Header install problem, need help - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

2ndgenz28 · 02-01-2010, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g-townmach

You sir are very wrong. A smart dealer will say "well the threads wouldn't have stripped if you didn't alter from factory form."
.

No thats a dumb dealers, to let a $20 part by his cost, piss off someone who spent $40,000 who might not come back and tell his freind not to also all cause the dealer was to cheap to cough up a $20 part at dealer cost is FRICKIN STUPID

Would be like if you wanted to installed drag radials, but ever lug nut stripped off while being removed, your gonna blame it on the drag radials???

He should be able to remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust just for kicks any time he wants and it should not strip, if GM installed it right with antisieze.

g-townmach · 02-01-2010, 02:48 PM

I see your point and I'm not saying it's the right thing to do on the dealer's part, but that's just the way it is. Unless this guy's dealership has a really nice service manager, I don't see him getting a new O2 sensor for free. The only way I see him getting one is installing the factory manifolds back and saying that when he took it to get inspected or something the shop said he had a bad sensor and when they tried to replace it they stripped it. I would not mention the words longtube headers.

Fritostud · 02-01-2010, 03:18 PM

Stripped mine too, but got both new ones for $65 each at the dealer!!

Robert91RS · 02-01-2010, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fritostud

Stripped mine too, but got both new ones for $65 each at the dealer!!

Were they the sensors after the cats? Those list at 65 and the two before the cats list for 135.

GMRULZ · 02-01-2010, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1977and2010

So I got my ARH headers installed, very nice product by the way. When I was taking the O2 sensors out one of them stripped badly only one thread left. Yes I soaked them in PB Blaster over night didn't help. The only place I can find a replacement is from Chevrolet at $130 and will have to be overnight shipped at another $20. I'm willing to pay and did for quality but another $150 puts these things dam close to grand, WTF. I guess i'll stop whining now.

Had the same problem w/ my driver front. I took it to the dealer w/ the o2 and the original pipe and said what gives? Why did ya`ll cross thread this at the factory and I want it covered under warranty. They ordered me a new one under warranty and I put it in myself. I told him what i was doing and I showed him the buggered threads in the original pipe and the sensor. I said Once it came out it was not going back in that pipe so why would i stick it back in the original just to cross thread it.

1977and2010 · 02-01-2010, 08:59 PM

Dude really I never once said it was the headers. I said it was the sensor from the beginning. Picked it up this am and the parts jackhole tried to charge me 175 when i bitched that he told me it was 130 he honored that. When i mentioned that it should be something covered under warranty he laughed and said that it stripped when I was removing it to modify the car it didn't strip itself. trying to attach a pic, see if it works. and i did soak them in PB Plaster over night before trying to remove them

1977and2010 · 02-01-2010, 09:01 PM

mine was the driver precat also and the parts guy i dealt with was was on his period.

g-townmach · 02-01-2010, 09:26 PM

The reason these sensors sieze up bad is because they go from cold, to REALLY hot, then back to cold again... and so on.

When you put your new ones on, put a tiny bit of antisieze mixed with oil (way oil is what I use, MOBIL Vactra 2.. but engine oil or even somtheing thicker like sulfar based will work). If you mix your antisieze with oil before you apply it will help it disperse itself in the thread form. Little machine shop trick. Remember though, you can get bolts alot tighter when they have antisieze on them so don't go wrenching on it like crazy when you reinstall.

jsharp · 02-14-2010, 08:38 PM

anyone tried to take them out when they are hot? Kinda dumb but wondering if it would help any?

B.Buster · 02-15-2010, 08:46 AM

What's happening here is called thread galling. This is prone to stainless. The theads on the senser fuse to the bung threads as you turn it out ripping out the threads. Typical sign this is happening is that the senser seems to be coming out then binds up. Here is how to get them out. Spray Kano Aerokroil brand penetrating oil and let set. Try loosening senser.Once you get it to turn spray more into to threads . Work senser in and out while spraying (this get oil to the dry threads). They come right out. Use anti-sieze (not a whole lot) on re-assembly. Hope this helps.

third1 · 02-15-2010, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Buster

What's happening here is called thread galling. This is prone to stainless. The theads on the senser fuse to the bung threads as you turn it out ripping out the threads. Typical sign this is happening is that the senser seems to be coming out then binds up. Here is how to get them out. Spray Kano Aerokroil brand penetrating oil and let set. Try loosening senser.Once you get it to turn spray more into to threads . Work senser in and out while spraying (this get oil to the dry threads). They come right out. Use anti-sieze (not a whole lot) on re-assembly. Hope this helps.

That is the proper way way to remove them.Back out a bit then in,out a bit more then in spraying pen oil as you run them back in. It is just like using a tap or die to cut threads. This may take some time but it should save your o2s.

urr2slo · 02-15-2010, 01:02 PM

i guess i was lucky, my came out with no problems. i just worked them slowly and used lots of penetrating oil.
if you have the pn#'s just check the price at gmpartsdirect and tell the dealer your using that you can buy them for that amount and see if they match the price.
my dealer always matches the best price i find. most parts counterman get paid on commission so a small profit is better than no profit.

02-01-2010, 02:48 PM	#30
g-townmach I FARTED Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: cen-tex Posts: 870	I see your point and I'm not saying it's the right thing to do on the dealer's part, but that's just the way it is. Unless this guy's dealership has a really nice service manager, I don't see him getting a new O2 sensor for free. The only way I see him getting one is installing the factory manifolds back and saying that when he took it to get inspected or something the shop said he had a bad sensor and when they tried to replace it they stripped it. I would not mention the words longtube headers. __________________ Last edited by g-townmach; 02-01-2010 at 05:02 PM.

02-01-2010, 08:59 PM	#34
1977and2010 Tampa Gulf Coast Family Drives: 1977 Z28, 2SSRS 2010 M6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Dunedin FL Posts: 810	Dude really I never once said it was the headers. I said it was the sensor from the beginning. Picked it up this am and the parts jackhole tried to charge me 175 when i bitched that he told me it was 130 he honored that. When i mentioned that it should be something covered under warranty he laughed and said that it stripped when I was removing it to modify the car it didn't strip itself. trying to attach a pic, see if it works. and i did soak them in PB Plaster over night before trying to remove them Attached Images

02-01-2010, 09:26 PM	#36
g-townmach I FARTED Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: cen-tex Posts: 870	The reason these sensors sieze up bad is because they go from cold, to REALLY hot, then back to cold again... and so on. When you put your new ones on, put a tiny bit of antisieze mixed with oil (way oil is what I use, MOBIL Vactra 2.. but engine oil or even somtheing thicker like sulfar based will work). If you mix your antisieze with oil before you apply it will help it disperse itself in the thread form. Little machine shop trick. Remember though, you can get bolts alot tighter when they have antisieze on them so don't go wrenching on it like crazy when you reinstall. __________________

02-14-2010, 08:38 PM	#37
jsharp NOW CAMMED & SUPERCHARGED Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black w/ IOM Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Ar Posts: 2,336	anyone tried to take them out when they are hot? Kinda dumb but wondering if it would help any? __________________ Livernois Motorsports: Maggie 2300 7psi, Livernois 2C cam/L99 to LS3 Conversion, Ported TB, Rotofab w/adm race scoop, adm trans cooler,Kooks headers no cats, Kooks 3" exhaust. METCO breather. Precision 2400 Vigilante TC. Eibach Lowering Springs & Swaybars. BMR Trailing arms, BMR Rear Cradle Bushings, BMR Toe Rods, BMR Differential bushings. Vossen CV3 20's w/ 305 Mickey Thompson @25psi. Zl1 front bumper. OE Zl1 Hood and matte black insert. 556RWHP/500RWTQ L99

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02-01-2010, 03:18 PM	#31
Fritostud Drives: 2008 Suzuki Hayabusa2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: West by God Virginia Posts: 120	Stripped mine too, but got both new ones for $65 each at the dealer!!

02-01-2010, 09:01 PM	#35
1977and2010 Tampa Gulf Coast Family Drives: 1977 Z28, 2SSRS 2010 M6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Dunedin FL Posts: 810	mine was the driver precat also and the parts guy i dealt with was was on his period.

02-15-2010, 08:46 AM	#38
B.Buster Drives: 2010 AquaBlue 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Long Island Posts: 342	What's happening here is called thread galling. This is prone to stainless. The theads on the senser fuse to the bung threads as you turn it out ripping out the threads. Typical sign this is happening is that the senser seems to be coming out then binds up. Here is how to get them out. Spray Kano Aerokroil brand penetrating oil and let set. Try loosening senser.Once you get it to turn spray more into to threads . Work senser in and out while spraying (this get oil to the dry threads). They come right out. Use anti-sieze (not a whole lot) on re-assembly. Hope this helps.

02-15-2010, 01:02 PM	#40
urr2slo Drives: 2010 2ss ss/rs abm, 2016 2ss/rs hbm Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: N. Phx, Az Posts: 1,332	i guess i was lucky, my came out with no problems. i just worked them slowly and used lots of penetrating oil. if you have the pn#'s just check the price at gmpartsdirect and tell the dealer your using that you can buy them for that amount and see if they match the price. my dealer always matches the best price i find. most parts counterman get paid on commission so a small profit is better than no profit.