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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 1LT yellow non RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 691
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Spark plug question
Getting ready to replace my plugs this weekend. What is the preferred plug for the V6? So many out there, so many options. Want to ge the best performance out of my plugs. Thanks
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,069
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OEM the same plug that came in it is the best. There is no better performing plug. That's all marketing hype.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 IOM Camaro Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,446
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Quote:
This is what I read before I changed mine. Go with the ACDelco plugs. They're rated for 100K miles, but I went ahead and changed mine at 66K.
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,069
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ya there rated at 100,000 but most see improvement changing them around 70,000. The ignition systems in these new vehicles are very refined. they need the tight tolerance of the resistance of the oem plugs and wires to run at their peak. Aftermarket parts are made to fit many different vehicles so they make them to in the middle of the tolerance of all the vehicles so they will work on all those vehicles. Manufacturers also know that by the time your replacing 100,000 mile plugs and wires if there new ones don't perform as well you are more likely to blame it on the miles not there product.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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#5 |
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Banned
Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Convertible, IBM Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,015
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Any of you have any problems taking out the plugs after 70k miles or so? My bud a mechanic states to at least loosen them at 40k and re-install as some plugs just don't want to give up the ghost at 100k
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 LS M6, Black Join Date: May 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,045
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Use anti-seize on the plug threads.
John B.
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1995 Mitsubishi Montero SR 1987 Dodge Raider Turbo Project 1986 Mitsubishi Montero 2.4l FI Transplant |
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#7 |
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Helping Build America
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS,LS3 2013 Duramax 3500HD Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Freeport LPG Export
Posts: 3,836
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Never seize is not needed. Use the correct torque value (15 ft lb) on the LS3, and the plug will come out fine regardless of miles or time. If they are difficult to come out or strip threads while removing, they were probably over torqued. They only need tightened enough to compress the metal washer on them. In the old days I would tighten them finger tight with the socket plus 1/8 of a turn or about 22 degrees. Most plugs are nickel plated and won't corrode anyway.
There are many different types of anti seize compounds for use with different metals and alloys depending on service demands such as heat or exposure to environment. Just something to make a mess on spark plugs. Use it if it makes you feel better but I see no benefit. It's like nitrogen in tires. Normal air is 70% nitrogen, another 30 % is minimal in it's benefit to be cost effective. There are only two benefits of using nitrogen in tires. One is moisture. If that is an issue, just use dry air from a dry air compressor. Most tire shops already use dry air systems anyway. Second is that nitrogen doesn't expand as much with temperature change and again the change is negligible.
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit, what a ride!"
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