Help on Narrowing down Subs and Few Install Questions

[CamaroFTW]

Hey guys trying to finalize the speakers and amps for my car and would appreciate just a little more input.

Choices so far:

******** 2010-2011 Camaro Trunk Dual Sealed Subwoofer Box Two-Tone Vinyl Sub Box

2 x 12" Subs. Which should I choose of these that I narrowed down from all my research that are between ($150-250)and not sure if I need 2 or 4 ohm for the amp below?

1. JL Audio 12W3v3-4
2. RE Audio SXX12D2
3. RE Audio SEX12D2
4. Sundown Audio SA-12 D2

Amp: JL AUDIO HD1200/1 1-CHANNEL 1200 WATTS CAR AMPLIFIER (not sure if 2 or 4 ohm subs should be chosen?)

Speakers: Hybrid Audio Complete Car Speakers Clarus Fronts and Imagine Rears

Amp: JL AUDIO HD600/4 600W MAX CLASS D 4-CHANNEL POWER MOSFET AMPLIFIER

Also should I get these things to have the best setup I can (money aside)? Or is some of this unnecessary?

Kicker Big 3 Kit
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Big-3-Kit.html

300 Amp SPX High Output Alternator for 2010 Chevrolet Camaro 6.2L V8
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2010~...6-300-spx.html

Kinetik HC2000 (KHC2000) Battery
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SearchClickout[query_id]=10545468&SearchClickout[Ignore]=1

Capacitors??? 1 Farad Do I need? I would think not if battery and alternator upgrade.

Am I missing anything else? Thanks for any input.

[darkrider01]

I tried to answer this last night but my browser kept screwing up....

Any of those subs will be fine with the 1200/1 amp. The amp pushes the same power into 4 ohms as it does into 1.5 ohms. The only subs of those that concern me are the JL subs as they are rated for 500W RMS and the amp should be pushing around 600W RMS into them, so I wouldn't go that route. The other subs should be fine though.

Of course amps and speakers look fine.

I have mixed feelings about the Big 3 kit. I believe that the factory + wire is 1/0, or very close it it. I didn't strip mine, but it looked close to 1/0. Also, since your battery is in the back, and your alternator is up front, you need a LOT longer than the 5 foot pieces of wire in that kit. On the other hand, I'd be willing to bet you would use every piece in that kit elsewhere in your install.

If you have the budget for the alternator, go for it. 300A is serious overkill for 2000w, but I'm cool with overkill. Your total stereo draw at 100% (1800W) would be 150A, but unless you're doing competitions, you'll probably never see near that.

Great Battery.

You don't need a cap. With that alternator (or a sufficient alt) and that battery, you should not need a cap.

Questions:
1. Are you doing this install yourself?
2. You keeping the stock head unit?
3. Have you thought about adding a processor?

[CamaroFTW]

And I thought no one was going to answer me! Thank you darkrider for the input.
What am I missing on the RMS as the amp says 1200W RMS?? You say only 600?
So if it were your choice would you get 2 x 2 Ohm or 2 x 4 Ohm and why?

Good thinking on the Big 3. Yes that cable would need to be way longer! I will check it and see if that is necessary. Maybe only do the "Big 2"

Thanks for confirming no cap needed!

Yes I think I will try and install myself but will get a friend who is knowledgeable to help. No, I have a new Kenwood HD6990 head unit and Scoesche done in real carbon fiber. I have not though about a processor. Do I really need it? I do need the remote for the bass amp though I forgot!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-HD-RLC.html

Thanks for yours and anyone else s input!

[Kevinshawnm]

Im using that exact amp on those JL subs, and it sounds great. I also have the HD600/4.

[Kevinshawnm]

Thats and awesome alternator Btw!!!

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

And I thought no one was going to answer me! Thank you darkrider for the input.
What am I missing on the RMS as the amp says 1200W RMS?? You say only 600?
So if it were your choice would you get 2 x 2 Ohm or 2 x 4 Ohm and why?

Good thinking on the Big 3. Yes that cable would need to be way longer! I will check it and see if that is necessary. Maybe only do the "Big 2"

Thanks for confirming no cap needed!

Yes I think I will try and install myself but will get a friend who is knowledgeable to help. No, I have a new Kenwood HD6990 head unit and Scoesche done in real carbon fiber. I have not though about a processor. Do I really need it? I do need the remote for the bass amp though I forgot!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-HD-RLC.html

Thanks for yours and anyone else s input!

The reason I said 600W RMS is because you will be dividing that 1200W by 2 subs, so they will get 600W each. If you throw 1200W RMS into a sub that is mean to handle 600W RMS, it will not hold up very long

Getting 2 or 4 ohm subs really doesn't matter with that amp. I would probably get the RE SXX12D2's and run them at a 2ohm total load (the coils in each speaker would be wired in series for a 4 ohm load per sub, then run the 2 subs in parallel). That's the way I would do it with the subs you have listed.

As far as processor goes, it's really up to you. I can only speak for myself, but I put a Scosche kit, Pioneer AVH-P8400BH, and a JBL MS-8 into my car this weekend. I listened to it briefly before hooking the MS-8 up and it sounded great. After connecting the MS-8 and running the setup, it went from great to heavenly. The front stage now is incredible. If I close my eyes, it sounds like the sound is coming from inside my head. It kinda messes with my mind. I only suggested the processor because I figured that if you're dropping $1k in speakers, you may want some time alignment and more than 3 EQ bands. I might would have been fine without the MS-8 (my Pioneer has 8-band adjustable EQ, Auto EQ, and some time alignment) but I wanted to be sure. I read a lot of good information about the unit, and it's a lot easier to install when you have everything else apart. I ran my MS-8 display cable into my glove box - couldn't find anywhere acceptable to mount the display.

Here's a couple other things you might want to make sure you have:

1. Dynamat, etc. The car needs a lot of it.
2. Speaker spacers. I bought mine from Sub Thump. Front and rear.

[flyer08]

I agree id get some sound deadner, dynamat is kinda expensive but there are other brands out there

[=Stephens=]

Originally Posted by flyer08

I agree id get some sound deadner, dynamat is kinda expensive but there are other brands out there

Fatmat is way cheaper. I got some on Amazon, even cheaper than ebay

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by =Stephens=

Fatmat is way cheaper. I got some on Amazon, even cheaper than ebay

I actually got my Dynamat from Amazon. Bulk pack (36 sq.ft.) for $140 shipped. Love me some Amazon

[CamaroFTW]

This is why C5 is great...thanks for all the input so far. Darkrider, man you layout some detailed info brah! I was kind of leaning to the RE Audios myself as the reviews are so good and the price is about $50 under the JL's. Now I have to look at and consider a processor. I read the Audison Bit one though may be the best one to get(?) Thoughts?

As far as the sound deadener I did not list this as I have already start this a few months ago. I like the RAAMmat best (HERE) for the price to performance. I have already done both doors and have started the trunk. Will do the 6x9 shelf next. I wont go crazy and rip out all my car though..I am not that extreme!

Here some pics of my doors with RAAMmat and Ensolite covering for finishing ( I have to find the pics of the other metal side of the doors which were also done.:

[Kevinshawnm]

JBL MS-8

[jeepguy_1980]

Originally Posted by =Stephens=

Fatmat is way cheaper. I got some on Amazon, even cheaper than ebay

Fatmat is made from asphalt and not butyl. Dynamat is made from butyl. So are lots of the other brands, like the rammat that CamaroFTW recommended. From everything I have read, you should avoid Fatmat and the other asphalt based deadeners.

[CWI]

You should not need the alternator or a cap. I am running a PDX4.150 to Focal KRX2 speakers in front and Polk 6x9s in the rear (these will be replaced with Focals later.) I am also running two PDX 1.1000 amps, each to it's own 12" Alpine Type R sub in a ******** box. RMS output of these amps total over 2800 watts. I have yet to see any dimming of the lights or even a twitch of the voltage gauge. I have a Current meter partially installed so I can see how much current is being drawn by the system.

This is so loud and clean that it's too loud before there is noticeable distortion and still no noticeable impact on the electrical system. Using the right power cable is a huge factor. I used 1/0 from the battery to a distribution block and same on the ground to a block. Then I used 4 gauge from the blocks to the amps keeping the lengths at a minimum. It sounds awesome with the Boston head. Can't wait to hear it with a MS-8 installed. The Focal speakers are worth every penny and so are the PDX amps.

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

This is why C5 is great...thanks for all the input so far. Darkrider, man you layout some detailed info brah! I was kind of leaning to the RE Audios myself as the reviews are so good and the price is about $50 under the JL's. Now I have to look at and consider a processor. I read the Audison Bit one though may be the best one to get(?) Thoughts?

As far as the sound deadener I did not list this as I have already start this a few months ago. I like the RAAMmat best (HERE) for the price to performance. I have already done both doors and have started the trunk. Will do the 6x9 shelf next. I wont go crazy and rip out all my car though..I am not that extreme!

The Audison Bit One is great and I don't think anyone will deny that. The only problem with the Bit One is that it may take you months to get it dialed in properly - and that is with someone experienced with it doing the tuning. The JBL MS-8 does 90-95% of that for you automatically. I can point you to a great writeup about the MS-8 from someone who is more familiar with both the Bit One and the MS-8 if you like. I recommend the MS-8.

Originally Posted by Kevinshawnm

JBL MS-8

Yeah, I totally recommend this as well.

Originally Posted by CWIweldace

You should not need the alternator or a cap. I am running a PDX4.150 to Focal KRX2 speakers in front and Polk 6x9s in the rear (these will be replaced with Focals later.) I am also running two PDX 1.1000 amps, each to it's own 12" Alpine Type R sub in a ******** box. RMS output of these amps total over 2800 watts. I have yet to see any dimming of the lights or even a twitch of the voltage gauge. I have a Current meter partially installed so I can see how much current is being drawn by the system.

This is so loud and clean that it's too loud before there is noticeable distortion and still no noticeable impact on the electrical system. Using the right power cable is a huge factor. I used 1/0 from the battery to a distribution block and same on the ground to a block. Then I used 4 gauge from the blocks to the amps keeping the lengths at a minimum. It sounds awesome with the Boston head. Can't wait to hear it with a MS-8 installed. The Focal speakers are worth every penny and so are the PDX amps.

Sounds like you wired yours the exact same way I wired mine (1/0 to blocks with 4 Ga. to amps). I have not seen any issues with voltage drop either, but I'll stand by my statement that if he has the budget for it, it's never a bad upgrade.

I'd be very interested to know what kind of current your system is drawing. What kind of music are you listening to?