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Old 04-16-2025, 02:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe.G View Post
You should be fine to run them on the new rotor, you would need to rebed the new rotors. When you bed the brakes you are putting pad material onto the rotor, this help with. Braking.
I've been kind of on and off with my brakes, since I replaced with cheapish aftermarket brake pads and re-used the factory Brembo GM brake rotors. I had probably a good 250-300+ miles, even after bleeding my brake system all around and bedding the brakes, where it felt like the brakes weren't working at full capacity.

I did some research and I guess some brake setups take some time to bed/break in and start braking together better, when you replace either the rotors, pads, or both. I ended up trying to "bed" the brakes again (pretty much just a bunch of intermittent hard stops), which "maybe" helped, but I think it didn't do much and then went back to not feeling amazing again.

Nowadays, I notice the glazing on my brake rotors vary from time to time. But most days now, I notice the brakes feeling not as great as the factory setup (which is understandable). However, I did still get semi-metallic pads through a Wagner distributor, and they seem to brake like maybe 50-60% as well as the factory Brembo GM brake pads (along with the OEM Brembo GM rotors).
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Old 04-16-2025, 06:05 AM   #16
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Brake pads and rotors all will change the way a car will feel and perform while braking, the pad material from the pads you are using need a layer built up on the rotor, If you are changing pads you should at least clean up the rotor surface, they make tools you can do this at home with. I don't cut rotors anymore typically I just replace them. If you are keeping the same model pad then I may reuse the rotor if it's in good shape. Cheap brakes will get you mixed results. On my Dailys I use powerstop kits and they do good for that purpose.
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Old 04-16-2025, 01:31 PM   #17
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Do what I told you to do
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Old 04-16-2025, 01:36 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by J35Y2 View Post
I've been kind of on and off with my brakes, since I replaced with cheapish aftermarket brake pads and re-used the factory Brembo GM brake rotors. I had probably a good 250-300+ miles, even after bleeding my brake system all around and bedding the brakes, where it felt like the brakes weren't working at full capacity.

I did some research and I guess some brake setups take some time to bed/break in and start braking together better, when you replace either the rotors, pads, or both. I ended up trying to "bed" the brakes again (pretty much just a bunch of intermittent hard stops), which "maybe" helped, but I think it didn't do much and then went back to not feeling amazing again.

Nowadays, I notice the glazing on my brake rotors vary from time to time. But most days now, I notice the brakes feeling not as great as the factory setup (which is understandable). However, I did still get semi-metallic pads through a Wagner distributor, and they seem to brake like maybe 50-60% as well as the factory Brembo GM brake pads (along with the OEM Brembo GM rotors).

No brake system takes time to bed in, if you didn't smell and see smoke from the brakes you didn't bed them in. When your car starts to shake under braking, blame the cheap pads, not the rotors,

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Old 04-16-2025, 02:51 PM   #19
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Do what I told you to do

If you read my previous post you will see that I did. I put CRC Disc Brake Quiet lube on all of the pads and the squealing is still there. They are rated to handle high temps. Unless you recommend a different brand? If so which one?
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Old 04-16-2025, 04:27 PM   #20
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If you read my previous post you will see that I did. I put CRC Disc Brake Quiet lube on all of the pads and the squealing is still there. They are rated to handle high temps. Unless you recommend a different brand? If so which one?
You did not use the product I told you to use which is high temp purple anti seize, as a former dealer tech I have fixed hundreds of brake squeal complaints and have never once had one of my vehicles made brake noise.


If you do a track day you may have to reapply it, but I haven't.

Put it where ever the backing plate touches anything, scrape that other stuff off.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...waAjZhEALw_wcB
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Old 04-16-2025, 04:44 PM   #21
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I never used the crc product myself, iv seen it used. I suggest the purple stuff in the link above, I don't like it on the slide pins but works good on the back of pads. I worked at GM in the late 90's always slapped caliper grease on the back of all the pads. Never had a noise issue either.
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Old 04-16-2025, 05:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY View Post
You did not use the product I told you to use which is high temp purple anti seize, as a former dealer tech I have fixed hundreds of brake squeal complaints and have never once had one of my vehicles made brake noise.


If you do a track day you may have to reapply it, but I haven't.

Put it where ever the backing plate touches anything, scrape that other stuff off.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...waAjZhEALw_wcB

You mentioned high temp anti seize... but not the purple stuff till now. Thanks and I will look into it.
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Old 04-16-2025, 05:12 PM   #23
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Just placed my order through Amazon. Thanks.
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Old 04-16-2025, 07:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe.G View Post
I never used the crc product myself, iv seen it used. I suggest the purple stuff in the link above, I don't like it on the slide pins but works good on the back of pads. I worked at GM in the late 90's always slapped caliper grease on the back of all the pads. Never had a noise issue either.

What was you reasoning for not liking it applied to the slide pins?
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Old 04-16-2025, 07:22 PM   #25
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What was you reasoning for not liking it applied to the slide pins?
Slide pins should have high temp grease.
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Old 04-16-2025, 08:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY View Post
Slide pins should have high temp grease.

I used the CRC on the slide pins ... will do the same with the purple stuff once it arrives tmw. On a side note... Detroit Axle contacted me to call them to discuss warranty on the rotors.... This may be a good thing. Will call them tmw.
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Old 04-16-2025, 08:22 PM   #27
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Also... at what point should the slide pins and clips be replaced?
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Old 04-16-2025, 08:27 PM   #28
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I would have to say that my Powerstop setup - with drilled and slotted rotors, is mixed but mostly, pretty darn good. I was getting some shudder in the front and had to go with a different Hawk pad and that helped a lot.


I feel like they stop every bit as good as the OE Brembo's. But ironically, the OE brake dust got replaced with rotor rust dust! Mostly after it's washed. I don't drive it in the rain otherwise it would be a mess a lot.

These were my last front pads that are still on there: Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 Brake Pads - Front
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