No Coolant

[2010SLVRBULIT]

Originally Posted by kutch720

Not sure what you mean by color in compartment? She look like water vapors out the tail pipe. It is white. Not a thick white. No smell of burning coolant. Oil looks clean. Just can't believe that after 20,000 miles my coolant is gone. Debating on whether to take it to the dealership or just try and see what happens.

my coolant was low @ 3k,...like WTH? Now I have a habit of checking all the fluids constantly..and I'm only @ 6k
..if it is an airlock, just have them do a flush..

[jd10013]

Originally Posted by 90503

If a bubble...maybe run the heater/defroster wide open?...get the coolant moving...dunno...

I can't remember fur sure what they did to get it out, but I think they ran the car with the radiator cap off. I'm guessing they didn't want it pressurizing. and like I said, they had it out in a matter of minutes.

[kutch720]

So i am thinking of testing my thermoatat. Wondering if the dealer is down with that and fixes the problem they won't charge. I have a feeling that it is sticking. Any thoughts?

[90503]

Originally Posted by kutch720

So i am thinking of testing my thermoatat. Wondering if the dealer is down with that and fixes the problem they won't charge. I have a feeling that it is sticking. Any thoughts?

What about the cooling fan? Is that coming on?...Even if you test the thermostat, you may not be able to tell if its opening all the way...couldn't hurt to replace it anyway...its relatively cheap.

[kutch720]

Originally Posted by 90503

What about the cooling fan? Is that coming on?...Even if you test the thermostat, you may not be able to tell if its opening all the way...couldn't hurt to replace it anyway...its relatively cheap.

UGH!!! Your right. I wish these cars today were like the older cars. No computers and electronics. Easier to troubleshoot!!!!!! What I have learned in the past, start with the cheaper fixes and work from there.

[90503]

Originally Posted by kutch720

UGH!!! Your right. I wish these cars today were like the older cars. No computers and electronics. Easier to troubleshoot!!!!!! What I have learned in the past, start with the cheaper fixes and work from there.

Thermostat is about the cheapest thing that can do the most damage!...lol...Hell, in SoCal, we used to just run without them!...lol

[TheHorse13]

My fans on the SS come on at 218 degrees just like clock work. I know this because I was idling in 90 degree heat one day and each time they came on at 218 degrees.

I had a Jeep with a similar issue as you and it turned out that the radiator cap was bad. The system was not pressurizing.

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by kutch720

Air bubble makes sense. Going to run it tommorow and if she gets a high temp again going to take a picture and show them. Also, GM stated 226 degrees in within spec. I am an engineer in the Coast Guard and I know all about within spec. I have a feeling this is going to be a run around deal.

The first thing I would do is make sure the system is full and no bubbles.

You do this by starting with a cold engine.

Fill radiator and fill the surge tank to the cold full level. Leave the rad cap off.

You want to be watching the radiator, and have a helper in the car watching the RPM and temp guage. Tell them, don't let it overheat.

In park or neutral, parking brake set, wheels chocked.

Have helper start the car and let idle for 2 minutes. Then raise the RPM to 2500 for 45 to 60 seconds. You add coolant during this time to the radiator if you see it go down. Toward the end you should see the coolant moving as the thermostat opened. The speed of the water pump at 2500 rpm will clear any air pockets. There is also an air bleed hose that goes from the engine to the top of the radiator. That will bleed any air pockets out while you hold the rpm up.

Put the cap back on, let it completely cool down, and repeat later in the day.
After doing that a couple times, the system should be completely fee of air pockets, your rad should be full when cold, and the surge tank should be at the full cold mark when cold.

Once you know all that. Then do some road testing to watch the temps and observe the fans. If it is still overheating, your going to need a scan tool to observe the fan relays. No problems with the fans, then get into testing/replacing the thermostat.

But usually you can see if the thermostat is working while you are bleeding the system. After the cold start, there won't be much flow seen in the radiator. Then after a bit at the 2500 rpm, all the sudden there will be a lot of flow in there when the thermostat opens. If you don't see a lot of movement in the radiator and the gauge is climing past center.... then I'd suspect the stat is not opening.

While doing all this checking, don't let it overheat. If the coolant starts to go 230+, shut down and let things cool down. You can also turn the heater on full blast to help it cool down.