Slugish after oil change ls3.

[fearless]

This could be just in my head but after my oil change today I took my 1SS ls3 out and it seemed sluggish.

So I went to a spot with no traffic and made a few 0-60 runs using a stop watch Best I could get was 5.7-6.0 secs I know this isnt very accurate but dame 6 secs I don't think I have that much lag in my reflexes or could I?

[shinzon]

[Sterling]

Is it possible someone put some lower octane fuel in it recently?

[PAUL SS]

Release the E brake!

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by PAUL SS

Release the E brake!

maybe they over filled it.

[v6sonoma]

Must have used heavy oil. How many quarts did you put in? Should be 8 quarts with a new filter.

[Russell James]

Pull the dipstick after the engine has been run and then shut off. If there is foamy oil way up the dipstick, then it may be way overfull. If it's normal on the dipstick, and the oil pressure is the same as it use to be, I wouldn't worry about it. Possibly some low octane fuel, or just hotter temps.

See how it runs after the next fill up on premium. If the ECM gets kicked down to the low octane table from sensing some spark knock, it can really feel sluggish. It will automatically go back to the premium table after it has run a while with no more spark knock.

[clg_98ta]

If you put in really heavy oil you would notice it immediately (I'm guessing here - I don't know of anyone whos actually done this).

It you put in really light oil, or underfilled it, or overfilled it, you would start to notice as soon as the engine damage sets in.

Hopefully its in your head or due to something else - just verify that you used the correct oil and check the level immediately. If you paid someone to change it for you, ALWAYS check the level when you pick the car up.

[Monte Carlo Man]

If it had synthetic oil in the motor and you put in regular old dinosaur oil chances are the lag you feel is real.

In synthetic oil, all the oil molecules are the same size. Because of how it is engineered, it is slipperier then regular mineral based oil.

Now think about it like this, that oil is being blown around inside of the crankcase while the crankshaft is trying to turn. All the heavy oil does is slows down the crankshaft and makes it harder to spin.

About 12 years ago, GM realized that there was performance gains to be had and a improvement in mileage by using a lighter weight oil in the engine hence 5w30 in the summer and 0w30 in the winter and they replaced all the regular gear lubes and transmission fluids with synthetic's.

The result was leakage on the axle seals - due to the fact that the axle seals were not designed for synthetic oil and the repair bill was astronomical.

The computer hooked to the fuel injection system is designed in such a way that low octane gasoline does not have much of an effect on new engines. You can practically run them with kerosene in the summer time.
The effect of running oily fuels is that it damages the cats. Plugs them up.

Depending on how many miles is on your vehicle, you might need to clean the Mass Airflow sensor or other sensors on the motor or you might need to have the fuel injectors professionally cleaned at a garage.

Maybe the cats are plugged or maybe there is some other sensor that is out of calibration. Maybe hooking it up to a real scan tool could find the problem. Or maybe the sensor on the fly by wire gas pedal or throttle position sensor is going bad. I am having that problem right now with a 2010 Avalanche. It's almost like going through withdrawals when you go from a vehicle that had a cable connected to the throttle to a vehicle that has a electronic sensor on both ends and a computer that tells it when to open the throttle and how much.

Maybe you have a caliper hung up or something else wrong in the driveline.