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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2SS RS Yellow, Raptor, Vrod Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 599
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I've seen some great modified sound and vids for new exhaust systems. I've not seen a good collection or example of STOCK exhausts with behind the car, in the car and drive by.
If you have your car already, get popular by posting several bytes with STOCK exhaust for true comparison!!! Thanks current Camaro owners! |
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#2 |
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Petro-sexual
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I'd recommend searching in this Section. There are many comparison videos included with the mod'd video clips.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21289
__________________
'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2SS RS Yellow, Raptor, Vrod Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 599
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I've viewed this excellent source. But little on the stock sound comparison.
I'm ALSO sort of looking for an 'expert' to summarize the exhaust types. Some are crackly, some are deep and soft, some require expensive installation, some are easy for do it yourself-ers. If you got the skills to summarize the exhaust options, you could be a real help to us rookies. |
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#4 | |
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Petro-sexual
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Quote:
![]() I'm not even going to suggest I'm anything close to an expert, but I've installed several header systems on F-bodies and catback exhaust, let alone a little fabrication. IMO - the easiest system to install would be the axle back (AB) option. It looks like these will require cutting tools like a hacksaw or sawsall, and a small assortment of wrenches and maybe a prybar or screwdriver. These should just have either slip fit muffler flanges (or adapters that perform the same function) and bandclamps and one should be able to slip the mufflers onto the OEM pipes (after trimming), align to the facia, tighten, and enjoy a little more power. Skill level: If you can change your own oil, you can do this Catbacks are next up the ladder, requiring mostly the same tools, and only a little more time, if any at all. Because one should be able to unbolt the OEM catback from the joint just past the cats' and pull the rest away from the undercarriage. I don't believe cutting will be necessary, but there may be a small chance. After getting the OEM exhaust out, one should be able to slip on the aftermarket kit using the OEM clamps and ones provided in the kit, align and center everything, bolt it down, from cats' to the tips (making to sure adjust and check every adjustment point to the rear facia) and lock it down. I think this would be easier (though more expensive parts-wise) than having the measure and trim the OEM mufflers and even take a little less time than the AB. One thing to keep in mind. It is looking like most accounts of power gains are minimal because it would appear the OEM mufflers flow pretty well. Cutaways show how straigh-through they are. Perhaps the resonators (the huge refrigerator in the case of the L99s) in the mid-pipes would influence flow moreso than the mufflers because of their proximity to the exhaust ports, and CB systems address this with either elimination of the resonators or high-flow styles. I think either ABs or CBs come down to appearance/weight reduction/sound preferrences more than anything. IMHO - the OEM cans are pretty ugly (well, they are mufflers afterall) and most of the aftermarket mufflers are an improvement in appearance. The weight of the OEM mufflers can probably be offset with replacing them with ABs and CBs. Sound is going to be the most significant effect though it seems. Most agree the OEM sound is pretty tame, but the addition of ABs and CBs change that and most people have reported positive comments. Perhaps another good option is the electric cutout. Noweeds has a nice kit that replaces a section of pipes at the flange just past the cats' that require only minor trimming to get to fit. OEM bandclamps and a couple Noweeds band clamps round out much of the mechanicals and the biggest thing left is the wiring and electronics to get power and control to and over the cutouts. I think this would be as time consuming, if not more, than an entire CB and even the AB. For people like me who are always aprehensive about electrical work, despite always getting the job done, I'm always worried about fussing with the electrical. Having installed a couple electric cutouts, myself, I can say it's pretty easy and to just do the research for good power circuits and grounds and take your time. I could go into much more detail but think I've posted enough. If I need to clarify, I'd be happy to to the best of my knowledge and ability.
__________________
'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 2SS RS Yellow, Raptor, Vrod Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 599
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excellent feedback. I'm running the videos over and over, but so many are sooooo similar...
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#6 | |
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Banned
Drives: A Black Car Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 800
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Quote:
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#7 |
![]() Drives: Z28 Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 533
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Maybe head over to a local dealership and have have em start one up, you can never reproduce the sound accuratly with the microphones on on cameras.
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#8 |
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Banned
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sin City
Posts: 697
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Stock muffer audio
To hear the stock sound please press the play button below and listen.
"PLAY"
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