IPS turbo install

[CyberPredator]

yea i just finished reading that. So using your catch can where would I hook it up from the turbo. I see the manifold and crank positions. The intake tube doesn't have a port like the stock one

[SC2150]

PM me your email and I will send the complete instructions.

It is critical that the crankcase be properly evacuated.....not just the excess pressure releived and that is all ANY of the kits do no matter who there from. Turbo OR front mount SC.

[SRT10KLLR]

SC, you just reminded me about the catch can. I too have the IPS TT kit but was not going to use there catch can. I have yours installed and you said you could modify it to work now that I am changing from NA to FI. I need to send it your way if you can still do it.

[carbon8]

Yeah I use to think I would never do anything to my busa. And then that went out the window too.


Fastest camaro in OKC

[SC2150]

Just send the can in and we will modify it for you.

PM me for the address.

[ipimpthisc]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Install looks nice, but I'm seeing a breathered catchcan system.....how can you properly evacuated the harmfull crankcase vapors & combustion byproducts with an "open system" ? Everytime you cool down these compounds re-condense into the crankcase and cause engine damage over time......

well i actually dont know...i am new to this ...assuming u are correct and know what the facts...maybe u can lead me in the right direction here.

[ipimpthisc]

dear friends some people have asked about cost regarding my set up....so aside the cost of the tt set up I have had the dual valve spring, hardened pusrods, moroso oil pump, and cam...to set up the tt by itself was 3k est..the cam work and parts etc..was another 3500 i believe. but i did this in 2 steps...meaning the same thing could of been done for less in one shot most likely. My guy is MATT from Tune time performance in NJ...just look it up on the net..he is very well established...tell him ANGEL with orange camaro sent u. He will work with you. He is a great guy. This is an east coast location friends..Not too many north east guy besides jeannetty that i know of.

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by carbon8

oh and the granatelli kit doesn't come with T-bolt clamps ether. I blew a hose off on the dyno too. You might talk to your shop about doing a boost leak test when its all hooked up if your worried about burning up a turbo.

You don't need T bolt clamps for 12lbs of boost, just clean greasey free conections

[ipimpthisc]

Originally Posted by Granatelli

You don't need T bolt clamps for 12lbs of boost, just clean greasey free conections

perhaps in 999.999 in a million but i can assure u with the way my car hits pot holes, rattles and whatever else i rather the extra measure...i didnt need a new oil pump in a new motor either...until i needed it see what I mean. And if my tuner who does this for a living tells me to spend another 100 bucks for the added protection and less aggravation..its worth it to me...plus i will be goin higher boost in time as well

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by ipimpthisc

perhaps in 999.999 in a million but i can assure u with the way my car hits pot holes, rattles and whatever else i rather the extra measure...i didnt need a new oil pump in a new motor either...until i needed it see what I mean. And if my tuner who does this for a living tells me to spend another 100 bucks for the added protection and less aggravation..its worth it to me...plus i will be goin higher boost in time as well

Its all good.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by ipimpthisc

dear friends some people have asked about cost regarding my set up....so aside the cost of the tt set up I have had the dual valve spring, hardened pusrods, moroso oil pump, and cam...to set up the tt by itself was 3k est..the cam work and parts etc..was another 3500 i believe. but i did this in 2 steps...meaning the same thing could of been done for less in one shot most likely. My guy is MATT from Tune time performance in NJ...just look it up on the net..he is very well established...tell him ANGEL with orange camaro sent u. He will work with you. He is a great guy. This is an east coast location friends..Not too many north east guy besides jeannetty that i know of.

Did you do a stroke or just forge the stock bottom end?

[carbon8]

Originally Posted by Granatelli

You don't need T bolt clamps for 12lbs of boost, just clean greasey free conections

JR this is my only complaint about your kit. I just wish it had been an option. As said above every turbo shop uses tbolt clamps. Just for added insurance.


Fastest camaro in OKC

[SC2150]

Originally Posted by ipimpthisc

well i actually dont know...i am new to this ...assuming u are correct and know what the facts...maybe u can lead me in the right direction here.

Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan

Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.


Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.


On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.


In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase.

Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.


The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.


Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.

There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. Want to see whats in your intake manifold? Simply remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold. Take a white paper towel and reach into the intake manifold snout, rub it around, and pull it out. V6 LLT owners...just inside the intake opening you will see a deep collection well that accumulates oil. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.

Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.

Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.

This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.

I also wanted to address the water in the oil. You will NOT fill your crankcase up in short order with just breathers. What happens is each time your engine reaches operating temp the unburnt fuel, water vapor, combustion by-products will gas or "flash-off" as vapor. But only the excess crankcase pressure being relieved through the breather will carry any of that out....and without a proper evac system, a good amount remains in the crankcase and re-condenses back to droplets that coat the internal engine parts as your motor cools down and it contaminates the oil. Every time you heat cycle you are adding more contamination and it is not very visible to just "look" at your oil....you need a professional analysis to see just what is accumulating in your oil and how it is breaking down its ability to protect...but the corrosion from the sulfuric acid is also very damaging over time (I'll try to post up some pics of parts showing just this in the near future). Just pull the dipstick on a diesel 20 miles after an oil change...it already "looks" black & dirty, but is still new and providing the proper protection. Sight is deceiving. Oil might look pretty clean or dirty but an analysis report will show destructive levels of contaminants.


And finally, some have gone so far as to cap off the entire system and run an open hose from each valve cover to near the ground. While this will eliminate all oil getting into the intake via the PCV system, the damage done by the hose with the least amount of air moving past it while at speed will suck dirt/sand/dust/water/and who knows what else directly into the motor via that valve cover. It may take some time (depending on how clean the roads you drive on are) but will result in premature engine wear & failure.


The solution for the street crowd is a properly designed, good functioning oil separating catchcan. Many are available on the market, but ONLY ones designed with internal baffling and a good distance separating the inlet from the outlet. Many of the cans seen for low prices on Ebay, etc. are great looking, but are nothing but empty cans with two fittings attached. Do your homework & get a full understanding before you make your selection.

The 2 different FI models of RX oil separator

You have 2 styles of FI can. The top mount super chargers (Maggie, KB, Whipple, E-Force) directly pressurize the cylinder head runners so no intake manifold. This requires only 1 check valve as your only dealing with the crankcase evac and the excess pressure in the crankcase. The RX can will evac at all operation levels using the vacuum provided by the top mount head unit itself and will prevent any back-flow or reversion.

For the turbo or front mount super charger you have a completely different set of challenges to overcome and the RX dual valve unit is the ONLY oil separating can on the market to address this. The turbo/SC pressurizes the OEM or aftermarket intake manifold when building boost and besides the additional blow-by resulting in excess crankcase pressure, you also have any connection to the intake manifold allowing the boost to leak into the crankcase causing even more issues. When your at idle or non-boost cruising the intake manifold is not positive pressurized and acts as a NA application providing the vacuum needed to evac the crankcase. But when in boost, the intake manifold is pressurized and there is no vacuum source. The kit manufacturers of these (STS, ProCharger, Vortech, etc.) just send a check valve to close when under boost, but this prevents any effective crankcase evac and not only is there the pressure to deal with, but the harmful combustion byproducts are left in the crankcase where they cause damage over time.

The RX can uses the intake manifold vacuum for evac during non-boost operation, and when boost is detected it closes the valve to the intake manifold and the second valve opens using the inlet side of the head unit (turbo/SC) for a vacuum source so no matter what the level of operation the crankcase is evacuated and excess pressure is dealt with. When you let off the gas and fall back into non-boost operation the valves open & close in just the opposite ensuring no oil into the intake system AND proper crankcase evacuation at all times.

The problems with the solution the FI manufacturers include is it is only effective at part of your operating and results in excess crankcase pressure carrying oil vapor/mist into the intake air charge when in boost so you experience detonation and the rest of the issues related to oil ingestion.

Now, for a breathered can. The ONLY time you would use a breathered can is if you have a external vacuum pump that is evacuating the crankcase and this pressure is bled off into a liquid overflow containment container that needs a breather to allow the pressure to vent out.

There is NO time that this would be effective on a NON vacuum pump application. Those that do this are only relieving excess crankcase pressure and are NOT evacuating the harmful combustion byproducts so unless it is a race/track only build using a external vacuum pump and yes, we offer this solution.

To sum it up, anyone trying to use breather only or a breathered catch can on a non vacuum pump motor are never removing the unburnt fuel, carbon particles, sulfuric acid, and the other harmful byproducts that accumulate in the crankcase from running.

[ipimpthisc]

Originally Posted by tsears

Did you do a stroke or just forge the stock bottom end?

no strok or bottom end work done...just head parts and and the twin turbo install and tune.

https://www.facebook.com/video/video...50268111425777 there is a video of what it does on a tune run