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#43 |
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The only time I've had the car N/A was when I got it new. When the car got 10K miles on it I had the TVS2300, cam, headers, CAI all installed at once. Once that motor needed to be freshened up I went with the forged stroker with fairly good components in it for some security and perceived durability. The stock motor was at around 530 WHP and I'm about 100 up on that now with a considerable increase in torque across the board. I can tell you the manacharger will get you to 10 psi with this combo for sure. For me , that's all I have planned for a while .
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#44 |
![]() Drives: Slow Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 268
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So, I'll probably be going with a D series ProCharger. 7-8 psi. Looking at keeping the same cam and upgrading fuel. Going to make some calls this week and see what I kind find.
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#45 |
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Banned
Drives: 2011 CTS-V, 2010 SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: There
Posts: 118
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lol when will people learn that chasing hp numbers is always better/more satisfying boosting.
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#46 | |
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USAF retired! Thank God!
Drives: 2011 1SS, 1LT red,1LT/RS SGM 98Z28 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Texas
Posts: 2,799
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I was able to get 11-12 psi out of my D1SC running a 3.7" pulley and 700/700rwhp/tq. I have major belt slip at 5300rpm and thats where my HP numbers peaked and flat lined all the way to 7000rpm so I am leaving about a hundred or so hp on the table. My motor was built at 9.4:1 CR, i have always planned to crank the boost way up. Next up is a TT system and 18-20 psi
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#47 | |
![]() Drives: Slow Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 268
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#48 |
![]() Drives: Slow Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 268
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Ya know. This thing is going to be purposed as a street car, no intentions on ever turning it into a track monster. Any chance I will regret procharging it?
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#49 |
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Served USN - Atomic Chimp
Drives: 2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE A10 (stock) Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,713
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I'm with that very question.
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#50 |
![]() Drives: Slow Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 268
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#51 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,553
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I would look at Bull's build and the issues he has mentioned in his last few posts though with his D series blower. I personally would go bigger than the D1SC, just in case you ever decide to crank it up, you're not having to buy parts again. I've replaced replacement parts already and it bites you in the ass even harder the second time. Figure out where you want to be, and buy at least 1 step bigger so you will still have room to grow. I haven't seen anyone build a car to meet their goals of 600rwhp, that hasn't come back and bumped it to 650, then 700, etc... When I started my plans, I wanted 550rwhp and passed that by nearly 100 and I'm still looking at adding a little more. A 750hp car can be incredibly street friendly when its done right, and that will make you want more. I think it's sickness.
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#52 | |
![]() Drives: Slow Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 268
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#53 | |
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USAF retired! Thank God!
Drives: 2011 1SS, 1LT red,1LT/RS SGM 98Z28 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Texas
Posts: 2,799
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Excellent advice. I would start with an F1C and pulley it accordingly. This will leave you the option to go all the way to 900rwhp if you ever get bored. The F1C should not be too much more than a complete D1SC setup. I was going to go the F1c route when we maxed out the D1 on my new motor but my shop said they would like to do Twin Turbo using PTE6766 turbos. This will be a custom install/build and it will be less than upgrading to an F1 head unit. (they are really hooking me up with this!) In all honesty, i am having a bunch of fun with the D1 at the moment. The torque of this motor down low and the power up top is pretty un manageable, and im only at 700/700 rwhp/rwtq. This is with the HP peaking at only 5300 due to major belt slip. The D1 is maxxed out Im not too sure how accurate this dynocom dyno was however. Later in the week my car toasted the bearings on the dyno while working some tune issues. So i dont know if the dyno was completely accurate during the tune. I know my butt dyno indicates this car has a lot more than it did on the LS3 when i was at 715/611 rwhp/tq. TT will put me over 1000 to the wheels
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#54 | |
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Annihilator
Drives: 2012 45th ERL-427 F1X Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: KY
Posts: 334
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Exceptional advice!!!! Also look on the forum Marketplace. There was an F1R cog at a killer price at one point. You can often save $s going with slightly used items from this forum and get more than you planned to originally.
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ERL M3 Superdeck 427 Forged, Dragon Slayer Crank, Black Label Heads : ProCharger F1X Cog - Holley HighRam : Jakes4L80e CircleD - DSS 9" 1400 axles/shaft, BMR Suspension : Extreme Innovations 15 : Squash, Bosch 127lb FI : ALKY Twin Meth
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#55 |
![]() Drives: Slow Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: IN
Posts: 268
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If I can find a used intercooler/F1 kit I would be game. Would have to chase down some fuel system components, but I would rather buy those new.
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#56 | |
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USAF retired! Thank God!
Drives: 2011 1SS, 1LT red,1LT/RS SGM 98Z28 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Texas
Posts: 2,799
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Keep whatever you come up with fed well and it should last a while
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