My SuperFlow dyno numbers today

[topgun1]

yeah, 270 for a 4 cylinder would be impressive (at least on the Camaro).

Janowich-those guys (both the dyno operator and dealer) do not know what they are doing. Please take it somewhere else before you get it tuned for your benefit and all of us on the forum. The ignorance of these guys is killing me. Anyone that knows anything about these cars will know that 270 rwhp on an L99 is NOT NORMAL!! You don't want to blow your warranty by tuning it if you may have an underlying problem that is covered under warranty.

GM needs to have a specialist come out and diagnose your car and needs to resolve your issue.

[MJanowich]

PQ, the last 7 digits of my VIN are: 9185406

Originally Posted by PQ

"It isn't. When my car was in low mode, before I did the fuse pull, it still dynoed at 315 and 317. It was on a Dynojet. Have you timed your car?"

The first dyno shop I went to did check the timing after I told him about the possible low octane timing issue. I think he said it was around 9 degrees. That doesn't mean anything to me, but he said it seemed low but could have been because the car was running hot from all the pulls he just did.

Originally Posted by PQ

"It was timing my car that made me realize the 'Slow L99' problem last year. NOT the dyno, OR the way it felt.

Time it, and see what you get. I suspect you are on some bad machines.

The dealer read mine as 'Within Specs' also. They would have to LOOK at the fuel table to know. And I don't think they even can. "

PQ, if you can please give me all the details of your problem. Which dealer did you go to? Did you ask them to read your timing? How did they realize there was a problem? Who was it that finally admitted there was an issue with your car? If they can't look at the fuel table, how was your issue diagnosed?

I'll need as many details as possible and any GM or dealer contacts familiar with the issue before I go to someone else. The last dealer treated it like any other family sedan, there were no codes, no noises and all the software was up to date, so not their problem even though I had dyno proof.

My plan is to go back to the dealer I bought the car from, tell them the car isn't making power and ask them to check the timing and if possible, the Air/fuel ratio. If they can't find anything out of the ordinary, I'm going to ask them to reflash the ECU just in case.

[Andro]

[PQ]

Originally Posted by MJanowich

PQ, the last 7 digits of my VIN are: 9185406

That Vin# is well beyond the cut off for the assembly line fix. You should not have a low octane table problem unless you CURRENTLY are running low in it.



The first dyno shop I went to did check the timing after I told him about the possible low octane timing issue. I think he said it was around 9 degrees. That doesn't mean anything to me, but he said it seemed low but could have been because the car was running hot from all the pulls he just did.

Hmmmmm............. Not sure about that. Unless he's familiar with an L99, which I doubt. Unless he's just familiar with an LS3 and all of the properties are the same. But I don't know if those are. It would make sense, but I've heard contrary.



PQ, if you can please give me all the details of your problem.

Which dealer did you go to? Bay Chevrolet here in Mobile AL

Did you ask them to read your timing? No. I had no reason to at the time. I'll explain.

How did they realize there was a problem? They didn't. Like you, they kept telling me it was fine. Even sent the data to GM in my TAC case and GM said it was fine.

Who was it that finally admitted there was an issue with your car? NOBODY, till I 'fixed' it. I'll explain below.

If they can't look at the fuel table, how was your issue diagnosed? MY issue was diagnosed later after I had discovered the fuse pull. A number of us were timing our cars and realized that we were slow. Few of us pushed the issue, most others just figured they needed to drive it better or gave it excuses like heat, humidity, or break-in. GM sent a team down with a car to look at Scott Shermans car. Me and him and one or two other guys, dont' remember them now, were pitching a major fit. They fixed Scotts car while they were here. No more news was heard and I was at the end of my rope, so Scott saw a video on the site of a tuner doing someones car. He noticed that the tuner pulled the 5 and 20 fuses so he would have all default factory settings. So Scott called me one Sunday morning and talked me into it. It fixed the problem. And so the Fuse Pull came about. It blew up and many of the guys who denied that there was a problem even benefited and a few days later my dealer called me to say they had a fix. Essentialy it's what they were gonns do anyway.

I'll need as many details as possible and any GM or dealer contacts familiar with the issue before I go to someone else. The last dealer treated it like any other family sedan, there were no codes, no noises and all the software was up to date, so not their problem even though I had dyno proof.

I had mine at the dealer 5 or 6 times. They were treating me like an idiot. They drove it and everything. Eventialy, one of them told me that if I wanted a Corvette, I should have bought one. But their hands were tied. They didn't have any way to tell.

My plan is to go back to the dealer I bought the car from, tell them the car isn't making power and ask them to check the timing and if possible, the Air/fuel ratio. If they can't find anything out of the ordinary, I'm going to ask them to reflash the ECU just in case.

I've been where you are now. Wether it's a fuel tabel, spark timing issue, I don't know, but I DO know it's frustrating. I say you time it. If you get good times then you know the dynos are full of $hit. It's the BEST test for you right now, on your own.

Responded in blue.

I know it sucks. But I'm telling you. TIME YOUR CAR...........You may run out and get a 5 - 5.3 second run and I know it's fine. Or even better. (Kinda hot though) I was getting 6.2s and up. A full second slow. I probably did 250 runs and averaged 6.2 with a BEST of 5.9 and my first run after I pulled my fuses was 5.1 ish, can't remember, but from there on out, it was an average of .8 secs quicker. Nothing else changed. (I was roasting my tires more. )

If the Horse Power and Torque you are being told are accurate, you shouldn't be able to hit 0-60 mph much under 6.5 to 7 seconds.

T..I..M..E....Y..O..U..R.......C..A..R..!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!! It just may save you a lot of greif, AND give you instant peice of mind.

Until you time your car, I don't know how else to help you from here.

BUT, I DO want to help you. Again, I know how bad it sucks to feel this way. Mine was legit........ But the only way I knew for certain was to..........?






*wait for it*









Yup, ...TIME MY CAR!!!

[The_Blur]

Originally Posted by PQ

Responded in blue.

I know it sucks. But I'm telling you. TIME YOUR CAR...........You may run out and get a 5 - 5.3 second run and I know it's fine. Or even better. (Kinda hot though) I was getting 6.2s and up. A full second slow. I probably did 250 runs and averaged 6.2 with a BEST of 5.9 and my first run after I pulled my fuses was 5.1 ish, can't remember, but from there on out, it was an average of .8 secs quicker. Nothing else changed. (I was roasting my tires more. )

If the Horse Power and Torque you are being told are accurate, you shouldn't be able to hit 0-60 mph much under 6.5 to 7 seconds.

T..I..M..E....Y..O..U..R.......C..A..R..!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!! It just may save you a lot of greif, AND give you instant peice of mind.

Until you time your car, I don't know how else to help you from here.

BUT, I DO want to help you. Again, I know how bad it sucks to feel this way. Mine was legit........ But the only way I knew for certain was to..........?






*wait for it*









Yup, ...TIME MY CAR!!!

Time your car. PQ is right. This could be a problem that affects a lot of guys.

[MJanowich]

Originally Posted by PQ

I know it sucks. But I'm telling you. TIME YOUR CAR...........You may run out and get a 5 - 5.3 second run and I know it's fine.

LOL! When you first mentioned timing, I thought you were talking about engine timing, not 0-60 mph. D'oh!

Yes, I'll do some runs. I have a Passport G Timer that I bought a few years ago and I'll buy Dynolicious for the iPod as a backup measurement.

I filled my tank today from a different gas station too, just in case.

After I find a nice quiet spot to do some 0-60 runs, I'll do the fuse pull again, do another set of timed runs and compare.

Thanks again for all your help with this!

Michael

[PQ]

Originally Posted by MJanowich

LOL! When you first mentioned timing, I thought you were talking about engine timing, not 0-60 mph. D'oh!

Yes, I'll do some runs. I have a Passport G Timer that I bought a few years ago and I'll buy Dynolicious for the iPod as a backup measurement.

I filled my tank today from a different gas station too, just in case.

After I find a nice quiet spot to do some 0-60 runs, I'll do the fuse pull again, do another set of timed runs and compare.

Thanks again for all your help with this!

Michael

Actually, it is the spark timing that would be slowed if your car was on the low table. But even then, NOT 269 or even 281 hp low.

But, ya. I used the dynolicous app too. But when I timed the rins in the very begining, I video taped the instrument panel and cut the vid on both ends. Most accurate way to do it imo., without proper equipment.

Be safe, and let us know how it goes. I'm totaly curious.

[2010SLVRBULIT]

even 270 on a v6 would be impressive, that's what I thought you had initially...

[PQ]

You know, with so many different Dyno numbers, I'm totaly unimpressed with anyones numbers anymore. It's like every one of them is different.

[MJanowich]

Originally Posted by PQ

You know, with so many different Dyno numbers, I'm totaly unimpressed with anyones numbers anymore. It's like every one of them is different.

OK, PQ, I did as you asked. I timed my Camaro's 0-60 mph.

First, I love the idea of using a video camera to record the time. That's what I did. I used my little Canon Powershot. I also used my Passport G Timer.

Here are the results. Methodology will be at the end of the post so no one goes all blurry eyed on me.

Air temp was ~ 77 degrees F. at 2:45 pm EDT. All 3 were done in Sport mode without tap shift.

First run:
G Timer time: 5.13 seconds
Video time: 5.03 seconds

Second run:
G Timer time: 4.73 seconds
Video time: n/a I messed up hitting the record button too many times :(

Third run:
G Timer time: 4.7 seconds
Video time: 5.06 seconds

I'm feeling a bit sheepish now. If I had done this to begin with, I wouldn't have wasted time at the dealer. The ONE thing I've done to the car since the original dynos was to fill it up with 93 octane at an Exxon station, where as I have always used the same Shell station in the past.

To me, 5 seconds 0-60 is just fine for a L99. Either there was never an issue with power and the dynos I went to were reading low, or the Exxon gas flipped the computer to high octane timing. Only a final dyno will really tell I guess.

Thank you PQ for forcing me to time 0-60 acceleration! Case closed for now.

* Video timing methodology:
Quicktime and Windows Media Player don't display run time in tenths of a second, so I switched to Frame view in Quicktime. I verified that the video was running at 32 fps. So, 1 frame = .03125 seconds. I paused the video right at the mark where my speedometer jumped from 0 to 1 or 2 mph and marked that frame and did the same when I got to 60. I then subtracted the last frame number from the first and multiplied that number by .03125 and presto, I got my 0-60 time.

I'm kind of unimpressed with the g timer. I was off by a good .3 seconds on the first run. I'd have to do a lot more to see what the average margin of error is. I'm curious to see what results I'd get from Dynolicious.

[PQ]

I suspected as much. I can say without reservation, you don't have any problems. At least not currently.

It's possible you did jump timing since the dynos if you were on the low table, but like I said, if you were realy as low of power as those dynos said, you woulnd't have broken barely 7 seconds.

Congrats. Hope it makes you feel better.

You gonna dyno again?

[jtzako]

I've not dyno'd or found a safe place to try 0-60 runs yet, but based on the fact that I can NOT break the tires loose even with all the nannies turned off I suspect mine isnt quite doing what it should.. (my 78 malibu with max 325hp at the crank rips them loose in 1st or 2nd so this SS should easily do it)

I have tried fuse pull for 12+ hours but that didnt seem to help. The only gas I can get without spending 20+ cents a gallon more is Racetrac or 7-11 unfortunately.

[MJanowich]

Originally Posted by PQ

I suspected as much. I can say without reservation, you don't have any problems. At least not currently.

It's possible you did jump timing since the dynos if you were on the low table, but like I said, if you were realy as low of power as those dynos said, you woulnd't have broken barely 7 seconds.

Congrats. Hope it makes you feel better.

You gonna dyno again?

I absolutely do feel better. If I can talk my wife into it, I'll go back to the dyno. I'm planning on getting the Borla Atak axle back for my birthday so maybe I'll throw in a dyno run before they install it. I'll be sure to do a test 0-60 run right before hand though, just in case.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by jtzako

I've not dyno'd or found a safe place to try 0-60 runs yet, but based on the fact that I can NOT break the tires loose even with all the nannies turned off I suspect mine isnt quite doing what it should.. (my 78 malibu with max 325hp at the crank rips them loose in 1st or 2nd so this SS should easily do it)

I have tried fuse pull for 12+ hours but that didnt seem to help. The only gas I can get without spending 20+ cents a gallon more is Racetrac or 7-11 unfortunately.

It is kinda weird. There are times when I can't either. And then at the next light, I can light em' up. Strange.

Originally Posted by MJanowich

I absolutely do feel better. If I can talk my wife into it, I'll go back to the dyno. I'm planning on getting the Borla Atak axle back for my birthday so maybe I'll throw in a dyno run before they install it. I'll be sure to do a test 0-60 run right before hand though, just in case.

Good idea.

I've just always thought it was the best way to measure performance. By actually testing it on the road. There's a novel idea.






You can lay down 500 HP on a dyno and sound mean as hell, but if I can beat you with 100 less HP on the road, THAT's what matters to me. haha