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Old 01-08-2012, 11:59 AM   #29
dfield23
 
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Wow thats not bad at all but i have never used any mat like that before and i dont feel confident in myself doing it. I feel like if i did it, it wouldn't make a difference.
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:08 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by dfield23 View Post
Wow thats not bad at all but i have never used any mat like that before and i dont feel confident in myself doing it. I feel like if i did it, it wouldn't make a difference.
it wouldn't make a difference who installs it. the easiest way to install it is to make sure it isn't cold (because it will be stiff) and cut it to fit before peeling off the backing. the best places to start are the rear deck, the trunk lid, and the rear quarters. those are the main areas to focus on to prevent rattling and sound from escaping the trunk.
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:32 PM   #31
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Yeah, its cake. Pull your carpet or panels off and clear the area, hold the pieces up to the area and trim with a box cutter or shears to fit, then stick it on and grab a roller from home depot to mash it down good. I promise you can screw it up.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:30 PM   #32
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I can screw up lol?? How do you matt the rear deck?
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:37 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by dfield23 View Post
I can screw up lol?? How do you matt the rear deck?
To mat the whole rear deck would mean pulling out the rear seat first. You really shouldn't have to throw sound deadening material on the whole rear deck unless you want to throw away money. Have you tried to pinpoint where the rattle is coming from? If it's from the rear deck, how did you figure that out? And if it is the rear deck then is it where the plastic meets the metal at the rear seat hook? If it's a rear deck speaker rattle then I would first eliminate which speaker is rattling by turning up the volume on the radio and then fading to each rear speaker. It might be that you just need to add dampening material in between the rear speaker housing and the deck underneath.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:20 PM   #34
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Dude i honestly cant tell. I open the trunk it makes an improvement but there is still a rattle in the back of the rear deck i balance the sound to both back speakers but there really isnt a differnece
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:35 AM   #35
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Try fading the music to the rear speakers only. Can you hear the rattling from outside of the trunk? If you can't then open the trunk and push up on the bottom of both of the rear speaker magnets. Did the rattle stop when you did that? If not, close the trunk lid and put the rear seat back down. Crank the music up...do you still hear the rattle with the rear seat down? If you do then you need to put weather stripping along the edge of the trunk lid nearest the rear window. An easy test is to have a friend push down on the trunk area near the rear window while you are inside with the music cranked. If the rattle stops when they push down on the trunk lid then you know the weather stripping will help to fill that slight void where the trunk lid meets the rear window area. If none of this helps with the rattle then most likely it isn't the rear deck at all and you probably need to start looking for rattles in the trunk somewhere.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:14 AM   #36
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I would just go ahead and do the whole deck. With 2 12's in there i'm sure that its probably not just the speaker area that is vibrating, its probably the whole metal package tray. Its not gonna hurt to do it.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:43 PM   #37
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Is rattle matt the thickest?
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:50 PM   #38
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80 mils is the thickest ive seen from any brand, which Rattle Trap is
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:02 PM   #39
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I'll see if I can post pics but it's easy to find. Inside the trunk take off the rear plastic panel. On either side, pull back the molded carpet that covers the sidewalls. If you have the premium BA system then on the left side right as you start pulling away the molded carpet you'll see the sorry excuse of an amp that's bolted in. You don't pull the carpet that far away from the sidewall and you'll see the plastic vents with thin flaps that slap against the plastic vent housing. It helps to have bass heavy music playing so you can see/hear what happens when the flaps move back and forth. There are tabs that you push down on from the top of the vent housing and then push out. There are two tabs on bottom too that you'll need to push up on and push the whole vent box out. After that, just dynamat and re attach the carpet/rear panel.
^^^ this was my rattle to I have been chasing it for 2 months now. does anyone know if it OK to remove them? I mean they are obviously there for a reason. I don't have much rattle inside the car, but when I stand near the trunk it sounds like crap. so much so that I have been rolling around with the sub pretty much turned to 0.
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:48 AM   #40
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listen to the difference on a sheet of metal

this is without:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...s/undamped.wav

And this is with just 25% of the area covered:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/sounds/damped.wav
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:00 PM   #41
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rattle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Out4it View Post
Try this. A tip, when doing this. Grab the magnet from within trunk and pull down. Then put screw in. Continue like this four all screws. Now I have a slight rattle somewhere else! http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184723
Thats definitely where the most of the rattles come from. contact from speaker to decklid and from trunklid to rear window area. Both can be fixed with foamstrip. Dont nee to remove speakers, just pry down the metal with a screwdriver and tuck a few pieces of 11/8" rubber strips between readdecklid and speaker frame. Rattles are gone. No Dynamat. Although they do help keeping metal surfaces from resonating but they only psy when you are using some serious wattage IMHO
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:55 PM   #42
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I made a a similar comment to another thread and I will copy and paste it here as well. When it comes to vibration caused by the sound system, anything you do to knock down that vibration will help the quality of your sound system as well as remove that annoying rattle outside the car.. nothing worse then hearing the plate on the car next to you crying the blues.

Take a look at my pics on my profile and you will see what should be done in the effort for a rattle reduces quality sound system. notice I said rattle reduced and not rattle free. you will never get a car to be rattle free.

this was my post on a similar issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cab2g
I'm personally tired of the rear woofers causing something to vibrate horribly when I listen to music with bass at volume 14... When it gets warm out, I'm going to loop a bass test track and find out what is vibrating...

this is caused by the rear deck, it is a single pretty much flat piece of sheet metal. the best way to correct this is to add a layer of Dynamat to the one side. then add a layer of MDF or plywood on the bottom. Use self cutting screws to fasten the wood to the deck. 1/2 inch and 1 1/4 screws . the retainer clips will prevent you from getting the wood flat to the deck so you will need to make holes for them.. No need to over tighten the screws you will deform the deck.

As for the 12 BA system.. yes it is fine for mom.. but no where near what it should be for the cash we payed for it. I have had my 12 for 3 months and at this very moment it is in pieces while I give it a real sound system.

And to the guy that talked about the dash being a pain in the ass. I will be using the factory head unit (radio) for starters. after I am done with the amp and speakers. if the head unit has any distortion.. I will rip that out too..



There is no substitute for quality sound..
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