Brake Caliper Removal - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 05:19 PM

Hi,

I'm removing all my calipers in a couple weeks to have them sent off to be powder coated. I'm wondering if before I re-install do I need to bleed my brake & clutch lines? I'm wondering this since they use the same tank for the fluid. Thanks for any advice or if you can point me in the right direction. My next question will be what is the proper way to bleed and refill your clutch/brake lines? Thanks all

Buffnshine · 03-04-2012, 05:29 PM

+1

montreal2010yellow · 03-04-2012, 06:14 PM

If you are unexperienced, don't do it yourself. Safety before all...

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 06:19 PM

Could somebody provide a more intelligent answer than don't do it yourself.

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 06:28 PM

I can't see to find a "good" thread where someone has documented a proper way of bleeding the air out of there lines after and install. I know the gravity method is probably the way I will bleed my brake lines, but I'm hoping to find a thread on a step by step procedure for the SS brake lines. Thanks

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 06:42 PM

Does anyone have any additional info to add to this? I would like to know what the specs to the torque to yield bolts are that hold the calipers to the vehicle. I believe these are (2) 18mm bolts. Also I need some more info on the sequence of the bleeding (there are 2 bleeder valves per caliper), which one do you bleed first? Thanks all

#1 Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.

#2 Using a turkey baster, suck out as much of the old dark inky fluid as you can.

#3 Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. (Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces, it will remove the paint immediately.)

#4 Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid.

#5 Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.

#6 Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more).

#7 Using a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt, loosen the bleeder valves, but leave them closed. (A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help to loosen them).

#8 Using a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing works fine), push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt.

#9 Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder.)

#10 Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other "spacer" under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too close to the floor.

#11 Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.

#12 Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid.

#13 Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.

#14 Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.

#15 Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve.

#16 Shout "up" to your helper, who at this point should remove his foot from the pedal allowing it to move up.

#17 Repeat this process until new, clear fluid comes from the bleeder tube. (After every five (5) times the brake pedal is depressed, top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir get too low, or air will be sucked into the master cylinder.)

#18 Tighten the bleeder bolt.

#19 Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left rear wheel.

#20 Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the right front wheel.

#21 Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left front wheel.

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 08:18 PM

Does anyone have the correct order you would do it since there are 2 bleeder valves per caliper?

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 08:42 PM

Can anybody list some detail for this?

Fishdadddy · 03-04-2012, 10:43 PM

If you are not replacing the calipers right away, make sure you block off the lines. You don't want to let all the fluid drain out of the system

ztsmith86 · 03-04-2012, 11:27 PM

How do you block off the lines?

ztsmith86 · 03-08-2012, 09:25 PM

I still could really use someone to explain this in detail.

ztsmith86 · 03-08-2012, 09:25 PM

BUMP

Fishdadddy · 03-08-2012, 10:48 PM

What more would you like to know?

ztsmith86 · 03-09-2012, 07:52 AM

The bleeding procedure

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03-04-2012, 05:19 PM	#1
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	Brake Caliper Removal Hi, I'm removing all my calipers in a couple weeks to have them sent off to be powder coated. I'm wondering if before I re-install do I need to bleed my brake & clutch lines? I'm wondering this since they use the same tank for the fluid. Thanks for any advice or if you can point me in the right direction. My next question will be what is the proper way to bleed and refill your clutch/brake lines? Thanks all __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete Last edited by ztsmith86; 03-04-2012 at 06:17 PM.

03-04-2012, 05:29 PM	#2
Buffnshine So Cal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: '10 SS/RS, '06 HHR, '70 El Camino Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 2,589 View My Garage	+1 __________________ TEAM L99 - So Cal Camaro5 Race Team #27 9/5/09 Purchased #36962 Black 1SS/RS L99 "E-TCKT" Base Dyno 328hp/341tq @BBK meet Mods to Date: Window Tint 5% & 15%, ACC P13W Lighting, Adaptive DRL Harness, Ghost Armor, Lloyds "SS" Mats, Dash Plaque, Flowmaster Outlaw Exhaust, Drake Front Bowtie Delete, Stealth 3457 Chrome/Mirror Signal Bulbs, Grant Revolutions Steering Wheel, PFADT Sport Springs, Sway Bars, End Links, Trailing Arms, 4 Wheel Alignment, Hurst Auto Shifter and Paddle Shifter, Satin Black Rear Tail Light Bezels

03-04-2012, 06:14 PM	#3
montreal2010yellow Drives: 2 LT/RS YELLOW, AUTO., VIN NO. 602 Join Date: May 2010 Location: LAVAL (10 min. north of Montreal), CANADA Posts: 3,526 View My Garage	If you are unexperienced, don't do it yourself. Safety before all... __________________ T2 Facia, ACS TL1 Hood, ACS Winglets. G5CR CAI. Hotchsic Strut Brace and more...

03-04-2012, 06:19 PM	#4
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	Could somebody provide a more intelligent answer than don't do it yourself. __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-04-2012, 06:28 PM	#5
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	I can't see to find a "good" thread where someone has documented a proper way of bleeding the air out of there lines after and install. I know the gravity method is probably the way I will bleed my brake lines, but I'm hoping to find a thread on a step by step procedure for the SS brake lines. Thanks __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-04-2012, 06:42 PM	#6
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	Does anyone have any additional info to add to this? I would like to know what the specs to the torque to yield bolts are that hold the calipers to the vehicle. I believe these are (2) 18mm bolts. Also I need some more info on the sequence of the bleeding (there are 2 bleeder valves per caliper), which one do you bleed first? Thanks all #1 Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir. #2 Using a turkey baster, suck out as much of the old dark inky fluid as you can. #3 Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. (Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces, it will remove the paint immediately.) #4 Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. #5 Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir. #6 Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more). #7 Using a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt, loosen the bleeder valves, but leave them closed. (A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help to loosen them). #8 Using a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing works fine), push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt. #9 Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder.) #10 Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other "spacer" under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too close to the floor. #11 Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir. #12 Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. #13 Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir. #14 Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go. #15 Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve. #16 Shout "up" to your helper, who at this point should remove his foot from the pedal allowing it to move up. #17 Repeat this process until new, clear fluid comes from the bleeder tube. (After every five (5) times the brake pedal is depressed, top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir get too low, or air will be sucked into the master cylinder.) #18 Tighten the bleeder bolt. #19 Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left rear wheel. #20 Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the right front wheel. #21 Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left front wheel. __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-04-2012, 08:18 PM	#7
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	Does anyone have the correct order you would do it since there are 2 bleeder valves per caliper? __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-04-2012, 08:42 PM	#8
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	Can anybody list some detail for this? __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-04-2012, 10:43 PM	#9
Fishdadddy Drives: 2010 2SS/RS ; 1970 Firebird Formula Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 1,252 View My Garage	If you are not replacing the calipers right away, make sure you block off the lines. You don't want to let all the fluid drain out of the system

03-04-2012, 11:27 PM	#10
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	How do you block off the lines? __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-08-2012, 09:25 PM	#11
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	I still could really use someone to explain this in detail. __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-08-2012, 09:25 PM	#12
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	BUMP __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

03-08-2012, 10:48 PM	#13
Fishdadddy Drives: 2010 2SS/RS ; 1970 Firebird Formula Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 1,252 View My Garage	What more would you like to know?

03-09-2012, 07:52 AM	#14
ztsmith86 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ames, IA Posts: 331 View My Garage	The bleeding procedure __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic ---------------------- TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete