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Old 03-08-2011, 08:29 PM   #15
usa1camaro1969
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Rod1 posted dynos before/after tune with longtube headers, his intake and there wasn't a huge gain so let's not get him thinking there is. It was around 5hp or less(I remember arguing it before). He's got a manual so there is no torque management delete bonus like the autos get.
The tune will maximize any gains and correct any a/f ratio issues and I am pleased with it, but I probably would've gone without had I not taken the next step.

No special notifications from OnStar, but as I stated the monthly diagnostic comes back stating there's an issue.
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:33 PM   #16
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The front O2 sensors are the ones making the corrections to the computer, the rears are reading whether the cats are functioning properly. That's the way I understand it.
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:47 PM   #17
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so the front does not really throw off the code but the rear does? does this only happen to LT with high flow or is it the same for catless? this is exactly what I am concerned with like kmprenger stated I dont want the ECU adjusting af because of the light.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by PoorMansCamaro View Post
I believe you are correct. Although I won't know for sure until I get a tune and redyno my car. I plan on doing one more dyno with my current setup and then plug in my finished tune and do another dyno.

I feel that my car isn't holding back though. But I have nothing to compare it with. Lol. Other people with a tune and same setup seem to be right around where I am HP wise on their dyno.
PoorMan I'll be interested to see what you find on the dyno with the before/after tune and if your A/F needs much tweaking at all.

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so the front does not really throw off the code but the rear does? does this only happen to LT with high flow or is it the same for catless? this is exactly what I am concerned with like kmprenger stated I dont want the ECU adjusting af because of the light.
I'm sure if you went catless the same would happen. If what we are thinking is correct, then it seems the rear 02s causing the light shouldn't cause the ECU to adjust fuel ratios.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:47 AM   #19
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The best tip I've seen for removing the O2 sensors is to apply some WD40, let it soak, and then use an open 7/8 inch wrench and tap it with a hammer. Worked like a charm on my car. That way you don't have to "muscle" the sensor off, dropping a thread in the process, and then creating a CEL from the leak.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:39 PM   #20
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Thanks poorman I defenitely will. So the o2 sensors are hard to get it off? and did you use just the regular hand tools or some type of air tools? I seen alot of install pics and read some instructions and it does not look too hard except getting to the bolts to remove the header but I have small hands and hopefully that will be to my advantage. My car was also built jan 28th 2011 so I think the bolts are still fresh and hopefully it wont be too hard to get them off.
if they are tight, just use a torch & heat the header around the sensor (I put it on the weld around the sensor boss) if you heat them, they will break free easily
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:50 PM   #21
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PoorMan I'll be interested to see what you find on the dyno with the before/after tune and if your A/F needs much tweaking at all.
Yeah, i'm interested as well! And i've made up my mind, i'm going N2O.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:31 PM   #22
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Yeah, i'm interested as well! And i've made up my mind, i'm going N2O.
lol...cool beans. Be seeing you in the 12s!
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:10 PM   #23
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They made 33 rwhp with just long tube header and no tune so you are saying that you can get more hp out of header with trifecta tune? I am sure you can but the question is how much and does it justify the extra $400 bucks especially for our manual cars. From what I been seeing I dont think so.
Well like I tell everyone... deciding to get a tune is a hard thing to decide. Many factors play into it.. and though, I'm not pushing you to get a tune... keep in mind, the tune will never be a bad thing. Yea, just depends if you got the money for the tune... 400-600 isn't cheap. Also, manuals can still lose more tq management, there is some, just hardly noticable. Tune can also remove speed limiter, and other fun things.

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Yeah, i'm interested as well! And i've made up my mind, i'm going N2O.
lol sweet ! =D
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:27 PM   #24
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To remove the 02 sensors just get the 7/8 socket with the slot in it that they sell at Pep-Boys specifically for 02 sensors and use a ratchet wit a 2 foot beaker bar. Worked like a charm for me on all 4 sensors with 30,000 miles. About the CEL, the front sensors deal with air/fuel so they would be the ones throwing the CEL in a lean/rich condition. The rear sensors only deal with the condition of the cats as stated above.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:14 PM   #25
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Also, manuals can still lose more tq management, there is some, just hardly noticable. Tune can also remove speed limiter, and other fun things.
I'll have to shoot him an email because I had specifically asked about the torque management. Hopefully he's found something new.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:27 PM   #26
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I'll have to shoot him an email because I had specifically asked about the torque management. Hopefully he's found something new.
Yes, I believe he said there was TQ management... However, I would doubt he would tell u to remove the rest, since the Manuals get beaten on enough =p. As I said, it's a small amount too... maybe 1/10th the strength of the stock Autos?

But yeah, if he replies to you, can you clarify? Like I said, I THINK there is TQMG, but i'd like to be proven right or wrong =) Thanks
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:17 PM   #27
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Not a problem. Don't know I'll adjust it now, though, until an upgraded clutch finds it's way on the market.
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