Overkill Products-80mm Throttle Body, Tuning Service, E85 Kit

[IamR3D88]

One day I will, but if i didn't want a warranty, I would have ended up with a used Corvette or something else faster and cheaper, maybe add some boost

2015 Camaro 2LT/RS

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by IamR3D88

One day I will, but if i didn't want a warranty, I would have ended up with a used Corvette or something else faster and cheaper, maybe add some boost

2015 Camaro 2LT/RS

I agree with your concerns over the warranty. You've got to be smart. This last time at the dealership went like this for me. I paid for the ecu GM software update, which they threatened me that voided my warranty and gave me a service bulletin for reason not to replaced one headlight that fogs up internally. I asked them to replace the other one that doesn't fog up then if the fogging is normal. Because one does and one doesn't. So that is about how far I think of GM warranty and the dealers. That's just me. You pay one way or another so I've thrown the towel in and will have fun with my camaro how I see fit. But it's not my DD.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

a Spohn rear seat bar and end links

??

Sway bar?

[derek1387]

Originally Posted by Shawno72

I think I'll hit the dyno in the area just see where I'm at. This thing has gotten wicked fast. Earlier I hit a country road outside of town and from a dead stop I hit it and rowed the gears till I hit about 122 then I noticed a car on my tail and I was like uh oh. Well I backed off and a ctsv pulled up next to me and was giving me a huge thumbs up. Made my day haha

Also what should I look at the get rid of wheel hop?

I started with trailing arms, outer trailing arm bushings and toe rods. Relatively inexpensive, very easy to install, and might as well do them when you do the 1LE stuff. Night and day difference

I want to do subframe and diff bushings but those are a nightmare apparently.

[derek1387]

Originally Posted by IamR3D88

I am VERY interested in stock to 80mm tb with jacfab ported manifold numbers both un-tuned. I'm one of those guys afraid to get warranty issues with a tune, so I am really looking for easy bolt on power.

2015 Camaro 2LT/RS

I had/have the same concerns. But, after talking with will, decided to go through with it. Having the ability to flash back to stock quickly and easily is a big plus.

Have a chat with Will about your concerns. He does not try to sell you on it. But he makes very good points about both options

And I will have dyno results for just about every combo we can think of as soon as I can book a few hours in the dyno ($$$) and get the rest of the parts in from Jason and Will. I'll document everything I can to help you all out.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by derek1387

I started with trailing arms, outer trailing arm bushings and toe rods. Relatively inexpensive, very easy to install, and might as well do them when you do the 1LE stuff. Night and day difference

I want to do subframe and diff bushings but those are a nightmare apparently.

The subframe bushings are not as difficult as some might same. I have the diff bushings but am holding off because from what I've read those really make a big difference in road noise. If you get interested in subframe bushings then I'll tell you the heat the outter subframe area around the bushing with a torch while putting pressure on them works excellent. A few blogs on this or pm me if you get close to doing them.

[etmx183]

Diff bushings ( BMR solid ones for me ) and 1 piece driveshaft added some road noise to the interior for sure. Just sounds like you riding with the windows part way down to me.

[Shawno72]

Originally Posted by derek1387

I started with trailing arms, outer trailing arm bushings and toe rods. Relatively inexpensive, very easy to install, and might as well do them when you do the 1LE stuff. Night and day difference

I want to do subframe and diff bushings but those are a nightmare apparently.

Yeah I will def do those parts when I exchange out the struts for 1le struts.

Originally Posted by Redhotls1

The subframe bushings are not as difficult as some might same. I have the diff bushings but am holding off because from what I've read those really make a big difference in road noise. If you get interested in subframe bushings then I'll tell you the heat the outter subframe area around the bushing with a torch while putting pressure on them works excellent. A few blogs on this or pm me if you get close to doing them.

Dropping the subframe is probably more that I want to do right now Lol. Also what about just doing the inserts?

Originally Posted by etmx183

Diff bushings ( BMR solid ones for me ) and 1 piece driveshaft added some road noise to the interior for sure. Just sounds like you riding with the windows part way down to me.

How was it On putting power to the ground though?

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by Shawno72

Yeah I will def do those parts when I exchange out the struts for 1le struts.



Dropping the subframe is probably more that I want to do right now Lol. Also what about just doing the inserts?



How was it On putting power to the ground though?

The inserts for the bushings where the same price when I purchase and I had read that people had not liked the result so ended up going to the full bushing. Some do the solid but I again am trying to get an excellent ride with as little extra road noise as possible. A fine line for sure. I had given myself a full weekend to to all the rearend with cradle bushings, upper control arm delrin bmr bushings, bmr lower control arms, trailing and toe arms and all poly bushings that were not already in the new arms.
You should be fine with wheel hop with trailing and toe arms. They are fairly simple. The drivers inner toe bolt was tough to get out. I just wanted to get rid of that rear steering feeling when I went around tight corners. It would kind of squat and try to rear steer. Now it is tight. I figured I'd fix it all while I had it all apart.

[Shawno72]

Originally Posted by Redhotls1

The inserts for the bushings where the same price when I purchase and I had read that people had not liked the result so ended up going to the full bushing. Some do the solid but I again am trying to get an excellent ride with as little extra road noise as possible. A fine line for sure. I had given myself a full weekend to to all the rearend with cradle bushings, upper control arm delrin bmr bushings, bmr lower control arms, trailing and toe arms and all poly bushings that were not already in the new arms.
You should be fine with wheel hop with trailing and toe arms. They are fairly simple. The drivers inner toe bolt was tough to get out. I just wanted to get rid of that rear steering feeling when I went around tight corners. It would kind of squat and try to rear steer. Now it is tight. I figured I'd fix it all while I had it all apart.

Good to know. Thank you.

[etmx183]

I have 1.60 -1.61 60' times, so I would say pretty good. I have DRs and other BMR parts also.

Originally Posted by Shawno72

Yeah I will def do those parts when I exchange out the struts for 1le struts.



Dropping the subframe is probably more that I want to do right now Lol. Also what about just doing the inserts?



How was it On putting power to the ground though?

[Shawno72]

Originally Posted by etmx183

I have 1.60 -1.61 60' times, so I would say pretty good. I have DRs and other BMR parts also.

Nice. I can't wait to get more suspension goodies. Loving the way this car handles.

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

??

Sway bar?

Yeah, sway bar... damn phone.

I went with Spohn over BMR on the sway bar because I liked the lower claimed % of stiffness from hole to hole better than BMR. I imagine either would be fine though.

Spohn claimed ratings 80%/120%/170%
BMR claimed ratings 100%/175%/300%

I run my spohn bar on the 2nd hole.

[derek1387]

First intake elbow showed up, was a bust. I think a regular 90 MIGHT just be able to do it...if the legs are long enough. The seller said it was 4" legs...pretty sure these were only like 2"...just didnt cut it.