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#141 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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That's the hole i'm talking about. I will dig around and try to find it when i get home. I'll hit you up in a little bit.
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#142 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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Also, i just noticed that you used different mounting holes than PQ and myself. Don't know which is right or what effect it has on the tensioner operation.
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#143 |
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Booooosted.
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Here is the belt I bought.
Gates K060950 at O'Reilly http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0074&ppt=C0007 |
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#144 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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Thanks. I appreciate the info.
What do you think about the placement of Kronix tensioner. With the choice of bolt holes, doesn't it move it closer to the idler and provide less tension?
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#145 | ||||
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Booooosted.
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Quote:
But you HAVE to pry the tensioner pulley toward the idler at the same time as the idler pulley toward the tensioner. Why would you not? I"ve never ever ever on any car not done it this way. If you only pry the idler then you have to force the tensioner to slack up by prying the idler against the belt to tighten the tension on the tensioner. Makes it WAY harder. That's what a tensioner is for. So you can get the belt on and off by releasing tension. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by PQ; 08-11-2012 at 02:51 PM. |
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#146 | |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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Quote:
Thanks for your help! |
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#147 |
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Booooosted.
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Like he said, I figured it was an older pic due to the finish on the newer pic.
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#148 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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Here is a photo of the Maggie instruction page showing the bolt. Manual states it is 15mm and it looks to be about 4 inches long. I can't find mine in the mess of a garage.
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#149 |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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Thanks Blu, the head size is 15mm, any idea of thread pattern?
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#150 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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No, but I'll continue to look for my bolt.
__________________
12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#151 |
![]() Drives: 2010 SS M6 2016 2SS A8 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 553
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Your belt needs to be much tighter. Jre recommeneds 1/4" gap between tensioner and idler. Have a buddy put a 1/2" ratchet on you tensioner, loosen your 15mm on the idler, use a 36" pry bar and move your idler pulley toward the tensioner by prying against the throttle body. when the idler and tensioner touch then tighten down the 15mm bolt on the idler. start your car and the belt will loosen and give you the 1/4" your after. if its more than 1/4" repeat the process and make it tighter.
note if you use the supplied bolt it will bend and make it tough. pry on the tb gently and it works much better.
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TVS 2300 721RWHP 686RWTQ
Built by Me Suspension done by JDP Tune done by JRE |
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#152 |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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I've tried everything,, including bending my throttle body using a pry bar. I guess when I bring it to Haddad's on Thursday for a tune, I'll let them fix the idler pulley.
Nothing pisses me off more than contacting a sponsor that I bought an expensive piece of machinery from and completely telling my problem in depth only to receive a one sentence, barely in english reply....They have no problem taking my money, but god-forbid I ask for help and I get a better answer from a 5 year old. Not trying to point fingers here, but from now on I buy local, tune local, and support my local speed shops....I thank everyone here for trying to help me with this, you have been much more helpful than the sponsor has been....And to think I was going to be placing a huge order order with him but if this is the customer service I get...No Thank you, there's plenty of other speed shop that take the time to make sure they help their customers. |
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#153 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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Quote:
I had to edit this. The idler will spring away from the tensioner and not toward it. Last edited by Supercharged SS; 08-11-2012 at 10:40 PM. |
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#154 |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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SS, I removed the throttle body and tried to jury rig a level to push pulley over. I loosened the idler pulley quite a bit, but could not get it to move closer to the tensioner. I'm at my wits end. I can't understand why you guys have such an easy time with this?
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