Guys with headers... first of many header questions.

[Padre]

My JBA Shorty headers required longer wires (well, at least one, which the Shorties come with). Then I discovered that wires are more likely to get melted in such situations, so I bought some thermal shields for them. I ended up with Granatelli wires because they are meant for LS3's, meaning they are longer. Some off-the-shelf brands (like from Jegs) meant for LS1's are sold for LS3's also, but LS1-specific wires are tighter on an LS3, which I was not comfortable with. But you can get the same brands through sponsors here, and they will be cut to the right length.

I also noticed an immediate performance increase with the wires, which meant that my previous ones were sub-par or damaged. But basically, I'm happy with the Grantelli's because of their fitment.

I would only buy wires that are rated for high-heat, or use them with a thermal shield. No bare wires for me with headers.

Padre

[newagemuscle]

Originally Posted by Padre

My JBA Shorty headers required longer wires (well, at least one, which the Shorties come with). Then I discovered that wires are more likely to get melted in such situations, so I bought some thermal shields for them. I ended up with Granatelli wires because they are meant for LS3's, meaning they are longer. Some off-the-shelf brands (like from Jegs) meant for LS1's are sold for LS3's also, but LS1-specific wires are tighter on an LS3, which I was not comfortable with. But you can get the same brands through sponsors here, and they will be cut to the right length.

I also noticed an immediate performance increase with the wires, which meant that my previous ones were sub-par or damaged. But basically, I'm happy with the Grantelli's because of their fitment.

I would only buy wires that are rated for high-heat, or use them with a thermal shield. No bare wires for me with headers.

Padre

Good point.

[newagemuscle]

Originally Posted by caverman

For looks.....it is necessary.

Here is a set of used ARH (but any Stainless 304 will do the same) before and then after coating. Once they are coated they will maintain that look for a very long time.

Man... those really look good coated. I am definitely going to get mine done.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by newagemuscle

Man... those really look good coated. I am definitely going to get mine done.

They look even better POLISHED... Check out Big Flow.. we have quite a few club members running these and Hennessey uses them on their builds too.
http://www.bigflowexhaust.com/camaro_2010_exhaust.shtml

[caverman]

So the Big Flow's don't change color over time? I don't know anything about BF headers but I'm pretty sure ARH and KOOKS are polished 304 as well. After a few thousand miles they end up looking like what I posted.

BF headers may be different.

[caverman]

Originally Posted by newagemuscle

Man... those really look good coated. I am definitely going to get mine done.

To me it's worth the extra $200 or so. I have about 7k miles on my headers and they look exactly the same as when I put them on.

[geaux_tigerss]

I like the look of the uncoated. That deep purple/gold color says: "I have seen redline..."

Chrome/polish belongs on a caddy.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by caverman

So the Big Flow's don't change color over time? I don't know anything about BF headers but I'm pretty sure ARH and KOOKS are polished 304 as well. After a few thousand miles they end up looking like what I posted.

BF headers may be different.

Kooks and ARH are not polished. Polished looks like chrome and it does still look great over time.. They will have a little discoloring right at the heads but not bad at all. We have quite a few sets on in our Camaro club and a lot of the big shops here are using them.

[BowlingSS]

I still have the stock wires and plugs but am thinking about changing them soon.

Bill

[2010 4 DW]

Originally Posted by Big Top Gt

Aren't the Kooks stainless?

I've got a seton order and didn't think the coating was necessary.

It does not matter what material the headers are made of. The ceramic coating is a thermal barrier that keeps heat inside the header so it does not make the engine bay any warmer then it already is. I have tested headers and the ceramic coated option is 200 degrees cooler on the surface then bare 304SS headers. "Always get Ceramic coated if you are supercharged"

[evilbeef54]

i too am running the stock wires on my kooks LTs, but i did get a set of the plug wire heat sleeves in yellow off of ebay for like $30, there was one boot that was pretty darn close to the header, mostly they are for looks, as you can see i did not go with the coating, they changed color pretty quick, like a day, lol

[Mud]

Those valve covers are bitchin'

[Badbubba]

Originally Posted by 2010 4 DW

It does not matter what material the headers are made of. The ceramic coating is a thermal barrier that keeps heat inside the header so it does not make the engine bay any warmer then it already is. I have tested headers and the ceramic coated option is 200 degrees cooler on the surface then bare 304SS headers. "Always get Ceramic coated if you are supercharged"

You are correct that the coated headers not give off as much heat. One reason is the "shiny" surface. It will not radiate as much heat, this is due to a low emissivity of the coating. But as for the temperature difference between the two header's surface temp, it depends on how you measured the temperature. If you used a contact device, such as a thermometer or thermocouple, no issues. If you used a point and shoot infrared temp gun without adjusting the emissivity for each surface, then the temp values could be skewed. Especially if the uncoated headers had a few hrs on them.

[newagemuscle]

Looks really cool with the yellow sleeves. I may go that route or a whole new wire altogether. I would really like yellow wires considering I have a yellow car; however, I have not seen any in yellow. If not, I will probably just get red.