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Old 11-08-2011, 10:18 PM   #855
anglwngss
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lol. I haven't seen anyone's in person yet. I'm making a list for all the things to do when the dash is taken apart... Dash ABL, figure out the HUD LEDs, I broke a tab when playing the speed/tach gauges and have to fix those, change a few of the LEDs in the speed/tach, there's more, I'm sure of it, but I've forgotten at the moment.. Aww My car will be down for a month!! grr.
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:12 AM   #856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjmautoprod View Post
We've found an alternate manufacturer for these and they look pretty good!







I already have mine done...but crap! I want MORE lights looking at those now!


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Tyco was and is the manufacturer, There still being made right now, if it was not made then no new car will have them in the doors, Is GM that stopped them from let them out to there distributors and this is why, $$$$$$$$$$$ and that is it they make a lot on you buying a 2SS or a 2LT. the pipes i have now work Like the Old ones you get 98% light transmitted true the pipe.
I know they are still making them....just pisses me off that they won't let anyone else buy them now. B S!
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You can not buy the Tyco light pipe they will not sale it to any one other then GM any more.

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What was the story behind GM not lighting the dash after wiring it to do so?
Because the dash will actually flex over the years due to sitting out in the sun. It might bend 2mm on one end and none in the middle and 3 or the left. It would make the light look off. Then, the owner or new buyer would look at the off lit gap and be like, "geez...GM makes crap parts." But, the truth is that it WAS fine. The heat and sun did it. On top of that, let's say a new person buys the car with warranty in tact. They take it back to get it fixed. What's going to happen...they get a whole new dash for free just because of a teeny tiny bit of possible (not saying it WILL happen) warping?

Won't happen. GM won't take a chance.
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I have the light tube and LEDs. Is there a way to mount the tube so that the gap is non existent? For that matter, can the top of the dash panel be sanded and the light tube go behind them like in the doors?
yep. that's how i originally did mine. But, I found the no sand and 1mm to 2mm gap is SO much better....otherwise, sanding is a PAIN IN THE ASS
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If you haven't seen the gap in person, you should try doing it the way I did (with the gap, no sanding or drilling). I doubt you'll mind/notice the gap. If you do, you can always do the sanding and dremeling after. The gap on the left of the steering wheel may need work though, I'm just too lazy to do it.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:12 AM   #857
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Allright Tag.. When's the next time you're coming to DFW? lol
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:34 AM   #858
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LOL, that's the way to do it get the mods to help on install.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:44 AM   #859
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hell yeah.. I'd even chip in half a tank of gas! lol
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:08 AM   #860
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LOL, that's the way to do it get the mods to help on install.
We did Mikes down here...turned out bad @SS. We tried doing another guys, but his panels were all jacked up...paint chipped, sanded, I broke a light (part of my disclaimer when helping is that if I break stuff...well, you know. First light and only light I've ever broken...but I still felt bad).

Yeah, his was a pain in the ass.

Do not EVER try to do this in the dark either...




But, I DO love doing the mod. I know what to do. It just takes time to perfect how you want the light tube, etc above the weather stripping.

Mine is perfect and hasn't moved at all. LOVE IT since I finally got it finished ... back in Feb?? Don't remember. When I posted that vid. July?? But, it's still the exact same.
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:13 AM   #861
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Maybe if there is another large car show, I can come down and have you *cough* assist in doing that mod. NOT the one this weekend, though, I'm already promised to a local show here.

Of course it's fixing to get really cold which is going to get in the way of everything :(
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:32 PM   #862
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gettin there...


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Old 11-30-2011, 02:51 AM   #863
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Going to hopefully be doing this at some point in the future. $300+ for door panels is a lot of money so Im just waiting to save up to buy them since I own an LS. What do I need for this to work besides the new panels, pipe (which Im getting from the people Tag mentioned previously), and the leds themselves? Do the pipes come with the wiring needed to than t tap into the wire in the door or is there a special harness or something I need from you Ofer?

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Old 11-30-2011, 06:38 AM   #864
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Going to hopefully be doing this at some point in the future. $300+ for door panels is a lot of money so Im just waiting to save up to buy them since I own an LS. What do I need for this to work besides the new panels, pipe (which Im getting from the people Tag mentioned previously), and the leds themselves? Do the pipes come with the wiring needed to than t tap into the wire in the door or is there a special harness or something I need from you Ofer?
A dash removal tool kit would help
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:51 AM   #865
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I have the removal tool. I meant as far as like the wiring is concerned, does the light pipe already have it so than all Id need to do is t tap somewhere in the door? Does the led have it? If neither than what do I need to do to get the wire in order to t tap into my door?
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:06 AM   #866
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Hi, you have a 2011, so there are 2 ways to do it, 1 after replacing the door trim and adding the light pipe and LED, plug that LED in to the door connector, take car to dealer and have them program the BCM to power up that connector, Or if your dealers is as smart as a ........ ( i will let you fill in that part) there is the T-Tap in to your window switch, I recommend you T-tap a pig tail connector to the switch that way if you ever need to remove the door panel you not fighting your T-tap's
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:26 AM   #867
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I have the removal tool. I meant as far as like the wiring is concerned, does the light pipe already have it so than all Id need to do is t tap somewhere in the door? Does the led have it? If neither than what do I need to do to get the wire in order to t tap into my door?
Oh. Well the light pipe doesn't have it's own wiring. It's pretty much just glass. Reminds me of an old school mercury thermometer, just a lot longer. It doesn't glow by itself. An LED must be attached to the end of it to shine the light through. The GM LEDs have wires already connected to them. So one GM LED, with attached wires, is a couple of feet long and there's a factory connector at the end of it. That will have to be removed if your vehicle doesn't have the factory ABL connectors and you'll have to use the t tap method. The bulb itself has a plastic housing around it that you'll have to remove as well.


The light pipe looks like this.


LED with plastic removed and vinyl tube attached.



LED with light pipe attached together with vinyl tube.

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Old 11-30-2011, 11:30 AM   #868
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Your good at this so i can stay off and get some work done, Thanks for helping members out.
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