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Old 08-11-2012, 12:40 PM   #141
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That's the hole i'm talking about. I will dig around and try to find it when i get home. I'll hit you up in a little bit.
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:58 PM   #142
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Also, i just noticed that you used different mounting holes than PQ and myself. Don't know which is right or what effect it has on the tensioner operation.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:37 PM   #143
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Here is the belt I bought.

Gates K060950 at O'Reilly

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0074&ppt=C0007
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:41 PM   #144
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Thanks. I appreciate the info.

What do you think about the placement of Kronix tensioner. With the choice of bolt holes, doesn't it move it closer to the idler and provide less tension?
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:43 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lexlueger View Post
If you can't slide the idler over to the tensioner then you have the wrong BELT. You shouldn't be touching your super tensioner at all for belt tension. I have all my old belts if you need part numbers .
I do agree that the belt should be a bit bigger to get he idler closer to the tensioner pulley.

But you HAVE to pry the tensioner pulley toward the idler at the same time as the idler pulley toward the tensioner. Why would you not? I"ve never ever ever on any car not done it this way. If you only pry the idler then you have to force the tensioner to slack up by prying the idler against the belt to tighten the tension on the tensioner. Makes it WAY harder. That's what a tensioner is for. So you can get the belt on and off by releasing tension.

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Originally Posted by lexlueger View Post
He's got NO belt wrap until he gets that idler over. That thing will slip all day.
Agreed.

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Originally Posted by Kronix View Post
That's what I was trying to do when this whole thing started.

First off, I know I have the right belt on there. The car only has 1500 miles and that's the belt that came with Maggie. My shop where I used to live did all the install, then I moved 185 miles south, and I always noticed that the pulley should be closer to super tensioner, so i tried to do it myself. Plus I had bought a Billet Idler pulley and thought about replacing that after seeing how easy it would be to move idler.

1. I loosened the idler pulley a little bit, then because of belt tension it slide to the right. I figured because it moved to the right, that it was loose enough to slide to left.

2. At first I used a small pry bar like Ted recommended, gently against my throttle body. Because it's so tight in there I was trying to keep pry bar as close as possible, I took off the CAI silicon sleeve and saw that I bent the outer rim of TB with pry bar. Then I fixed that first before doing the pulley again. Then I came on here and started searching how to move over idler pulley....and here I am!

3. From what Supercharged SS said, maybe I have to really loosen the idler bolt in order to make it slide over?

How do you do it Lexlueger?

I have to bring the car to Haddad's here in LA on Thursday for a tune and to go over some future work since that'll be my new local shop, but I was supposed to go on a cruise on Sunday and don't want any problems. I'm going to try to slide it over again today, and it's early here on the west coast, so maybe I can get some good info before I attempt again.
I know I'm not a big time mechanic but you need to releae tensioner on the tensioner AND pull the idler over at the same time. If it doesn't go then you need a bigger belt.

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When I installed my Maggie, the kit provided a long bolt that goes into that empty bolt hole just to the upper right of the idler pulley. That is what they recommended using to pry against, not the TB. It worked like a charm. Once I get the belt, That's how I'm gonna do mine.
Mine did too. BUT it also called for realeasing tension on the stock tensioner at the same time.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:44 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blufin View Post
Also, i just noticed that you used different mounting holes than PQ and myself. Don't know which is right or what effect it has on the tensioner operation.
Blufin, that's an old picture, but it had the hole visible. I have since changed the holes to the correct ones pers Ted's suggestion and the same ones you & PQ used. You can see them on the original pic I posted yesterday. It has the black crinkle coat tensioner, that's the current location.
Thanks for your help!
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:45 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blufin View Post
Thanks. I appreciate the info.

What do you think about the placement of Kronix tensioner. With the choice of bolt holes, doesn't it move it closer to the idler and provide less tension?
Like he said, I figured it was an older pic due to the finish on the newer pic.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:12 PM   #148
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Here is a photo of the Maggie instruction page showing the bolt. Manual states it is 15mm and it looks to be about 4 inches long. I can't find mine in the mess of a garage.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:35 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by blufin View Post
Here is a photo of the Maggie instruction page showing the bolt. Manual states it is 15mm and it looks to be about 4 inches long. I can't find mine in the mess of a garage.
Thanks Blu, the head size is 15mm, any idea of thread pattern?
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:49 PM   #150
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No, but I'll continue to look for my bolt.
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Old 08-11-2012, 06:12 PM   #151
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Your belt needs to be much tighter. Jre recommeneds 1/4" gap between tensioner and idler. Have a buddy put a 1/2" ratchet on you tensioner, loosen your 15mm on the idler, use a 36" pry bar and move your idler pulley toward the tensioner by prying against the throttle body. when the idler and tensioner touch then tighten down the 15mm bolt on the idler. start your car and the belt will loosen and give you the 1/4" your after. if its more than 1/4" repeat the process and make it tighter.

note if you use the supplied bolt it will bend and make it tough. pry on the tb gently and it works much better.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:53 PM   #152
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I've tried everything,, including bending my throttle body using a pry bar. I guess when I bring it to Haddad's on Thursday for a tune, I'll let them fix the idler pulley.

Nothing pisses me off more than contacting a sponsor that I bought an expensive piece of machinery from and completely telling my problem in depth only to receive a one sentence, barely in english reply....They have no problem taking my money, but god-forbid I ask for help and I get a better answer from a 5 year old. Not trying to point fingers here, but from now on I buy local, tune local, and support my local speed shops....I thank everyone here for trying to help me with this, you have been much more helpful than the sponsor has been....And to think I was going to be placing a huge order order with him but if this is the customer service I get...No Thank you, there's plenty of other speed shop that take the time to make sure they help their customers.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:12 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kronix View Post
That's what I was trying to do when this whole thing started.

First off, I know I have the right belt on there. The car only has 1500 miles and that's the belt that came with Maggie. My shop where I used to live did all the install, then I moved 185 miles south, and I always noticed that the pulley should be closer to super tensioner, so i tried to do it myself. Plus I had bought a Billet Idler pulley and thought about replacing that after seeing how easy it would be to move idler.

1. I loosened the idler pulley a little bit, then because of belt tension it slide to the right. I figured because it moved to the right, that it was loose enough to slide to left.

2. At first I used a small pry bar like Ted recommended, gently against my throttle body. Because it's so tight in there I was trying to keep pry bar as close as possible, I took off the CAI silicon sleeve and saw that I bent the outer rim of TB with pry bar. Then I fixed that first before doing the pulley again. Then I came on here and started searching how to move over idler pulley....and here I am!

3. From what Supercharged SS said, maybe I have to really loosen the idler bolt in order to make it slide over?

How do you do it Lexlueger?

I have to bring the car to Haddad's here in LA on Thursday for a tune and to go over some future work since that'll be my new local shop, but I was supposed to go on a cruise on Sunday and don't want any problems. I'm going to try to slide it over again today, and it's early here on the west coast, so maybe I can get some good info before I attempt again.
Did you loosen the idler bolt until the pulley itself springs away from the tensioner?


I had to edit this. The idler will spring away from the tensioner and not toward it.

Last edited by Supercharged SS; 08-11-2012 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:34 PM   #154
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Quote:
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Did you loosen the idler bolt until the pulley itself springs over toward the tensioner?
SS, I removed the throttle body and tried to jury rig a level to push pulley over. I loosened the idler pulley quite a bit, but could not get it to move closer to the tensioner. I'm at my wits end. I can't understand why you guys have such an easy time with this?
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