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#15 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 1LT RS Rally Yellow Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: southern Illinois
Posts: 2,973
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Quote:
Adding fill to a sub box "tricks" the sub into thinking it's in a larger enclosure. This is really only needed if you don;t have room to build the proper box, and need to add air space. Caraudio.com???? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Don't go there!! I have the same screen name there as here, and I'm telling you, you won't learn much. Too much flaming and bs about brand loyalty, next greates internet thing. Soundsolutionsaudio.com is hands down one of the most informative car audio websites available. Several manufacturers have forums there, and their people are there all the time. The enclosure is the most important part of the build. It's going to be the primary factor in how the sub responds. Too big, it'll be sloppy and go boom alot. Too small, it'll suffer on the output side of things and sound strangled. For the trunks we have, a good, solid 10" driver, in the proper box, sealed or ported, with the right power is going to do wonders. Me? I'd run a SSA Icon 10,in 1ft^3, ported to about 36hz off a Sundown 1000d. Of course, I'm a bit of a basshead, although rap isn't on the playlist. For the op, a Kicker Comp VR would be a good option. Small, sealed box, about 400wrms, and it'll sound good. Maybe even an L5, grab a bit more cone area that way. |
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#16 |
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W6 -10" sub and a JL Audio Amp. Used the ******** large box and the sub is very complimentary to the stereo. It does not rattle the glass. I listen to classic rock and country.
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#17 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 CGM/IO 2SS RS Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 112
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#18 |
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Layla
Drives: '10 2SS/RS, LS3, CGM/IO Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 345
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Sealed enclosure w/10 in speaker and a good quality amp should do fine. I built my own RF system for my truck and it provides more bass than I know what to do with. Any manufacturer's site should provide a volume calculator for the enclosure size you'll need for each speaker, if you choose to build your own or compare pre-built enclosures. From there I use my head's non-fading level to the sub amp to control the amount of bass for the music I'm listening to. Good luck and please post how you decide to add more bass.
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#19 |
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I am having a Perfect Fit 10" Subwoofre enclosure fitted with a Audison 10" Thesis Sub; Powering the system with a Audion LRX5.1mt Amp. Going through a Bit 1 Processor off the stock head unit.
The Bit 1 processor should give me the best control to balance out the entire system to fit my needs. |
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#20 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: RSSS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,492
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#21 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT Rally Yellow Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Victoria, Tx
Posts: 244
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__________________
Its Just A State Of Play!!![]() |
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#22 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT Rally Yellow Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Victoria, Tx
Posts: 244
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When was this I have been there since '97 with the exception of those 3 years they had me in Lufkin.
__________________
Its Just A State Of Play!!![]() |
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#23 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: RSSS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,492
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There were a few of us that would run around Victoria looking for races and whatnot. I want to say that I bought quite a few speakers and a deck or two from TNT around then as well. I was in a dark green '67 Mustang.
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#24 |
![]() Drives: 1991 Camaro RS Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 596
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Sounds like your preferences are very similar to mine. I haven't done my Camaro yet but my plan is for a JL Audio 10w6 or 12w6 in an enclosed box. Clean and accurate bass is what I'm looking for. I had a JL 10w3 v2 in an enclosed stealthbox in my '98 SS and it was absolutely amazing. The 2010 will need a bit more since it's not a hatchback.
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#25 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 1LT RS Rally Yellow Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: southern Illinois
Posts: 2,973
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Quote:
Two might be a bit of overkill. Although free is a good thing, lol. Impedence, the 2ohm vs 4 ohm thing, is for matching amps. There are technical issues, like coil size, thickness, and shape, that influence impedence, but for a typical person, it doesn't matter. All that matters is that you match up sub to amp. I'd recommend looking at something class D, and monoblock. It's a bit more efficent then a similiar sized A/B amp, so electrical upgrades can be minimal. Downside is that A/B style amps tend to be cleaner, but for subs, it's not going to be audible. |
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