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Old 11-14-2011, 12:10 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragoneye View Post
Not good enough!!

Give me an answer NAOW!!!

TELL ME WHAT TO DO!!!



Lol
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:00 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by kiteman View Post

it is no statement. it's just saying "hey, someone else has a different opinion that sounds reasonable, what do you guys make of this?" i never said in my original post that i agreed or disagreed, just that i found an opposition that seemed certainly feasible.
I think the title of this thread, which you created, is why some of us have come in here to defend the use of a catch can. If I have time tonight, I will pull my TB and get s few pics of the inside of my intake.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:24 AM   #171
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cool I want to see this!!!!
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:08 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by Brandon455 View Post
I have always suspected the Catch Can was not really neccessary.
However,I have one on my car with the thought that it could only help and does not harm anything.

Plus I think it looks cool.

I don't have one on my 5.3 Silverado with almost 200k on it and it runs like new
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If it was really necessary, it would be there from the factory, but then there would be too owners who would never know to drain it, a bigger problem. It can only help.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:33 PM   #173
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See Tracy's responses and others on the other thread.Anyone who wants not to use one go ahead. Personally I have and the data as to why has been around since at least the 4th gen. I know as It all came up then as well.No differences, same thing is going on.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:04 PM   #174
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Here is a good beofre and after as far as the intake manifold. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...137072&page=46

There are several very effective cans on the market, but ALL will catch oil so any is better than none. The problem is far to many catch oil, but still allow a good amount to pull right through the can and out into the intake so the problem has been improved, but not cured. Want to see how well a can works? Install it, clean your intake manifold, run it 1000 miles and then inspect. Better yet, get a clear inline fuel filter (glass) from any auto parts store and install it inline between the can outlet & the intake manifold vacuum nipple. This will show you in short order if your can is allowing oil through and into the intake manifold. The filter will become saturated in a few miles of running. Some will NOT want you to do this test, but there are some very good cans for sale by vendors here and in my threads I praise & endorse them. A few though collect plenty of oil but still let far to much through.

Now, here is some more info on both the longterm & short term effects of the oil ingestion:

(copied from another thread)

LOL!! The oil in the intake air charge reduces the amount of useable octaine in the A/F mixture thus less energy is released pre explosive event. This on a brand new motor this causes detonation and the ECU will pull timing to protect the engine, the result is less power and porrer fuel economy (the idela A/F ratio with the most timing is where the motor runs the most efficiently).

Over time, the "gunk" deposits that buld up on the intake valves reduces the volumetric efficiency of the flow (velocity makes power, power = effiency) further degrading performance and fuel economy and the carbon build up on the piston tops and combustion chamber as a result disrupt the burn pattern and effectivness of the quench areas causing hot spots.

Then, long term these baked on carbon deposits begine to shed particles which get trapped (carbon is diamond-like hard and very abrasive) between the cyliner wall and rings/pistonscausing scouring and shortened engine life.

Now I would LOVE to have anyone who thinks this is not an issue post up your automotive engineering background and explain in detail how this oil ingestion is anything BUT harmfull in every way. Just ONE positive. I'm all ears. I have only beed building race & performance engines, designing products for the aftermarket performance market, and racing professionally for over 35 years training at some of the most respected engine builders doing R&D for GM, Ford, IRL, etc. I'm all ears.....
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:09 PM   #175
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Gee I dunno Tracy I like your posts but do you have an honest face...lol. I think anyone that disputes the validity of this issue has no business opening the hood of a car. Just my not so humble opinion.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:18 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
Here is a good beofre and after as far as the intake manifold. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...137072&page=46

There are several very effective cans on the market, but ALL will catch oil so any is better than none. The problem is far to many catch oil, but still allow a good amount to pull right through the can and out into the intake so the problem has been improved, but not cured. Want to see how well a can works? Install it, clean your intake manifold, run it 1000 miles and then inspect. Better yet, get a clear inline fuel filter (glass) from any auto parts store and install it inline between the can outlet & the intake manifold vacuum nipple. This will show you in short order if your can is allowing oil through and into the intake manifold. The filter will become saturated in a few miles of running. Some will NOT want you to do this test, but there are some very good cans for sale by vendors here and in my threads I praise & endorse them. A few though collect plenty of oil but still let far to much through.

Now, here is some more info on both the longterm & short term effects of the oil ingestion:

(copied from another thread)

LOL!! The oil in the intake air charge reduces the amount of useable octaine in the A/F mixture thus less energy is released pre explosive event. This on a brand new motor this causes detonation and the ECU will pull timing to protect the engine, the result is less power and porrer fuel economy (the idela A/F ratio with the most timing is where the motor runs the most efficiently).

Over time, the "gunk" deposits that buld up on the intake valves reduces the volumetric efficiency of the flow (velocity makes power, power = effiency) further degrading performance and fuel economy and the carbon build up on the piston tops and combustion chamber as a result disrupt the burn pattern and effectivness of the quench areas causing hot spots.

Then, long term these baked on carbon deposits begine to shed particles which get trapped (carbon is diamond-like hard and very abrasive) between the cyliner wall and rings/pistonscausing scouring and shortened engine life.

Now I would LOVE to have anyone who thinks this is not an issue post up your automotive engineering background and explain in detail how this oil ingestion is anything BUT harmfull in every way. Just ONE positive. I'm all ears. I have only beed building race & performance engines, designing products for the aftermarket performance market, and racing professionally for over 35 years training at some of the most respected engine builders doing R&D for GM, Ford, IRL, etc. I'm all ears.....
How would clear plastic tubing work for this experiment? Sure one side would get dirty pretty quick but the other should stay relatively clean for a much longer time. I realize that the clear tubing may not be a good choice for the very long term due to heat and oil but a short term test might work.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:30 PM   #177
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Catia....I do have beady eyes......and not much hair on top of my head!

I never tried the clear hose, but it should show. Take and make it long enough to loop it so it actually shows the oil pull through. I use the clear cass fuel filet in all the tests we have done over the years as it has a white filter media in it and easy to see, and on motors w/excess blow-by we have even seen ours let some through. But the main ones I respect the design of on here show very little, and then some show a ton even though they are awesome looking quality pieces. It all comes down to the internal design and the size. Go to small and the flow never gets to slow enough to allow the condensed oil to fall out of suspension to be trapped. Anyone that has visited the shop see's the collection of catch cans dissected and why some work far better than others even though they may look similar in appearance.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:09 AM   #178
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Basically this guy in post 156 says catch cans are a joke and 160 T-stats follow as being a joke! dayum!

8 pages of confusion! Now I'll never mod my car!
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:47 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidcroft View Post
Basically this guy in post 156 says catch cans are a joke and 160 T-stats follow as being a joke! dayum!

8 pages of confusion! Now I'll never mod my car!
A high quality catch-can is good, there are a ton of opinions on this and other forums. You have to take them for what they are and find the people that know what they're talking about. You could drive yourself nuts if you listen to everyone. Regarding the 160 T-Stat, I don't recommend them in our engines. We use the 180 T-Stats in our forced induction builds but they generate more heat. I'd keep that stock unless you go FI.

Please feel free to call, email or PM me anytime with questions. I'm always happy to try and help lessen the confusion!

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Old 11-29-2011, 10:53 AM   #180
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:53 PM   #181
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I got pulled into this catch can mania,when I owned a 2006 dodge charger,before my camaro.Every oil change I'd go to empty it and there was barely anything in it.I decided to pass on it when I got the camaro-not too sure if it does anything.
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:19 PM   #182
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I got pulled into this catch can mania,when I owned a 2006 dodge charger,before my camaro.Every oil change I'd go to empty it and there was barely anything in it.I decided to pass on it when I got the camaro-not too sure if it does anything.
Do some more searches here and find all the actual data you need to show you do want one. I expect you bought a pretty useless can before as the mopars have big issues as well.

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