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Old 02-02-2012, 01:28 PM   #15
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It never ends. Once you get through this process, you're going to hear someone with a Bit 1 or MS-8 and want that, then better speakers and amps.......

Its a never ending expensive "hobby".

If you are looking for total coverage of your trunk, 50' is not enough. Doing the trunk and doors (total coverage) will need about 130 sq'. I did total coverage on my trunk and used all but 1 sheet out of a 100 sq' pack.

The front door speaker mounts are not required if you can cut your factory speakers out of the plastic spacer and make your own mount. It is MUCH easier to use ********s pods. You will need them for the rear too.

Front wire harness is not required, but it helps keep distortion out of the sound. No chance of a bad solder joint that way.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:33 AM   #16
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TTT

Another question,

I plan on using some cooling fans (currently have 3) to keep air circulating through my amp rack once it's put together. However I keep seeing differences between having the fans "push" the air across the amps or "pull" the air in. Which works best in keeping the amps cool, since I'm going to be pumping approx 1500W?

Or would it possibly be best to have 2 fans push and 2 fans pull?
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:36 PM   #17
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Its like Christmas all over again!!!
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:42 PM   #18
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I guess now I'll be able to hear you coming before I can see you coming...
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:23 AM   #19
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I'm not doing a fan at all. Where is your amp rack?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue10CamaroSS View Post
TTT

Another question,

I plan on using some cooling fans (currently have 3) to keep air circulating through my amp rack once it's put together. However I keep seeing differences between having the fans "push" the air across the amps or "pull" the air in. Which works best in keeping the amps cool, since I'm going to be pumping approx 1500W?

Or would it possibly be best to have 2 fans push and 2 fans pull?
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:27 AM   #20
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Amp rack will be in the trunk behind the speaker box
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:58 PM   #21
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So are you guys running front and rear speakers from the amp to the radio harness instead of trying to route through the doors?
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:29 PM   #22
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The X2 harness from ******** allows you to use the already existing wires in the car for your deck and door speakers. I'll just cut off the stock connectors, add new ones for the aftermarket speakers and good to go
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:02 AM   #23
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I'm thinking this set up for my power wire should be fine but if someone can chime in, please do so:

Run a 2 gauge power wire to this distribution block:


Then using 4 gauge power wire with 200A fuse to my 1000W amp on one output and an 8 gauge power wire with 150A fuse to my 600W amp on the other (these fuse sizes are based on manufacturers specs)

Then for ground run a 4 gauge and 8 gauge ground wire from the amps to this block:


With a final 2 gauge ground wire to the battery (since battery is in the trunk)

I was using the info from this page as a guide: Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes & Speaker Wire Size and Length
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Old 03-04-2012, 01:33 AM   #24
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Your gauge looks good.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:35 AM   #25
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This will be very interesting.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #26
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Dont forget the Ground loop insulator.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:04 PM   #27
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Almost done







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Old 04-17-2012, 02:38 PM   #28
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Well.....

First, let me complement you on your excellent taste in equipment

How did you wire your subs? I'm guessing your birth sheet showed around 1200W at 4 ohm, and 1700+ at 2 ohm? Aren't you worried about overpowering those 12's? Pushing 1000+ watts into a sub with 600W RMS is......risky.
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