12-12-2018, 07:49 PM | #1 |
Keep Calm & Chive On
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BC Coilovers Installation Instructions
Anyone have the install instructions for BC coilovers? Also, do you need camber bolts for the rear?
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2013 Camaro SS/RS CGM
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12-12-2018, 08:00 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ixonia wi
Posts: 1,456
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I'm getting these soon also. Interested to see what else is needed. Did you get camber bolts for the front?
I ordered offset diff bushings...
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2013 1le- Katech 416 short block, TSP custom grind cam, LOD intake, cnc heads by F.ED., Nick William's 102mm T.B., CORN fed, Pedders coilovers. Performance street alingnment by Justin at Lake Country Alignment and dyno tune by Late Model Throttle.
603 h.p. 495 ft lbs tq. |
12-13-2018, 07:08 AM | #3 |
Snipped out some key info from one of my build threads relative to the wrenching specifics. More detail is within the attached threads, read up and research first so you don't have issues later! I have BC-ERs. Most of this info if not all should apply. I use Moreno Camber plates on the Front cause it allows perfect alignment including Caster. Was able to get a good street alignment without any special camber bolts or other mods. You may not get within alignment targets, esp Camber, if the car is lowered significantly.
Front - O Loosen all wheel nuts. O Jack up the car and support securely. Pick jack stand points in the underbody that allow access to all fasteners and connections. I suggest the flat reinforced underbody areas, and use a wood block or similar on both sides, front and rear. Or the pinch flange. You will be cranking on some bolts that have over 100ft lbs torque, so make sure the car is secure. O Remove the Wheels/Tires. O There is an ABS Line that goes to the wheel and it's held in with a Rubber Grommet that is simply pushed into a tab. Pull it out so that it's clear from the work. O On the opposite side of the Strut Assembly, there is a Brake Line that is held in by a 10mm bolt. Remove and clear. O Two 24mm Bolts on the bottom of the Strut and the single 24mm clinch nut on the Top of the Strut under the hood hold the entire Strut Assembly to the car at this point. O Remove the (2) 24mm bolts and nuts from the Lower Strut Assembly. These are a little tough so you might need to put a little more effort into it than normal. Use (2) large 24 mm wrenchs, or a deep 24mm socket and 24 mm wrench. Remove the TOP Bolt and Nut 1st, and then loosen the bottom nut. Tie up the hub to the inner wheel well so it does not flop around. Then remove the bottom nut and bolt. Note: 24mm bolts are TTY and should be replaced, see build thread for part # and torque specs. O Lift the hood, unscrew the small black Strut cover cap and a 24mm nut is revealed. A T50 torx bit is inserted in the shock rod so it does not rotate, and use a 24 mm box or offset box wrench to get at the nut. All the weight of the Strut Assembly is being held by this so making sure that you have a hand on it when taking it off. O To disassemble the strut to get the parts needed for the coilovers, use a spring compressor as the spring is under tension! Compress the spring and remove the 24mm nut holding the spring to the strut. You will need to reuse the nut, OEM washer, and OEM rubber top mount and ring for the coilovers. O Reassemble in reverse order. I set the spring preload at ~4mm. Rear - I suggest you use a spring compressor to be safe. Remove the 21mm Lower Control Arm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly using a 21mm Socket and the 21mm wrench. STRUT - Remove the (4) 15mm Strut Bolts at the Frame and remove strut. Note: 21mm bolt is a TTY and should be replaced, see build thread for part # and torque specs. Removing the Calipers, Rotor, and LCA Bolt at the Hub and lowering the LCA makes assembly/disassembly easier, but then gets into more TTY fasteners and following "Bushing Timing" requirements. Make sure you install the retaining washers so the strut rod does not pull out of the mounting plate. See 2nd to last thread. Ride Height adjustment is obtained with the locking collars, and is trial and error. Going too low can create issues with getting alignment within specs, there are plenty of threads out there on lowering, alignment targets, and mods to get enough Camber. See the last attached thread. Set the BC's in the middle of the compression/rebound setting(s) to start, too low of settings can make them clunky, too high can cause dental issues. Tip: I always use a white marker pen and "torque stripe" all fasteners, including the BC locking collars, to allow for confirmation that fasteners were torqued and visual inspection that nothing backs off after driving the vehicle. My Alignment Specs (Street): Frt Cm = -.9/-1.0 Frt Cs = 7.6/7/7 (more than stock target of 5.3 to 6.8 is a good thing) Frt Toe = 0.07/0.07 Rr Camber = -0.7/-0.6 (cam bolts just about maxed out) Rr Toe = 0.01/0.01 https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442230 https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519955 https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489316 https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63285 https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=490255 Last edited by hesster; 12-13-2018 at 07:20 AM. |
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camber plates, coilovers |
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