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Old 12-04-2011, 01:52 PM   #29
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can this happen in reverse i have been running high octane for a couple times then on a low tank i filled up with low octane after about an hour the light came on will the fuse pull work to reset the light
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:03 PM   #30
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I had my low octane table over written with the high octane table when I had it tuned and I love it.

It still will retard the timing when it senses spark knock and I never have to wonder if it has slipped down to the low octane tune.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:07 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Sam The Plumber View Post
has anyone done a fuse pull on a 2012. after i did it the check eng light came on. it was on for an hour than went off. is that normal?


You might have pulled the self destruct fuse by accident. Its a good thing you the put fuse back in before it exploded.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:47 PM   #32
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You might have pulled the self destruct fuse by accident. Its a good thing you the put fuse back in before it exploded.
ROFLMAO....BOOOOOOM!
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:53 AM   #33
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Here is a link to an actual picture of your fusebox. Note there is a fuse puller tool to the bottom right attached to the circuit board.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38964
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:15 PM   #34
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This is a nice placebo effect. All of you guys are pulling two fuses that loose power when the ignition is turned off anyway. Both of those fuses are ignition fuses to the ECM, pulling them has no more effect than turning the ignition off (like you do every time you shut the car off). The B+ fuse that keeps the memory alive to the ECM is located in the trunk behind the right side trunk trim panel.

Did no one look at a schematic before coming up with this? Or maybe the laws of electrical flow have changed since I got into the business!
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:18 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by NFERNOSS View Post
This is a nice placebo effect. All of you guys are pulling two fuses that loose power when the ignition is turned off anyway. Both of those fuses are ignition fuses to the ECM, pulling them has no more effect than turning the ignition off (like you do every time you shut the car off). The B+ fuse that keeps the memory alive to the ECM is located in the trunk behind the right side trunk trim panel.

Did no one look at a schematic before coming up with this? Or maybe the laws of electrical flow have changed since I got into the business!
I looked in my trunk on my 11 and the only thing in there was a amp. Maybe more crap in back there on the 12's but the 5&20 work
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:00 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by bajamoon View Post
I looked in my trunk on my 11 and the only thing in there was a amp. Maybe more crap in back there on the 12's but the 5&20 work
It's there on the right side (passenger side) behind faux carpet. Can't see how it works according to schematic!

Green (B+ fuse in trunk), Red (ign fuses in underhood fuse block).
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:07 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFERNOSS View Post
This is a nice placebo effect. All of you guys are pulling two fuses that loose power when the ignition is turned off anyway. Both of those fuses are ignition fuses to the ECM, pulling them has no more effect than turning the ignition off (like you do every time you shut the car off). The B+ fuse that keeps the memory alive to the ECM is located in the trunk behind the right side trunk trim panel.

Did no one look at a schematic before coming up with this? Or maybe the laws of electrical flow have changed since I got into the business!
If you read your owners manual you will see the fuses 5 and 20 are the only fuses specifically for the ECM.

But you're probably right. All those timed 0-60 runs, the TSB, Al O.'s statement on the issue - its all in our heads.

Edit: did you at least skim through the fuse pull Sticky before making this post?
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:12 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by SS_Matt View Post
Can anyone confirm if the fuse pull process is the same on 2012 (LS3) as 2010-2011 LS3??
Yes it is the same. Fuses #5 and #20
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:11 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by stieger View Post
If you read your owners manual you will see the fuses 5 and 20 are the only fuses specifically for the ECM.

But you're probably right. All those timed 0-60 runs, the TSB, Al O.'s statement on the issue - its all in our heads.

Edit: did you at least skim through the fuse pull Sticky before making this post?
I guess GM's schematic is wrong then. What is I to do, they been lying to me all these years with their documentation. All those repaired cars, they ain't been really repaired, it's all been in my head.
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:25 AM   #40
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I guess GM's schematic is wrong then. What is I to do, they been lying to me all these years with their documentation. All those repaired cars, they ain't been really repaired, it's all been in my head.
I'm not an electrical engineer, so I couldn't tell you if the schematic is wrong or not. I just know that the fuse pull works.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:01 AM   #41
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You also referred to the TSB, which was for the 10's only, which did have a known issue with this. The F13R fuse they speak of is in fact the B+ fuse in the trunk, not the #5 fuse everyone is pulling along with the 20. This whole issue was rectified on the 11-12 MY's. The green arrow in my schematic points to the correct fuse.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:13 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by NFERNOSS View Post
You also referred to the TSB, which was for the 10's only, which did have a known issue with this. The F13R fuse they speak of is in fact the B+ fuse in the trunk, not the #5 fuse everyone is pulling along with the 20. This whole issue was rectified on the 11-12 MY's. The green arrow in my schematic points to the correct fuse.
You are correct. The TSB only refers, specifically, to the 2010 MY. That is probably because the TSB came out in 2009.
UPDATE: While not officially confirmed, '10 and '11 models do not have modified calibrations to correct this issue. It does NOT appear there is a reflash to correct this. Reliable source(s) say that either a TECH II reflash or this procedure are the only ways to correct this issue. It's unknown if this will change in the future, however, if low octane is detected, the only way for the PCM to get back into the high octane table is outlined a sentence ago.

#PIP4728: Higher Than Expected 0-60 MPH (97 KPH) Acceleration Time- (Nov 4, 2009)

So while not officially confirmed by GM, the 2011 MY does not have any changes/differences in fuel tables from the 2010 MY. As GM does not "officially" state that this is an issue, I would be willing to bet a paycheck that the 2012 MY have the same issue.

I'm not trying to argue that the B+ fuse doesn't work - I have no idea if pulling that fuse would accomplish the same thing as pulling fuses #5 and #20. But would you rather remove the carpet lining from your trunk and pull a fuse OR open the lid to the fuse box in the engine bay and pull 2 fuses? It's more convenient to pull fuses #5 and #20 is all.
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