burning smell. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Kerr · 10-05-2011, 09:36 AM

IM a retard. should have just put this in the other topic as one big topic...

I have the GM performace exhaust... If any other of you have it did it smell like burning metal? we get a new GM car every year and ive never owned on that smells like melting metal, etc...

Today i drove to work, only 5 miles.. temp gauge and everything normal, but you just get this smell... think of it as the smell you get when you weld up exhaust tubing.. It doesnt smoke, just the od on fire metal smell... Maybe im just use to the SUV side of GM... at any rate they rate a new suv or truck, or impapa for that matter doesnt smell like its melting..

I looked at the bumper, thought maybe it was touching.. its not... plastic isnt even warm... so im guessing its just the GM performace exhaust making that smell.. or maybe thats just they way camaros are until something is burned off...

Rizzo · 10-05-2011, 09:40 AM

Hum...I have the GMPP Catback and didn't notice that. I have had it for two years now with no issues. Weird.

Chevrolet Customer Svc · 10-05-2011, 12:41 PM

Kerr, you may want to have your vehicle checked. It isn't terribly common but I have seen where something will get caught on the exhaust and cause smell issues. Hopefully it's not that serious and you can roll right back out of the dealer. Let us know if you do decide to take the vehicle in. Thank you!

Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service

ffrcobra_65 · 10-05-2011, 04:03 PM

is your car new? if so, you are simply smelling the burning plastic labels/part tags on the exhaust pipes. Or maybe your exhaust is new and the labels/tags are burning off. Either way, it will go away in a few hundred miles or sooner.

Kerr · 10-06-2011, 01:04 PM

yea its brand new 70 miles.. The 2011 denali had smell for a little while but not near like this one has.

elpatofeo · 10-06-2011, 01:27 PM

had that happen to me the other day...my friend was driving the car and when she came to pick me up I smelled burned plastic, sure enough I looked under the car and there was a plastic bag stuck on the exhaust. I took it off but it still smells, might take a while for the smell to go away.

Silverwolf · 10-08-2011, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elpatofeo

had that happen to me the other day...my friend was driving the car and when she came to pick me up I smelled burned plastic, sure enough I looked under the car and there was a plastic bag stuck on the exhaust. I took it off but it still smells, might take a while for the smell to go away.

Yep ..my baby had a crappy diaper too...lol ...it had that burnt plastic smell ...and sure enough a big ole contractors bag had gotten up in my exhaust ...pulled it off and the smell is still faint after two weeks...

But who cares if it has a little burnt smell... It's a free kin b e a utiful car... And I am proud of my smelly ride! :@)

landshark-ss · 10-14-2011, 06:07 AM

had a TechConnect Online News Blog

Heater Core Failures and Electrolysis

By Blog Admin on November 7, 2008 4:07 PM | No Comments

Most heater core failures are caused by high flow rate or poor quality coolant. But there's another culprit for repeat heater core failures: excess voltage in the coolant, which leads to electrolysis.

When stray electrical current runs through the cooling system, it can cause metal to be removed (pitting, scarring) from the heater core and result in leaking within the core. Electrolysis may be caused by a lost ground or if the coolant has become corrosive.

To combat the damage caused by electrolysis, ACDelco heater cores use a one-step brazing process to strengthen the joints for high corrosion and erosion resistance and durability.

If the heater core is leaking, examine the location of the leak. If the leak is on the inlet or outlet tubes, it is most likely due to high flow rate. Review the appropriate Service Information, which may call for the installation of a restrictor on the inlet hose, facing the direction of the coolant flow (toward the heater core) and close to the engine block.

If any leaks are found in the heater core itself and there are no signs of physical damage, the coolant inhibitors may be depleted and require a check for electrolysis. (Fig. 7)

Voltage Reading

Generally, electrolysis is possible with a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter) reading of 0.3 or higher.

To determine if electrolysis is present, with the engine running, take a voltage reading with the voltmeter negative lead grounded to the battery and the positive lead suspended in coolant, making sure it does not contact any metal part of the cooling system.

Both AC and DC voltages should be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages, but a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages.

Although coolant is lost due to heater core failure, try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.

Flush the Coolant

If the voltage in the cooling system is greater than 0.3 volts, indicating electrolysis, perform a cooling system flush using a coolant exchanger, which can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant.

If the cooling system is restricted from scale, rust or other debris (Fig. 8), only an exchanger with a back-flush procedure will be effective. A vacuum-fill exchanger also will purge any trapped air in the cooling system.

Check the Grounds

The most likely possibility for electrolysis is a poor ground somewhere in the vehicle electrical system, such as a cooling fan mounted to the radiator.

Check the grounds on the battery, engine/transmission and body sequentially with the voltmeter negative lead.

Also check various accessories by watching the voltmeter while turning each accessory on and off and also by engaging the starter motor, but not starting the engine.

Next, perform the same checks with the engine running at a fast idle, about 2000 rpm.

Remember, you must check all three grounds (battery, engine/transmission and body) with each accessory and keep the positive voltmeter probe suspended in the coolant. The voltmeter reading is unlikely to drop to zero, but should clearly drop below 0.3 volt. The accessory with the drop has a bad ground.

One other item to keep in mind is that if the vehicle is equipped with an electric cooling fan it should be cycled during the testing and voltage monitored with it on and off.

Don't Ground It

The final word, plain and simple, is do not ground the heater core. If the heater core is grounded, a path is provided for electrolysis to pass through the heater core, which would allow any stray voltage to use the coolant as the ground path.

- Thanks to Dennis Kissack

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About this Entry

This page contains a single entry by Blog Admin published on November 7, 2008 4:07 PM.
Tire Pressure Monitor Sensor Service Tips was the previous entry in this blog.
2009 MACS Convention is the next entry in this blog.
Find recent content on the main index or look in the archives to find all content.

burning smell too..2010 ss.. the other morning listening to smoke on the water really loud.. turned the heater on and the car filled up with pink steam..fluid out the vents.. Heater coil!! yep, they have to pull the windshield to replace.. my main worry is why it went out. 35k on the car...this might be your burning smell. i thought my daughter was smoking in the car.. but this might be the problem. see below

PitchBlack · 10-14-2011, 10:25 AM

I had the same issue on my 2012 Camaro that I have had for less than 2 weeks. I drove it off of the lot for a test drive when it only had 6 miles on odometer. It took about 100 miles of driving before it went away.

CammieChix · 11-19-2011, 08:46 AM

I had the same issue when my car was brand new. Those first few weeks my garage would smell like I was making a 1000 pieces of toast every night. Super strange odd burning odor that would take an hour or so to dissipate. I called the dealer about it over and over and got the "that's what new cars do." And so I accepted that and eventually it went away but it took a long time.

Let me just say I've been driving brand spanking new cars for decades and it never smelled like we were frying barbie dolls under the hood. Sad.

10-05-2011, 09:36 AM	#1
Kerr Drives: 67 vette Join Date: May 2011 Location: va Posts: 69	burning smell. IM a retard. should have just put this in the other topic as one big topic... I have the GM performace exhaust... If any other of you have it did it smell like burning metal? we get a new GM car every year and ive never owned on that smells like melting metal, etc... Today i drove to work, only 5 miles.. temp gauge and everything normal, but you just get this smell... think of it as the smell you get when you weld up exhaust tubing.. It doesnt smoke, just the od on fire metal smell... Maybe im just use to the SUV side of GM... at any rate they rate a new suv or truck, or impapa for that matter doesnt smell like its melting.. I looked at the bumper, thought maybe it was touching.. its not... plastic isnt even warm... so im guessing its just the GM performace exhaust making that smell.. or maybe thats just they way camaros are until something is burned off...

10-05-2011, 09:40 AM	#2
Rizzo Drives: 2012 Camaro ZL-1 SIM Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 454 View My Garage	Hum...I have the GMPP Catback and didn't notice that. I have had it for two years now with no issues. Weird. __________________ =================================================

10-06-2011, 01:27 PM	#6
elpatofeo LawBraker Drives: 10 SIM 2LT/RS & 2016 1SS Hyper Blue Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fresno, CA. Posts: 910 View My Garage	had that happen to me the other day...my friend was driving the car and when she came to pick me up I smelled burned plastic, sure enough I looked under the car and there was a plastic bag stuck on the exhaust. I took it off but it still smells, might take a while for the smell to go away. __________________

10-14-2011, 06:07 AM	#8
landshark-ss Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Houston TX Posts: 4	had a TechConnect Online News Blog Heater Core Failures and Electrolysis By Blog Admin on November 7, 2008 4:07 PM \| No Comments Most heater core failures are caused by high flow rate or poor quality coolant. But there's another culprit for repeat heater core failures: excess voltage in the coolant, which leads to electrolysis. When stray electrical current runs through the cooling system, it can cause metal to be removed (pitting, scarring) from the heater core and result in leaking within the core. Electrolysis may be caused by a lost ground or if the coolant has become corrosive. To combat the damage caused by electrolysis, ACDelco heater cores use a one-step brazing process to strengthen the joints for high corrosion and erosion resistance and durability. If the heater core is leaking, examine the location of the leak. If the leak is on the inlet or outlet tubes, it is most likely due to high flow rate. Review the appropriate Service Information, which may call for the installation of a restrictor on the inlet hose, facing the direction of the coolant flow (toward the heater core) and close to the engine block. If any leaks are found in the heater core itself and there are no signs of physical damage, the coolant inhibitors may be depleted and require a check for electrolysis. (Fig. 7) Voltage Reading Generally, electrolysis is possible with a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter) reading of 0.3 or higher. To determine if electrolysis is present, with the engine running, take a voltage reading with the voltmeter negative lead grounded to the battery and the positive lead suspended in coolant, making sure it does not contact any metal part of the cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages should be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages, but a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. Although coolant is lost due to heater core failure, try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible. Flush the Coolant If the voltage in the cooling system is greater than 0.3 volts, indicating electrolysis, perform a cooling system flush using a coolant exchanger, which can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. If the cooling system is restricted from scale, rust or other debris (Fig. 8), only an exchanger with a back-flush procedure will be effective. A vacuum-fill exchanger also will purge any trapped air in the cooling system. Check the Grounds The most likely possibility for electrolysis is a poor ground somewhere in the vehicle electrical system, such as a cooling fan mounted to the radiator. Check the grounds on the battery, engine/transmission and body sequentially with the voltmeter negative lead. Also check various accessories by watching the voltmeter while turning each accessory on and off and also by engaging the starter motor, but not starting the engine. Next, perform the same checks with the engine running at a fast idle, about 2000 rpm. Remember, you must check all three grounds (battery, engine/transmission and body) with each accessory and keep the positive voltmeter probe suspended in the coolant. The voltmeter reading is unlikely to drop to zero, but should clearly drop below 0.3 volt. The accessory with the drop has a bad ground. One other item to keep in mind is that if the vehicle is equipped with an electric cooling fan it should be cycled during the testing and voltage monitored with it on and off. Don't Ground It The final word, plain and simple, is do not ground the heater core. If the heater core is grounded, a path is provided for electrolysis to pass through the heater core, which would allow any stray voltage to use the coolant as the ground path. - Thanks to Dennis Kissack Categories: English Leave a comment Sign in to comment. Name Email Address URL Remember personal info? Comments Monthly Archives January 2011 (8) November 2010 (11) September 2010 (10) July 2010 (11) May 2010 (10) March 2010 (9) January 2010 (12) November 2009 (12) September 2009 (13) July 2009 (11) May 2009 (12) March 2009 (9) January 2009 (10) November 2008 (12) September 2008 (11) Languages English French Spanish Resources Contact Us Diagnostic Assistance PDF newsletter archive Previous Website Archive Technical Assistance Troubleshooting PDF Job Aids What is 360? Subscribe to this blog's feed Search About this Entry This page contains a single entry by Blog Admin published on November 7, 2008 4:07 PM. Tire Pressure Monitor Sensor Service Tips was the previous entry in this blog. 2009 MACS Convention is the next entry in this blog. Find recent content on the main index or look in the archives to find all content. burning smell too..2010 ss.. the other morning listening to smoke on the water really loud.. turned the heater on and the car filled up with pink steam..fluid out the vents.. Heater coil!! yep, they have to pull the windshield to replace.. my main worry is why it went out. 35k on the car...this might be your burning smell. i thought my daughter was smoking in the car.. but this might be the problem. see below

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10-05-2011, 12:41 PM	#3
Chevrolet Customer Svc Drives: GM Vehicles Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 9,328	Kerr, you may want to have your vehicle checked. It isn't terribly common but I have seen where something will get caught on the exhaust and cause smell issues. Hopefully it's not that serious and you can roll right back out of the dealer. Let us know if you do decide to take the vehicle in. Thank you! Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service

10-05-2011, 04:03 PM	#4
ffrcobra_65 Account Suspended Drives: SuperCharged 2SS/RS IOM MN6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: CA Posts: 5,094	is your car new? if so, you are simply smelling the burning plastic labels/part tags on the exhaust pipes. Or maybe your exhaust is new and the labels/tags are burning off. Either way, it will go away in a few hundred miles or sooner.

10-06-2011, 01:04 PM	#5
Kerr Drives: 67 vette Join Date: May 2011 Location: va Posts: 69	yea its brand new 70 miles.. The 2011 denali had smell for a little while but not near like this one has.

10-14-2011, 10:25 AM	#9
PitchBlack (with a little chrome) Drives: The Black Knight Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tri-Cities, Tennessee Posts: 283 View My Garage	I had the same issue on my 2012 Camaro that I have had for less than 2 weeks. I drove it off of the lot for a test drive when it only had 6 miles on odometer. It took about 100 miles of driving before it went away.

11-19-2011, 08:46 AM	#10
CammieChix Drives: 2011 1LT 6-SP MANUAL Join Date: May 2011 Location: ATLANTA Posts: 28	I had the same issue when my car was brand new. Those first few weeks my garage would smell like I was making a 1000 pieces of toast every night. Super strange odd burning odor that would take an hour or so to dissipate. I called the dealer about it over and over and got the "that's what new cars do." And so I accepted that and eventually it went away but it took a long time. Let me just say I've been driving brand spanking new cars for decades and it never smelled like we were frying barbie dolls under the hood. Sad.