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Old 03-09-2012, 09:31 AM   #15
bpoirier

 
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When I swapped my calipers out. I used a c-clamp on the brake line. I squeezed it down just enough to stop the fluid from leaking. After I hooked the line up to the new caliper I removed the c-clamp and opened the outer bleeder screw first and then the inner srcrew, fluid gravity fed into the caliper. I just made sure I did the right rear first, then left rear, right front then left front. I just made sure to keep checking the master cylinder and topping it off as needed. The brake fluid does not come pouring out. It's just a slow trickle. Once I had them all done I topped off the master cylinder and cranked the car up. I pumped the brake pedal a couple of time to get the brake pads pushed back out. As the caliper pistons are fully retracted. I then topped off the master cylinder again and took it for a test drive. I had a nice firm brake pedal with no problems. Hope this is the explanation you were looking for. If I can be of any further assistance just let me know.
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:16 PM   #16
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What bpoirier said will work.

When I did mine I bled the brakes using a vacuum system that I made so i could do it myself.

Just start with the right rear caliper,then go to the left rear, then right front, then left front. In that order.

If you have any other questions, PM me your number and I'll call you.
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:57 PM   #17
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When I did my calipers, I just zip tied the lines so they were higher than the point of where they come out at the fender well (if that makes sense). I think I might have wrapped a lunch baggie around them just in case a little leaked out but nothing really did.

I remember that it didn't take that much to bleed them back to normal. I was actually surprised at how little it took. I think I only had to go around the car 4 times and the last one was a "just in case" because I thought it was going to take a lot more than it did.

I did not replace my clutch fluid but then again I have a seperate clutch fluid resivoir off of a GTO. I HIGHLY recommend that mod. It only costs about $15 for the resivoir.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34085

While you're at it, if you think you even remotely want to add stainless brake lines this is the time to do it.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:40 PM   #18
GearHeadPeter
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As far as which bleeding screw to do first the Chevy maintenance manual says to start with the inner one first, then move out to the outer one. Repeat the bleeding process with inner, then outer, check brake fluid in master cylinder, and go to the next tire. Correct caliper bleeding process is RR (Right Rear) first, LR (left Rear)next, RF (Right Front) third and LF (Left Front) last. Right is passenger side and left is Driver side.

Does that help? Yes I did the Brembo conversion on my V6 in December.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:51 PM   #19
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Ok people are saying the exact opposite things. Which is right?
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztsmith86 View Post
Ok people are saying the exact opposite things. Which is right?

What is opposite?

I didn't read every bit of each post here but scanning over them they look to say the same thing.

I've always gone by the rule that when you are bleeding brakes you start from the farthest point of the master cylinder and work your way forward to it. So, rear passenger side would be the farthest. Then the rear driver's side, then front passenger, then front driver (where the master cylinder is).
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:29 PM   #21
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Is this done with the car running? Off?
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:38 AM   #22
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Frankly, if you have never bled brakes before you should be taking the car to an expert to do this. Brakes are not something you should be learning as DIY exercise. If you insist on doing this yourself, buy a service manual. ABS equipped cars sometimes cannot be properly bled without being hooked up to a master tech, tech II, etc. to open the abs valves in the controller.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:41 AM   #23
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I started by gravity bleeding then after most of the bubbles were out I did the 2 person approach with someone slowly applying the brakes while I opened the bleeder then close it when the bubbles are gone. Start with the inner right rear, then outer right rear, then inner left rear, outer left rear, inner right front, outer right front, inner left front, and finally outer left front.

I repeated the process and the brakes are perfect. No need for starting the car. If the ABS valves were closed I don't think that gravity bleeding would have even worked. I know it worked because I had to refill the reservoir a couple times during the process!
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:24 AM   #24
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Yeah I just did mine last weekend, and all I did was used the 1 man bleeder system, and my dad and I did em real quick. It's very simple.
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:23 AM   #25
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ZTSmith86, please forgive the thread jack, but can someone give me a good source and the part numbers for the torque to yield caliper bolts?. I am doing this install myself in a few weeks and want new bolts.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:09 AM   #26
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SS Rear Caliper Bolts (Rear, M12 x 1.75 x 60) : 11515781
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:25 PM   #27
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Thank you!!!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:28 PM   #28
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ZTSmith86...this is how to bleed with a mityvac. I have never done it but plan on it very soon after replacing the clutch line and return spring....

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165176

I also have a jpeg of the service manual explaining how its done...but I can't figure out how to add it to a reply...when I click "add photo" it comes up with a "http:" link...???
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