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Old 11-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #743
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Originally Posted by Pathogen View Post
How long did it take for the burning smell to go away?
It took a day or so to not smell any more oil just depends on how much got in there. It will always be stinky now though without cats.
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:53 AM   #744
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Originally Posted by etmx183 View Post
I see the parts list growing, this thing should be a beast when done. Looking good.
Thanks man it should be a lot of fun. It's going to be one hell of a sleeper!
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:58 AM   #745
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Originally Posted by alice View Post
You are correct in your evaluation of this engine failure. I have built turbo motors all my life and on everyone of them, in order to avoid the issue of the intercooler collecting oil and/or condensed water, you simply drill a .040/.050 diameter hole in the lowest point of the intercooler and as close to the outlet as possible. This will completely eliminate a slug of anything getting into the intake. Never had a problem in the many, many builds I have done over the years. And don't believe anyone who says you will loose any significant amount of boost because you won't. Yes, theoretically but you couldn't measure it without extremely sensitive instruments. All condensation of any oil/water will automatically be expelled out of that tiny hole as it accumulates. I have seen so many blown motors due to this one small oversite.

And to address your complaint about throttle response, one absolute solution to this issue is to purchase a Vitessee throttle controller. When I installed this unit on my LLT, it was like a differnt car!!!!! The throttle response was unbelievable. I swear by these units. Silly simple install and adjustable throttle response on the fly. A MUST!
That's interesting, never heard of anyone drilling a hole like that. Kind of like the seepholes in mufflers. How messy does it stay underneath from the oil?
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3.6L Twin Turbo V6
Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:26 PM   #746
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Never had a mess of any kind. First of all, if oil is getting into the intercooler, I would assume something is very wrong. The compressor side of the turbocharger/s must be leaking oil and they absolutely should not be doing that. It would really mess up the MAF sensor for sure. If everything is working properly, the only liquid that should possibly accumulate in the intercooler is water, due to condensation and that is just blown out the hole. No loss of boost, no mess. 30,000 miles of driving.

Last edited by alice; 11-29-2015 at 05:29 PM. Reason: added information
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Old 11-30-2015, 12:02 AM   #747
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Never had a mess of any kind. First of all, if oil is getting into the intercooler, I would assume something is very wrong. The compressor side of the turbocharger/s must be leaking oil and they absolutely should not be doing that. It would really mess up the MAF sensor for sure. If everything is working properly, the only liquid that should possibly accumulate in the intercooler is water, due to condensation and that is just blown out the hole. No loss of boost, no mess. 30,000 miles of driving.
When I pulled the intercooler and found the oil I was shocked. I don't know how it got there or how long it took it to get to that point. Really makes me nervous now that I'm building this motor and don't want to ruin it. Could be turbo seals like you said but I'd be surprised since they're garret and only have 5k on them. I guess my scavenge pump could have gone out on that last 1/4 mile run but I would think it would go out the exhaust side more than the intake side. But maybe at full boost the intake sides pull more oil through than the exhaust sides when backing up? If neither of those then it has to be my evac setup and the way I have it routed, which is what I think is really going on. But I'm planning on changing my evac setup and hopefully get things working right again.
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Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:58 AM   #748
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Bearings all look perfect so as long as the crank journals measure out good, I'll reuse all of them since they only have 5k miles on them and I bagged and marked every bearing to go back the same spot they came from.
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3.6L Twin Turbo V6
Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:00 AM   #749
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All tore down and ready for the machine shop.
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Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:31 AM   #750
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These are pictures of all the valves from this '15 LFX heads with only 5k miles on them. #1 and #2 are the only ones that have oil/carbon build up and #1 is really bad. The rest don't look nice and clean but they have more of a white build up on them.

This is #1, #2, and #3
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Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:34 AM   #751
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#4, #5, and #6
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Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:26 PM   #752
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If your oil scavenge system is not working properly in evacuating oil from the turbochargers, most of the time it will come out on the turbine side but many, many times, I have seen it come out the compressor side, as well. Just depends on the type of scavenge failure. From what you have said, If you had a pump failure, even for 1 minute, I believe this best explains the oil in the intercooler. However, it could have also come from the PCV system, over time, depending on the design and system efficiency. I have seen both problems, oil pump scavenge issues explaining most of the instances of oil in the intercooler. You definitely want to determine where it came from and correct it. MAF sensors really hate oil and will upset a tune in a heartbeat. That is why I have always recommended drilling that .040 hole in the bottom of the outlet of the intercooler. If you ever see residual oil at the hole, or trailing from it, you know for sure something is wrong. Oil should NEVER come out the hole, only a bit of water which leaves no trail. Hope this explanation helps.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:32 PM   #753
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why don't you walnut shell blast the valves and clean them up so they work and look like new
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:06 AM   #754
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Originally Posted by alice View Post
If your oil scavenge system is not working properly in evacuating oil from the turbochargers, most of the time it will come out on the turbine side but many, many times, I have seen it come out the compressor side, as well. Just depends on the type of scavenge failure. From what you have said, If you had a pump failure, even for 1 minute, I believe this best explains the oil in the intercooler. However, it could have also come from the PCV system, over time, depending on the design and system efficiency. I have seen both problems, oil pump scavenge issues explaining most of the instances of oil in the intercooler. You definitely want to determine where it came from and correct it. MAF sensors really hate oil and will upset a tune in a heartbeat. That is why I have always recommended drilling that .040 hole in the bottom of the outlet of the intercooler. If you ever see residual oil at the hole, or trailing from it, you know for sure something is wrong. Oil should NEVER come out the hole, only a bit of water which leaves no trail. Hope this explanation helps.
Your posts are always helpful Monty thanks. I'm leaning more towards the pcv because I know it was getting worse towards the end(i must have been getting a lot of blow by and crankcase pressure) as far as how much oil was getting into the filter on my turbo compressor. See the way I had my MightYMouse catch can hooked up was one line going to the passenger rear valve cover and the other line(with valve) going to the intake vacuum. Then I had an oil cap fitting that went to my air filter on my turbo. This acted as the fresh air but when WOT it would pull/push oil into the turbo filter. I was just never really happy with how the MM system was working. Im sure the can itself works fine just not the way I had it setup. Either way I will be changing my whole evac system.

I still need to check and make sure there are no problems with the turbo seals and scavenge pump. Scavenge pumps have always made me nervous. I would like to wire in some sort of idiot light or something to let me know if the scavenge pump stops running. Like if it were to stop pumping during a 1/4 mile run. I've only had it not work one time and that was when in first stated the car after putting the turbos on. I forgot to put an extra fuse in my jumper so the pump had no power. It idled for about 2 minutes before starting to smoke a TON out of the exhaust. None in the intake But that was at idle, maybe at full boost it works differently and more oil gets pulled into the intak side of the turbo? I'm not sure how that works. All I know is I have too much money in this new motor to have this reacur. These new rods are strong but they won't compress a liquid either and I would be in the same boat. I like your 0.040 hole idea though since that would let you know if you have oil in the intercooler without actually pulling all the tubing apart.
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3.6L Twin Turbo V6
Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:22 AM   #755
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why don't you walnut shell blast the valves and clean them up so they work and look like new
I'll definitely be cleaning the valves. That walnut blasting looks pretty effective. I've never cleaned valves that way. Since I have the heads off I should probably just take them apart and clean them that way, and check the guides and seats. You would think that would all be fine with only 5k miles but I wouldn't have thought the valves would have been this nasty either.
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3.6L Twin Turbo V6
Garrett GT28 turbos -- Jacfab forged connecting rods -- Diamond forged pistons(10.5:1) -- Alky Control Methonal Injection -- CircleD 2E triple disc torque converter -- BMR suspension
10.75 @ 131mph
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:59 AM   #756
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When you are all finished getting the engine back together i will pm u my shipping address..will make a nice xmas gift...thanks, very generous of you!!
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