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Old 11-05-2010, 12:10 PM   #127
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Who makes these pills and where can I buy them? Thanks.
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In the Words of Larry the Cable guy, ( That's some funny shit right there I don't care who you are)
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:39 PM   #128
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I agree with u completly! I also dont agree that a cooler running engine

will cause main bearing issue when the oil temps dont change. i dont want

anger anyone just saying i dont agree with ted on this one.
If everyone would agree with me it Wouldn't Be any Fun!

We need to Challenge the Mind in order To Learn.

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Old 11-05-2010, 12:56 PM   #129
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So far we got - the 160 t-stat will wreck the main bearings,run the hottest plugs you can till the tips burn off and GM should switch to iron heads because they make more power.

Atleast it's a fun thread to read.
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:58 PM   #130
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So far we got - the 160 t-stat will wreck the main bearings,run the hottest plugs you can till the tips burn off and GM should switch to iron heads because they make more power.

Atleast it's a fun thread to read.
Well then your reading comprehension needs a lot of Work
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:29 PM   #131
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Ted, have you ever seen a cup engine? I'd like you to tell us how it shares cooling features with a street car. Is it the water inlet/outlet location? Is it the sealed coolant system with no overflow that often reaches well over 100 psi? They do have aluminum heads! Your right about that!
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Old 11-05-2010, 02:06 PM   #132
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Yes I have, and it doesn't

We will probably see this technology in street cars within the next 10 years.

The stuff we see in cars today they ran about 10 years ago

It is the Trickle down affect.

I love Technology.

Ted.
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Old 11-05-2010, 02:45 PM   #133
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I'm going to reach out and say that you really haven't seen one then. I live in Mooresville where just about every team is located or is not more than say 15 miles away. I work at different cup shops not to mention work in a "race park" where every business in my business park has to do with Nascar, Nationwide, Arca, or truck. The coolant systems for cup cars are so drastically different to a street car it isn't even funny. Its not different to find all this extra missing power but to deal with the design problems they have! Trust me, if they could they would keep water at 180 and oil at 250. -ish

You are right, the larger temperature difference the more potential you have to move heat from one to another. One can think of it as a pressure difference across a nozzle or a voltage difference. You are wrong in the since that we make power with heat. We make power with expansion. If you don't understand this look up topics dealing with flame travel and ignition advance.

I'm a ME. I've also been tuning cars professionally since 2001. It is my recommendation that a 160 thermostat can only help, not hurt. I've ran them in all of my own personal cars and never had a issue with one of them.

The OEM has to make a balance between good power and emissions and they choose best emissions over best power.

Our goal is best power and therefore the added resistance is by far the best benefit to running a 160 thermostat. It is not unlike switching from 91 to 93 octane. BTW, and I'm sure other tuners will chime in.. If you haven't notice a LSX engine will make more power with oil around 200 and water between 177-185 than 220 oil and water 192-198 than respectfully, I don't think your paying attention.


My advice, run your 160 thermostat.. Enjoy another 2-5 rwhp and being that much further from knock.
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Old 11-05-2010, 03:39 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin View Post
I'm going to reach out and say that you really haven't seen one then. I live in Mooresville where just about every team is located or is not more than say 15 miles away. I work at different cup shops not to mention work in a "race park" where every business in my business park has to do with Nascar, Nationwide, Arca, or truck. The coolant systems for cup cars are so drastically different to a street car it isn't even funny. Its not different to find all this extra missing power but to deal with the design problems they have! Trust me, if they could they would keep water at 180 and oil at 250. -ish

You are right, the larger temperature difference the more potential you have to move heat from one to another. One can think of it as a pressure difference across a nozzle or a voltage difference. You are wrong in the since that we make power with heat. We make power with expansion. If you don't understand this look up topics dealing with flame travel and ignition advance.

I'm a ME. I've also been tuning cars professionally since 2001. It is my recommendation that a 160 thermostat can only help, not hurt. I've ran them in all of my own personal cars and never had a issue with one of them.

The OEM has to make a balance between good power and emissions and they choose best emissions over best power.

Our goal is best power and therefore the added resistance is by far the best benefit to running a 160 thermostat. It is not unlike switching from 91 to 93 octane. BTW, and I'm sure other tuners will chime in.. If you haven't notice a LSX engine will make more power with oil around 200 and water between 177-185 than 220 oil and water 192-198 than respectfully, I don't think your paying attention.


My advice, run your 160 thermostat.. Enjoy another 2-5 rwhp and being that much further from knock.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:32 PM   #135
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I'm so confused !!! In my logical thinking, just changing out a TS should have no change on engine temp. Once the coolant is up to temp, it shouldn't make a difference if it's a 192 or no TS at all. As long as the water pump and fan are working, you will reach max efficiency of the cooling system. Only way to make the car cooler would be higher volume fan or more surface area on the cooling fins ...
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:33 PM   #136
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http://books.google.com/books?id=_Mg...engine&f=false

Please read the highlighted text regarding coolant temperatures and octane requirements necessary to prevent KR, detonation. PAGES 50 AND 51
LOWER COOLANT TEMPS ARE GOOD

Last edited by 2SSCAMARO; 11-05-2010 at 04:35 PM. Reason: added page numbers for reference
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:01 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Alvin View Post
I'm going to reach out and say that you really haven't seen one then. I live in Mooresville where just about every team is located or is not more than say 15 miles away. I work at different cup shops not to mention work in a "race park" where every business in my business park has to do with Nascar, Nationwide, Arca, or truck. The coolant systems for cup cars are so drastically different to a street car it isn't even funny. Its not different to find all this extra missing power but to deal with the design problems they have! Trust me, if they could they would keep water at 180 and oil at 250. -ish

You are right, the larger temperature difference the more potential you have to move heat from one to another. One can think of it as a pressure difference across a nozzle or a voltage difference. You are wrong in the since that we make power with heat. We make power with expansion. If you don't understand this look up topics dealing with flame travel and ignition advance.

I'm a ME. I've also been tuning cars professionally since 2001. It is my recommendation that a 160 thermostat can only help, not hurt. I've ran them in all of my own personal cars and never had a issue with one of them.

The OEM has to make a balance between good power and emissions and they choose best emissions over best power.

Our goal is best power and therefore the added resistance is by far the best benefit to running a 160 thermostat. It is not unlike switching from 91 to 93 octane. BTW, and I'm sure other tuners will chime in.. If you haven't notice a LSX engine will make more power with oil around 200 and water between 177-185 than 220 oil and water 192-198 than respectfully, I don't think your paying attention.


My advice, run your 160 thermostat.. Enjoy another 2-5 rwhp and being that much further from knock.

You got my vote Alvin, any plans on running for president?
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:08 PM   #138
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Who makes these pills and where can I buy them? Thanks.
Shorty
It ain't the size of the wand, it's the magic in it.

Interesting read on the thread, gentlemen.
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:53 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by SlingShot View Post
I'm so confused !!! In my logical thinking, just changing out a TS should have no change on engine temp. Once the coolant is up to temp, it shouldn't make a difference if it's a 192 or no TS at all. As long as the water pump and fan are working, you will reach max efficiency of the cooling system. Only way to make the car cooler would be higher volume fan or more surface area on the cooling fins ...
I will try and explain it in my layman way since I am no expert.

If you radiator and fan are up to the task and you put a 160 stat in your car you would always run right around 160. No lower regardless of radiator or fan or driving in the winter down a hill under very little load because the stat will close to keep the temp at 160. Now if your rad/fan are good then you should be at or near 160 even in traffic or at WOT at the track. This is with the 160 stat fully open even though it takes a little for the stat to get to fully open. I am just trying to simplify.

If instead you have a 192 stat then the temps will run around 192.

However, the fan setting in the Camaro and maybe even the size/efficiency of the radiator might not be enough to get you down to 160 if you put a 160 stat in.

I just went through this in my Honda. I removed the stat and had been running that way all summer with my temp gauge always in the middle. If my radiator were bigger or I lowered my fan settings then the car might have run cooler.

I just put a stat back in because we are approaching winter and I did not want to run too cold.
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:29 PM   #140
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i have seen and experienced ted's "work and results" first hand. talk is cheap and easy when it comes to writing on a forum, but ted at jannetty racing has the results to back his words up.
i stand with ted and jannetty racing!
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