Lug nut Torq? - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

97one · 02-17-2010, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redman

Cool..... how do you know the studs are 10.9? Why the hey would they make a grade 8 equivalent piece and leave it with generic markings?
Not trying to be a pest but I've learned hard lessons by tightening stuff too much. Then someone taught me about bolt grades. Tighter is not always better especially when parts are laying on the tar.

:troll:

redman · 02-18-2010, 08:14 AM

We still don't have a solid answer to this question due to your self serving need to proclaim your correctness based upon anecdote. Hopefully in the future, with more research, we can arrive at the answer based upon mechanical properties of the fasteners.

Russell James · 02-18-2010, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redman

We still don't have a solid answer to this question due to your self serving need to proclaim your correctness based upon anecdote. Hopefully in the future, with more research, we can arrive at the answer based upon mechanical properties of the fasteners.

We don't have a solid answer?

I got a reply back from the GM Tire and Wheel Engineer at Milford Proving Grounds. Nothing anecdotal about that, he da man.

Don't like the engineer's number, pick your own.

redman · 02-18-2010, 09:35 AM

Now we are getting somewhere. Could you post the reply?

Russell James · 02-18-2010, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redman

Now we are getting somewhere. Could you post the reply?

I put it in posting # 43. The engineer replied back that the Service Spec in the Owner's Manual is correctly listed as 140 lb/ft.

Nine Ball · 02-18-2010, 01:43 PM

Such a heated debate about....lug nuts.

Kinda pathetic, really

LOL!

T_MECO · 02-18-2010, 01:51 PM

truthfully I thought this would have been an easy question. But I am glad that we are all concerned about the safety of the car/passengers.

buzzy56 · 03-06-2010, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nine Ball

Such a heated debate about....lug nuts.

Kinda pathetic, really

LOL!

Just maybe that is why they named them "Lug nuts".
They are driving us all NUT"S just thinking about them!!!!

StreetReporter · 07-10-2010, 12:04 AM

Here's he deal -- early Camaros came with manuals that recommended 100 lb/ft of torque. But then there was a vibration problem and other issues, so they CHANGED it to 140 lb/ft.

That's why there have been so many angry posts back and forth. They're both right.

But 140 lb/ft is the law f the land from GM on this car now.

jakebrake · 07-21-2010, 05:00 PM

140ftlb does sound high! I've got a big top of line digital tw and it only goes to 150! That's a lot of torque I'd b afraid to break or stretch lug! I belive that could be on newton scale?but just use your btr judgement. Its easier to do right the 1st time but btr lil loose than to tight can always retourqe! Besides canada prob made the manuals!lol

jakebrake · 07-21-2010, 05:14 PM

Don't know bout yall but here in north carolina I don't think a dealership service or tire shop even knows how to work a tw!lol I've never had my wheels tourqued on my 89 silverado just good old impact and never had an issue in 21yrs! But I'm sure they don't check tourque when zooming them on so I wouldn't loose any sleep over it allthough I would like to know being 100 and 140 is quiet a diff!

97one · 07-21-2010, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jakebrake

140ftlb does sound high! I've got a big top of line digital tw and it only goes to 150! That's a lot of torque I'd b afraid to break or stretch lug! I belive that could be on newton scale?but just use your btr judgement. Its easier to do right the 1st time but btr lil loose than to tight can always retourqe! Besides canada prob made the manuals!lol

Topdown · 01-20-2011, 05:22 PM

So, I will throw my own personal experience in here as well... feel free to ignore if you like.

I currently own a 1998 Dodge (dont hate, I bought it used, CHEAP) Ram 1500, 2010 Camaro and 1/2 of my wife's 2009 Subaru Forester.

I used to torque my wheels, across all vehicles, to 100ft-lbs (snap-on torque wrench, calibrated yearly - I love my snap-on driver!) because I too have spec'd and quality tested bolts and studs.

the reason I DON'T just torque them to 100lbs anymore (unless the manual says to do so), has more to do with a very long evening where I lost a front wheel (yes, lost a wheel) while on the freeway in the Dodge. the drivers side front lug nuts had backed themselves off, the wheel slid to the outside of the studs, they bent, broke and all different kinds of hell ensued until I could get the truck stopped. All 4 wheels lugnuts had backed themselves off.

I cant help but wonder to myself, since I haven't read ALL 3 pages of posts, if folks aren't overlooking things like wheel expansion and contraction with heat/cold changes. As I am fairly sure that that is one of the contributors to my experience.

I can, without a doubt tell every single person here that hasn't had it happen to them, that you don't want it to... 70+mph losing a front wheel in traffic, in the rain, in the dark. The damage that a 35lb aluminum wheel, with tire, rotating at 600+ revs per mile does to your car/truck is fairly astonishing, considering how quickly it seemed to happen. Then count in the damage done when your vehicle drops and hits rotor to pavement at 70mph, digs through blacktop... assuming your rotor is the lowest part and you don't have anything like exhaust, control arms, etc... hanging lower.

There are more forces at work when it comes to lug nuts than just the stretch of the wheel stud, that stud is constantly changing temp, hot when braking, cold when wet, plus its rotating awful fast.

I may be killing my wheel studs, but 140lbs seems reasonable to me when I add in that my aluminum wheels are also expanding and contracting with heat, rotating awful fast, carrying multiple times the weight when cornering hard versus going straight... God and the Vancouver Police know that I am not taking corners slowly.

The lady in the car behind me was a single mother with her 8yr old daughter in the car with her, she pulled over with me... she was bawling, shaking badly and her daughter appeared to be in shock. apparently when the wheel came off, it covered her entire windshield with a thick dusting of sparks from what used to be my front rotor and lower control arm.

So, I can honestly say that 140lbs while maybe excessive, is probably stated for a reason... while I don't agree with every decision GM makes for this car, the one that keeps the wheels on while running the Nurburging and while on the freeway, is one I am comfortable with.

Brianskeet · 01-20-2011, 08:29 PM

Nine ball can you chime in on aftermarket wheels vs stockers for this torque issue. Does it make any difference at all.

02-18-2010, 01:43 PM	#62
Nine Ball Drives: 1969 & 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,849	Such a heated debate about....lug nuts. Kinda pathetic, really LOL! __________________ Fquick.com/NineBall

02-18-2010, 01:51 PM	#63
T_MECO Drives: 2013 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Houston Posts: 386 View My Garage	truthfully I thought this would have been an easy question. But I am glad that we are all concerned about the safety of the car/passengers. __________________ http://camarorocket.blogspot.com/ http://1968firebird.blogspot.com/

07-10-2010, 12:04 AM	#65
StreetReporter Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT RS Black on Black Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 218	Here's he deal -- early Camaros came with manuals that recommended 100 lb/ft of torque. But then there was a vibration problem and other issues, so they CHANGED it to 140 lb/ft. That's why there have been so many angry posts back and forth. They're both right. But 140 lb/ft is the law f the land from GM on this car now. __________________ "If at first you don't succeed, conceal all evidence you tried in the first place."

01-20-2011, 05:22 PM	#69
Topdown The wait is over! Drives: 2010 Camaro, IOM, L99, Auto Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Washington Posts: 1,081	So, I will throw my own personal experience in here as well... feel free to ignore if you like. I currently own a 1998 Dodge (dont hate, I bought it used, CHEAP) Ram 1500, 2010 Camaro and 1/2 of my wife's 2009 Subaru Forester. I used to torque my wheels, across all vehicles, to 100ft-lbs (snap-on torque wrench, calibrated yearly - I love my snap-on driver!) because I too have spec'd and quality tested bolts and studs. the reason I DON'T just torque them to 100lbs anymore (unless the manual says to do so), has more to do with a very long evening where I lost a front wheel (yes, lost a wheel) while on the freeway in the Dodge. the drivers side front lug nuts had backed themselves off, the wheel slid to the outside of the studs, they bent, broke and all different kinds of hell ensued until I could get the truck stopped. All 4 wheels lugnuts had backed themselves off. I cant help but wonder to myself, since I haven't read ALL 3 pages of posts, if folks aren't overlooking things like wheel expansion and contraction with heat/cold changes. As I am fairly sure that that is one of the contributors to my experience. I can, without a doubt tell every single person here that hasn't had it happen to them, that you don't want it to... 70+mph losing a front wheel in traffic, in the rain, in the dark. The damage that a 35lb aluminum wheel, with tire, rotating at 600+ revs per mile does to your car/truck is fairly astonishing, considering how quickly it seemed to happen. Then count in the damage done when your vehicle drops and hits rotor to pavement at 70mph, digs through blacktop... assuming your rotor is the lowest part and you don't have anything like exhaust, control arms, etc... hanging lower. There are more forces at work when it comes to lug nuts than just the stretch of the wheel stud, that stud is constantly changing temp, hot when braking, cold when wet, plus its rotating awful fast. I may be killing my wheel studs, but 140lbs seems reasonable to me when I add in that my aluminum wheels are also expanding and contracting with heat, rotating awful fast, carrying multiple times the weight when cornering hard versus going straight... God and the Vancouver Police know that I am not taking corners slowly. The lady in the car behind me was a single mother with her 8yr old daughter in the car with her, she pulled over with me... she was bawling, shaking badly and her daughter appeared to be in shock. apparently when the wheel came off, it covered her entire windshield with a thick dusting of sparks from what used to be my front rotor and lower control arm. So, I can honestly say that 140lbs while maybe excessive, is probably stated for a reason... while I don't agree with every decision GM makes for this car, the one that keeps the wheels on while running the Nurburging and while on the freeway, is one I am comfortable with. __________________ Ordered - 4/17/2010 Delivered - 5/29/2010 AlphaDamp CLD Mat - Get more Sound Deadening with less Sound Deadener

01-20-2011, 08:29 PM	#70
Brianskeet Brianskeet Drives: RJTC 1SS RS L99 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Crestview FL Posts: 771 View My Garage	Nine ball can you chime in on aftermarket wheels vs stockers for this torque issue. Does it make any difference at all. __________________ ARH 1 7/8 coated LT, High flows, Corsa L99 exhaust, Vmax CNC throttle body, Elite Engineering catch can and tunnel brace, C.A.I. Apex Washer relocation and scoop, Janetty Tune, MSD wires, DEI heat shields, RB rotors and pads, Mike the powder coater calipers, pedders lines, Forgestar F14's, Gorilla nutz, MTI spoiler finished by Gary, Gary's Customz Bow Ties, Side Markers and Tails tinted, Bezels matte black, Badges deleted, Windows Tinted, AAC DRL P13W lights, AAC tinted LED reverse lights, AAC LED interior lights, RPI match painted DRL Bezels, Lis plate frame, Lloyds mats

02-18-2010, 08:14 AM	#58
redman Drives: 18 2SS Vert Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: mi Posts: 81	We still don't have a solid answer to this question due to your self serving need to proclaim your correctness based upon anecdote. Hopefully in the future, with more research, we can arrive at the answer based upon mechanical properties of the fasteners.

02-18-2010, 09:35 AM	#60
redman Drives: 18 2SS Vert Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: mi Posts: 81	Now we are getting somewhere. Could you post the reply?

07-21-2010, 05:00 PM	#66
jakebrake Drives: 2010 2ss RS M6 Transformers edition Join Date: May 2010 Location: foothills,NC Posts: 46	140ftlb does sound high! I've got a big top of line digital tw and it only goes to 150! That's a lot of torque I'd b afraid to break or stretch lug! I belive that could be on newton scale?but just use your btr judgement. Its easier to do right the 1st time but btr lil loose than to tight can always retourqe! Besides canada prob made the manuals!lol

07-21-2010, 05:14 PM	#67
jakebrake Drives: 2010 2ss RS M6 Transformers edition Join Date: May 2010 Location: foothills,NC Posts: 46	Don't know bout yall but here in north carolina I don't think a dealership service or tire shop even knows how to work a tw!lol I've never had my wheels tourqued on my 89 silverado just good old impact and never had an issue in 21yrs! But I'm sure they don't check tourque when zooming them on so I wouldn't loose any sleep over it allthough I would like to know being 100 and 140 is quiet a diff!

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