power:
200W x 2CH @ 2 ohms (400W) less than 0.5% THD.
150W x 2CH @ 4 ohms (300W) less than 0.3% THD.
Bridged 400W x 1 CH @ 4 ohms.

I'm thinking that it might not be enough to power for my kenwoods 12's
2 Kenwood 1200w kfc-w3013ps
Power Handling Peak: 1200 Watts
Power Handling RMS: 400 Watts
Frequency Response: 34Hz - 300Hz

Should I try bridging it first and seeing if it pushes the 12's or just get the amp i been looking at on amazon for 105
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

or maybe this boss one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

Any suggestions on which of the 3 i should use.

boss and power acoustik are two of the worst brands you could ever purchase car audio products from. don't even consider what amazon reviewers think they know about car audio either.

i've actually never heard of diesel, so i would say they are probably crap too. what you need to know about amplifiers and why they are crap vs. not, is that many brands are not CEMA 2006 certified, meaning no one ever tested their rated wattage to see if it was correct. there are a ton of manufacturers out there that just say "8,000W RMS Amp" when really it might push 150 watts RMS under load. they can get away with this because people like you believe their ratings and buy the amp anyway. now you know their marketing secrets, so you should stay away from them.

that being said i would be leery of any mono amp that has over 600 watts RMS that is under $250. there are brands worth looking into and there are brands worth skipping over entirely no matter if they fall into this price bracket. here is a pretty good comprehensive list below for a start.

lastly, doubling an amp's power means only increasing your volume by 3db. so if you want to go big like 2,000 watts or more, for a quality amp you're going to spend a lot of money. a 2,000 watt amp is only 6db over a 500w amp (500w x 2 = 1,000w (3db), 1,000w x 2 = 2,000w (3db)). and a good 500w amp you're going to find to be much more affordable, and a 500w amp is about 6db louder than what you have now (125w x 2 = 250w; 250w x 2 = 500w). 6db is a bigger increase than you might think, but once you start getting into the thousands of watts, the price per watt goes through the roof.

Good

Alpine (amplifiers, Type-R speakers and subs)
Altec Lansing
Alumapro
Ample Audio
Ascendant
Audio Development
Avionixx
Boston Acoustics
Cadence
Cerwin Vega (subs)
Clarion (head units)
Clifford (alarms)
Cliff designs
Coustic
Crossfire
Crystal
Directed (DEI)
Dynamat
Earthquake
Eaton
Helix
Hushmat
Illusion
Infinity
JBL (amplifiers)
JVC Digifine
Kenwood Excelon (HU)
Kicker
Kinetik (batteries)
Lunar
Massive Audio
Memphis Audio
MTX (amplifiers)
Orion (newer products)
Phoenix Gold (some models)
Pioneer- HU's
Polk Audio
Powerbass
Rockford Fosgate (Power Series amp and subs)
Second Skin (deadner)
Soundstream
SSA Audio
USAcoustics
Viper/DEI (alarms)

Highest Quality

a/d/s
Adire
Alpine (head units, signal processors)
Arc Audio
Audax
Audio Control
Audison
Brax
Butler Audio
CD Technologies (CDT)
Diamond Audio (HEX)
Digital Designs (DD)
DLS
DynAudio
Eclipse (Fujitsu Ten)
Esoteric Audio
FI Audio
Focal
Harrison Labs
Helix
Hertz
Image Dynamics (ID)
JL Audio (W6v2, W7. ZR components,Slash and HD series amps)
KEF Kar components
Kove
Luxman
McIntosh Laboratories
MMATS
Morel
Nakamichi (CD transports)
Ohio Alternator
Orion (older products)
OZ Audio
Pioneer Premiere (head units)
Precision Power (PPI) (Art series amps, old)
Rainbow
Resonant Engineering (RE) Older Stuff
Rockford Fosgate (older 1980s and 1990s models)
Sinfoni
Streetwirez
Stinger
Sundown Audio
Treo
Tru tech
US Amps (older amps)
Wrangler Alternators
XS Power (batteries)
Xtant
Zapco
Zed Audio

[a1cmatt]

almost 5 total stars with 27 reviews is good enough for me. I have bought lots of things through amazon only when seeing good reviews and I was always happy. I'm not looking for a bad ass system. I want some thump added to my boston acoustic. Thanks for the info but I'm looking to go the cheap route or spend nothing at all.

[sjmorrow]

Originally Posted by a1cmatt

almost 5 total stars with 27 reviews is good enough for me. I have bought lots of things through amazon only when seeing good reviews and I was always happy. I'm not looking for a bad ass system. I want some thump added to my boston acoustic. Thanks for the info but I'm looking to go the cheap route or spend nothing at all.

You asked for suggestions, and kiteman's recommendations are going to reflect the opinion of most people on here. It sounds like you are simply chasing the almighty wattage number, in which case you will get no sympathy from any REAL car audio enthusiasts. Pure wattage numbers do not translate to better or louder sound. If you are just interested in going as cheap as possible, then stick with the amp you have. You are not going to gain much (if anything) by switching to those POS amps.

Sorry if that came across as rude, just being honest with you

[a1cmatt]

Sorry I'm just kind of wanting to know about the 3 I was asking about. Not about top end amps that are going to cost more then what I want to spend.

[dmwhiteman]

If you must go cheap (which I mistakenly did and regret) get this:
http://www.amazon.com/Orion-CO8001-8...7101534&sr=8-1

I can vouch that it pushes my 2 12" Hifonics RMS 350w pretty well. Am looking for a little upgrade, but it does the job.

[justa25thTA]

you do get what you pay for. its a onetime purchase, quit being cheap.

[kiteman]

Originally Posted by a1cmatt

Thanks for the info but I'm looking to go the cheap route or spend nothing at all.

Originally Posted by a1cmatt

Sorry I'm just kind of wanting to know about the 3 I was asking about.

Originally Posted by kiteman

what you need to know about amplifiers and why they are crap vs. not, is that many brands are not CEMA 2006 certified, meaning no one ever tested their rated wattage to see if it was correct. there are a ton of manufacturers out there that just say "8,000W RMS Amp" when really it might push 150 watts RMS under load. they can get away with this because people like you believe their ratings and buy the amp anyway. now you know their marketing secrets, so you should stay away from them.

and a quote from one of the reviews for the first amp you posted on amazon:

I don't know what all these glowing reviews are for. There is no way that this thing is putting out the RMS watts that it is claiming. I had a 5 channel Soundstream Rub 5.800 before this one, and it blew this amp out of the water on the sub channel.. and it is only rated for 200 RMS!! This thing is claiming like 800+ RMS at 2 ohms? You're high. No way in heck.

don't say we didn't try to warn you

[a1cmatt]

How can you say its cheap? You have one? If everyone likes it then how would I not? Warn me about what? I didn't ask what amp should I buy. Just don't reply if you're not answering the actual question. How does that sound.

[kiteman]

Originally Posted by a1cmatt

How can you say its cheap? You have one? If everyone likes it then how would I not? Warn me about what? I didn't ask what amp should I buy. Just don't reply if you're not answering the actual question. How does that sound.

i would hardly call 20 people "everyone." and really i'm having a hard time understanding why you posted in the first place, since i am actually answering the question--do not buy any of those 3 amps. save the $100 for some xanax because it sounds like you could use some.

[MikeYoungSS1]

Originally Posted by sjmorrow

You asked for suggestions, and kiteman's recommendations are going to reflect the opinion of most people on here. It sounds like you are simply chasing the almighty wattage number, in which case you will get no sympathy from any REAL car audio enthusiasts. Pure wattage numbers do not translate to better or louder sound. If you are just interested in going as cheap as possible, then stick with the amp you have. You are not going to gain much (if anything) by switching to those POS amps.

Sorry if that came across as rude, just being honest with you

^^^What he said....when it comes to amps...you get what you pay for. It would be a better option to get a better amp and downgrade a tiny bit on speakers if money is a concern. All this depends on your end goal too.

[justa25thTA]

or buy used

[Double D Mods]

If your wanting an inexpensive amp that is nice I would recommend the Powerbass amps.
I would try a Powerbass asa 600.1 at 169.99 pus the ride
These are nice for the money.

[SSMickey]

The best car audio setup I have ever heard used just ONE 100watt Precision Power Amp driving over 10 speakers. IIRC this person went on with one more person to found JL Audio. Quantity means nothing if the quality is not there.